92_rugby_subie

Unfortunately I STILL don't know what my job is going to have me do (work none, half or full Friday) so I wont know when Im caravanning yet... Have at least a 2013 WRX with me as well

If you have the 88 GL (had to look at your profile) then you should have an EA82 I did my lifters with the engine still in the car... need to pull the valve covers off (might as well replace the seals and grommets while youre in there), remove the cam tower (and get some RTV to reseal those when you put it back together... pull the rocker arms (pretty important to keep these marked on cardboard as to where they went... lifters sometimes just pop out but might need slight help but they should pop out none-the-less, just be gentle... Then send them in to be rebuild... IIRC Mizpah is like $5 a lifter or $8 if you wanna just buy theirs. Edit: $4.50 if they rebuild yours, $6 to buy theirs -- Link -- http://mizpahprecision.com/pricing.htm When installing, use some assembly lube to hold the rocker arms to the lifters (you don't want them to fall) Then use Ultra Grey RTV (or equivalent sealant) and put it on the cam carrier, use torque specs of course, youll want to go to a dealer for the cam-tower O-rings, and while its off, clean the cam-tower of the oil residue and use a small toothpick (or equivalent) to clean the oil passages and reassemble... Using new seals and grommets would be wise. Since you have oil pressure issues with the TOD, Id also recommend replacing your oil pump or at least the mickey mouse seal and O-rings.

Im guessing too, that I should be taking certain parts off the other motor to get machined and stuff first? As in the heads will need to be machined for the new gaskets, I should probably send the lifters in to Mizpah to get rebuilt so I don't have the tick of death on the new motor. What is a good oil? I just switched to synthetic blend 10W-40 and have had some decent results with it not leaking and burning as much, but until the oil warms up I do get a little bit of ticking...

Since youre new to the Subaru scene and jumped in on a turbo... there are some things youll wanna know ASAP. Always premium fuel -- lower octane fuels can cause the car to run bad as well as motor damage Fully synthetic oil changes -- Subaru says you can go 7500 on them, my GFs 2013 WRX gets the oil changed at 5K intervals with Mobil1 for now. TUNES -- Pretty much 95% of mods to this car will need a tune, get yourself acquainted with your local tuner shops, youll need an accessport for many of them. The car is pretty "fragile" in a sense, that unlike a N/A motor, youll need to really take care of it to allow it to take a beating. Most mods will void your warranty if you still have one, so keep stock parts and always have a stock map on your accessport. Also, make sure you warm it up properly before driving it hard... exposing as much heat that the turbo gives out to a cold aluminum engine is asking for trouble. As was stated in your other thread, the R180 and 6 speed can handle the power better than a WRX transmission, so youll be okay for most mods. Next year my 2007 WRX will be sitting at 350-400AWHP but to take it reliably, Ill probably have a STi longblock in there, with 6 speed and R180 and be running E85 fuel. Also, you can create an account on NASIOC as many Impreza owners are on there with more insight on mods, precautions and all that jazz

I should have stated my questions better, but you guys have it correct. I want to make sure everything is going to fit with the options that I will have... I have an entire EA82 SPFI engine to work with, and I of course have the parts that are on my engine... Im just curious as to what I can build on the side with the spare motor to make sure that when the motor is built, theres very minimal down time (as I will be renting a car through my work at near $50 a day... Id rather start the engine swap process on a Saturday after work and hopefully have it done before I go to work again the following Tuesday. Is it possible to have an entire SPFI engine ready to go so I can just unbolt my carb-manifold and drop the new motor in? Will the SPFI disty work with the carb set-up? I also am not sure where Ill be fuel level wise on that day (as Im not planning on a specific time) so I could just use an octane booster right? and run premium for the first few weeks? Then plus and then regular? Also, wasn't thinking of re-building the SPFI motor, I have one longblock with a low compression in cylinder 4 shortblock, and then a known good shortblock so I was just going to swap it in, new gaskets and go... As rebuilding is an extra couple hundred bucks... and kind of a waste of time as Ill probably join the EJ crew next year when I buy my WRX

After nearly 35K and VERY rough driving on a busted HG, Im gonna assume that Ned needs his new engine built... He is a 1986 GL Sedan, carb'd of course (weber 32/36 DGEV) The donor engine is out of a 91/92 Loyale SPFI... and I have a few questions... Although maybe not even noticeable, I heard there is a slight bump in HP with using the SPFI engine with the carb manifold (bumps compression) --- IS THIS TRUE? If it is, and that is what I do, do I use the SPFI heads as well? Will my intake bolt right on to the SPFI? Provided all this is going according to plan, I need to swap the better SPFI block onto the other SPFI motor and build them on the side (while Ned still gets me to/from work) and so Im going to be doing HG anyway... I heard with the Legacy/Impreza/Forester models, using a fel-pro gasket set isn't ideal with some seals, but Ill probably order individual parts rather than a whole set.... Now, if all that goes well, my majority of parts orders will be for a 91/92 Loyale (90-94)... but would the gaskets for the intake be the same? What might I experience being different, the headers should be the same Im hoping, but I do have the Y-pipe from the Loyale if need be (eventually going to have a better UEL made by Sube101) I bring this up because I missed 4th somehow and hit 2nd at a high rate of speed and buried the RPM gauge and when I got home my coolant reservoir had boiled over and there was coolant under the carb as well... Neds temp has been sitting higher than I would like to... and the clutch is almost gone... So I plan to hit all 1000s of EA82 bugs that I have with one gigantic... stone? engine? what have you kind-of thing.

Rotate it 180 degrees... The Axle only goes on one way... if you tap it in and about 1/2-3/4 of the way it wont go anymore, its because its not lined up properly Youll wanna take your roll pin driver or drill bit or w/e youre using and tap it back out, pull the axle off, and turn it until the holes line up again, THEN stick it back on and the roll pin should go back in a lot easier... I usually use a drill bit that will clear with very little resistance or I mark the axle, either way works.

Im in love with these wheels. Next year when I buy the 07 WRX, Neds getting a new plan. EJ22 swap, rear discs, roof basket, custom front/rear bumpers, fog light overkill, 4 inch lift and bigger tires... he will be the camping/family fun vehicle

They are Allied Armament wheels, there are ones that have been remade by SOSFab but having had both, I actually like these better, they are offset better for street driving However for a lifted offroad rig, the SOSFab ones would be a better decision as it puts the wheels out a bit more... Sorry to post the same pic twice, but you can see the difference in the wheels: Here are the SOSFab versions of the wheel: You can see that on the 215 series tires I poked out A LOT... but its because the center piece of the wheel is flush all the way across... where as this is convex slightly so the wheel sits in more. Even the Peugeots were on 185 series tires and they poked out the same if not more than these AA wheels. AA wheels

They all look to be good, the green one seemed loose so I put another in (as I have a few spares) I guess I could replace the red one and black one too and hope that helps. I pulled the door panel off, everything connected and honestly looks new still... It wasn't even that dirty back there! So how do I test it?

Yikes, gotta tear apart the door panel? Is there another easy fix before I do that?

Traded wheels again... Missed the black look on my car, and I actually LOVE the way these fit and the way they look! Thanks CHRISGPZ! Also went 190 miles each way from Hillsboro to Seattle on ONE tank averaging 75 miles per hour (just over 3K rpms) Without further ado -- The stance I like, not poking out, but wider tires look GREAT (and Im not rubbing) 205/60/15s

My 86 GL broke... again This time its not crucial to running it seems.... my power door locks and windows aren't working at all... the light came on the dash "Door Lock" but went away again after I shut the car off and hasn't come back on... Checked under dash fuses, all appear to be good... EA82 sedan... any ideas? Would like to wash the filthy animal today...

That sir, is a kickass drawing... I wonder if this would catch on... they did make a Turbo Baja after all..

Where I would start (Im an old gen person, so Id be in your shoes if I had a 2013) is researching your engine. Find out what other models it comes in... should be a 2.0L IIRC which theres probably UEL headers for (even ebay knockoffs) and pretty decent resonator/muffler combos. See which models have the same engine and what mods have been done to them I have a glasspack on my car and its loud and obnoxious but at idle I have excellent rumble. Also know people with stock Imprezas from 2002-2007 that just run ebay UELs, catted piping to flowmaster/magnaflow mufflers

If you ever make it up to Portland, out in Gaston there is a Subaru graveyard... Johns Subaru Has LOADS of Subaru parts

I can do the replacement and all myself, but I cannot pressure test it or fix any leaks it may have....

Thanks Bennie! I actually am waiting on some funds to go do the radiator, I want to send it to a radiator shop and have it re-done, cleaned, pressure tested and all that... get new radiator cap... I have a brand new plastic end tank one, but I wanna use that ONLY when mines in the shop... don't trust plastic over metal haha

You don't have to be an Oregon resident at all I should have posted it here, but I completely forgot about posting it Im only lifted on tires... the 185/75/14 gave me quite a bit of ground clearance! But I cant brag too much, the stanced Impreza did cookies too and nobody got stuck (but I had a towrope in case of stickage)

My first time going on a massive Subaru cruise (that wasn't for false pretenses) Ned got done just in time! Right when the girlfriends Subaru went down too! Rearended 2013 WRX At the beach: Subarus for DAYYYZZZZ Backing Ned up for the big photo: The big photo (ignore the Heep the stole the limelight in the corner) DOUBLE ROWED Representing the ol school group (a smaller division of the big group) Looking good Mr Ned Some sliding pictures: Go have your fun BEFORE this happens (no ticket though, cool officer) Never turn your back on the ocean! Youll have to go save your expensive car! (My brothers is the white one) I plan to get another cruise going to Seaside OR again soon... maybe not 80+ cars like this one, but still one where we can have fun, Id love to see some old generations out there!!! Ill post an event as soon as I have it!

My EA82 has a lot of strange behavior... At least IMHO. I only have 1 fan, electric stock on my EA82, and I have wanted another to help keep it cool... so that's something I plan to do... Its not super hot here in Oregon, but it has hit 90s with 40-50% humidity a few times, and the temp gauge will hit about 65% of the gauge while sitting at a stop light... and the RPMs rise up... to about 1500, and sometimes I can get them to stay down by pull the e-brake and letting out the clutch as the RPMs drop to 1000 (yikes I know) and other times I think its my accelerator cable sticking because if I pull up on the pedal, they will drop ever so slightly down to about 1200... still leaves for some reason a higher RPM than when idling all other times. What do you guys do to keep the EA82 cool (besides EJ swapping it and throwing the EA into the ocean) Different coolant mixture? Dual fans? Cold air intake on a weber?

Well, in my post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/139013-neds-massive-repair-with-questions/ I experienced needing new tie-rods when I had mine apart... Hows your bank account? Id definitely plan on doing the wheel bearings, 6207 2RS C3 bearings are a great deal if you don't wanna get messy with grease (youll want a little bit anyway though, makes axle slide easier. With the noise, Id replace wear items... ball joint, wheel bearings, axle nut and cone washer, feel your tie-rod next time you have a chance, if it feels loose, replace it. As for materials, youll want some kind of grease/lubricant, itll make it a lot easier to slide the axle in the hub, make sure to clean all your surfaces before applying grease. Youll need new seals, inner and outer, perhaps not if you go with sealed bearings but I put mine in there because I figured it couldn't hurt. Check your brakes too, don't want those to fail... Use antiseize lubricant for putting things back together, I use it on the threads of bolts, of the tie-rod, on the inside of the hub that connects to the strut, as well as the strut...

For the alternator, look up the Maxima alternator upgrade... 90amp unit over the 50/55 amp one that comes stock in these cars

It is under warranty (or should be) take it in and have them go through it completely... If "nothing" found, take it to another shop and have them check it out... Long story short my parents Hyundai ate its brand new tires in 20K from them buying it new, they bought new ones, 21k later they were bad... we had heard a humming sound the whole time and the dealership told us it was nothing, took it to another shop, they replaced horrific wheel bearings in the rear where it was wearing down (FWD vehicle so the wear was really unusual on the rear) Cost almost 1000 to have it done plus the 900 in tires... sent the repair into Hyundai and said WTF... Got a check for 1900 and 25% off our next 5 services... Lesson... definitely have it checked out by the dealer or another shop, something is rubbing/out of alignment/loose or broken etc.. or you like roasting all four tires

I can lock them up from about 5mph to 0... but other than that, its slowing down, but Im still standing on the brake pedal... Gonna check for kinked/broken lines... if I don't find anything I guess Ill pay a shop to bleed them "properly" On a plus note.. SILENCE no clunks, feels smooth, tight and doesn't rattle around the neighborhood