Niku-Sama

well never mind, the only thing that could be a pressure switch is on the side of the dryer and it has 4 connectors on it. its possible but i doubt its one. oh well what else you guys think?

hmm thats werid, when i plug me greens together the pump comes on and goes off over and over

owner before me converted to 134a now from what i have read the later models should have the hitachi a/c thats next to the power steering and the early models have the alternator next to the power steering right? well since mines such a freakshow any way being a 90 turbo with full time 4wd it aparently has the older style a/c, its not a hitachi style compressor it has the alternator next to the power steering so it may have this pressure switch after all.

correcto, if i unplug the relay fan no workie 2.7 this is on a 1990, wouldnt consider it early for these cars but i dont know how early is early on these. is this line your talking about on the a/c high pressure line or low pressure line. i've checked those connectors down there and everythings plugged in but i bet if this pressure switch is on the high side and theres too much pressure its probally triggering it so its on all the time. i am having an a/c problem and so far it seems the high side is sucking the pressure out of the low side, i have tried recharging it and the same thing happens. some one told me the expansion valve can cause the high side to suck the low dry and thus boosting high side pressure so i wouldnt be supprised if high is so higly charged in the off position that its triggering this switch. i think after i redo the connector (has become loose after all this diag) i am gonna turn the car on and have some one suck 134a out the high side and see if the fan turns off. what do you guys think? i will double check the pressure switch connectors tommorow, running out of energy/light right now and i need to call the fiance.

i cant stand california either. i suggest...move, before california falls off into the ocean

how are the plugs? pcv system clogged at all?

ok well the strange gets stranger. found some in the j-yard and swapped them in the parking lot and still nothing. noticed when i re installed the fan the connector to the fan got between the shroud and radiator and so i got it out, after i did the fan worked. pluged old relays back in, fan still works. now these plugs (fan power/rad switch) are plugs i had checked many many times over and over again and had now effect on operation or now. i jerkd on them while the fan was on and nothing. i returned the relays to the j-yard and got my 5 bucks back and the old relays are still working. only thing is the fan stays on now and doesent go off untill the key is off. before i returned the relays i tried them one by one and nothing made the fan go off. so now i have the oppisite problem fan stays on wont go off. i unplugged the rad switch and it still stays on so its not that. both sets of relays had the same out come and i used ones out of a newer car that had been replaced. there is a brown T connector below the rad switch and fan plug, its Brown with the one end jumped like it was something from the factory but it may not be, the wire in it is black with a white line, the harness end i cant tell because its right out of the harness up under the carbon canister

sweet i didnt kniow this company did that, power mirrors are the one option i want that i dont have, theres tons of em with power mirros in the j-yard too.

fan relay to blame for not comming on when the a/c is on?

isnt the clicking with the greens together the fuel pump cycling?

so ok the other day i noticed the electric cooling fan stopped again. if i jump the connector that comes off of the radiator switch it comes on but i got to thinkin when i try the A/C should the elecric fan come on as well or will a bad radiator switch keep it from kicking on? i'm going to go on the hunt for a new switch here in a moment but i thought when i turn the a/c on the electric fan should come on as well reguardless of engine temp.

your going to add power mirrors to your car when it didnt origonaly had it or am i missing something? i have been meaning to ask, if the car doesent have a piticular option like power mirrors is the wiring still there or does subaru not do stuff like that

you might check the junkyards for older datsun dizzys, hitachi is pretty much standard and you might find a compatable part. justa thought. if you go to the yard and find one that works you might be able to get new aftermarket for it still

i think your going the right way. start cheap. if atf doesent work try oil pump seals and look for other major leaks. if it still TODs then....get used to it or replace i guess. at the lube shop the owners of these subarus would just dump heavier oil, worked untill the oil became well used... you might try some lucas mabe. mine doesent TOD any more but lucas quieted up the over all running seeing how theyre loud any way.

theres good ol harbor freight. you comming to arlington tommorow?

sounds like they tried using a file and jamming it in the cylinder. or they tried the datsun thing and used scissors

i voted hatchback

nippon denso or bosch or that other brand that escapes me now? ninja edit: better yet what car/engine did it come off of?

rattle and "blown" rod? mmmkay, well a bad rod bearing could be possible, is it full of oil and such? you sure its not a TOD?

ok so i have had some time to drive it since i unplugged those lines and it is a bit better in terms of power. i still have a huge ammount of time from when i step on the gas and it takes off if i need to move in a hurry. it kicks into "POWER" mode and then it takes it a little bit before it takes off, i guess its waiting for the turbo to spool. its at 1040 miles today, tossed in a bit of lucas, subaru like lucas. alot quieter now. see if it'll slow the rear main leak a bit. i'm having a bit of a cash flow problem lately, the state ************ed up so i gotta call em and i am calling after a hiliday weekend. which really sucks because i was counting on getting the exhaust welded up before i head down south. about done with it though, fix the exhaust and fine tune some things for best milage/HP. idle speeds a bit low

i've had a MAF cause that problem, or a mis adjusted idle speed. is an '88 GL10 going to have a MAF or a AFM though?

thats way too low for any logging roads i know of

it looks like i wont be having a job by then so i'll be attendanding with my shapeless white brick. any one else going?

i dont think it looks too bad slammed like that, reminds me of a rabbit. you know those german things...but cooler (nicer)

most of mine were dried and crusty crap. i used a flat screw driver and scraped alot out and then used some super clean and sloched it arround untill it turns an orange brown and then took the hose and sprayed it out. you could start and the PCV and work your way back to the engine/intake one was blocked at a bend and i couldnt get the screw driver into it so i sprayed the super clean in it and let it sit and then i took the hose and presed it up aginst the end real hard so it wouldnt leak and it eventualy blew the junk out, didnt get it all but it was decent flowing when i was done. there were still some hoses to ddo but they werent as bad and they were in more difficult spots. of course you could replace em all too but that costs $$$ any one else have and ideas about the surging and the hard starting?