suberdave

sorry the Z4 ECU is the stock ECU the ViPEC is a full standalone ECU. Pics on my webpage. http://www.suberdave.com/subaru/Leone/index.htm -=Suberdave=-

finaly got some numbers with the ViPEC. had some cracked coiles and a few other small issues, then with the weather i couldnt get back to Drift Office till today to get my "Final" tune. Bob and Bill are both awesome! and did an awesome job with my car... here is the setup: 96 EJ20G TD05h FMIC STI injectors and coil packs blitz boost controler set to ~16PSI full 3" trubo back exhaust Blue is With the Z4 ECU RED is with the ViPEC -=Suberdave=-

The EA stuff is the same. its just longer... if you need i have a EJ shifter you can have. its from the 3dr i built. i used an EA linkage just shortened it. -=Suberdave=-

i have an RX trans and LSD in my lifted 2.2l wagon. i have pulled the 3.9 D/R apart and it looks like the low gear could be swaped out and put into the RX box fairly easy. i will be trying it soon. you will love having AWD. it makes takeing off from stops, so much easier. -=Suberdave=-

bump for some more sweet subaru action!!! -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

1988 Subaru Turbo Wagon (Built 100% by Suberdave) !!! MOD LIST !!! EJ20G from 96 WRX (45K miles at time of swap, 35K since swap) WRX 4.111:1 Trans w/ LSD R160 Rear diff ViPEC ECU 550cc STI Side feed Injectors 05 STI Ignition Coil mod APS Blow Off Valve Blitz Electronic Boost control Regulator 5 lug swap (front: WRX rear: XT6) Welwood 4pot front calipers w/ 12” rotors XT6 rear disk brakes Nissan 200sx rear calipers (Rear parking brake) Tein Flex coilovers W/ EDFC (from 2005+ Legacy 17" wheels w/ 205/40/R17 tires 255Lph Welbro Fuel Pump XT6 Mirrors RX body kit Full custom 3” turbo back exhaust eBay down-pipe and flex up-pipe Godspeed FMIC XT6 sway bars (24mm) front and rear HKS turbo timer Nardi Torino steering wheel Momo titanium shift knob made 225 AWHP with stock ECU and before some of the upgrades. i still have a little tuneing to do with the new ECU but looking to be close to 250 AWHP!!! -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

looks like standard GL EA82 brakes to me... -=Suberdave=-

RCW 46.37.390 Mufflers required — Smoke and air contaminant standards — Definitions — Penalty, exception. </B>(1) Every motor vehicle shall at all times be equipped with a muffler in good working order and in constant operation to prevent excessive or unusual noise, and no person shall use a muffler cut-out, bypass, or similar device upon a motor vehicle on a highway. (2)(a) No motor vehicle first sold and registered as a new motor vehicle on or after January 1, 1971, shall discharge into the atmosphere at elevations of less than three thousand feet any air contaminant for a period of more than ten seconds which is: (i) As dark as or darker than the shade designated as No. 1 on the Ringelmann chart, as published by the United States bureau of mines; or (ii) Of such opacity as to obscure an observer's view to a degree equal to or greater than does smoke described in subsection (a)(i) above. ( No motor vehicle first sold and registered prior to January 1, 1971, shall discharge into the atmosphere at elevations of less than three thousand feet any air contaminant for a period of more than ten seconds which is: (i) As dark as or darker than the shade designated as No. 2 on the Ringelmann chart, as published by the United States bureau of mines; or (ii) Of such opacity as to obscure an observer's view to a degree equal to or greater than does smoke described in subsection ((i) above. © For the purposes of this subsection the following definitions shall apply: (i) "Opacity" means the degree to which an emission reduces the transmission of light and obscures the view of an object in the background; (ii) "Ringelmann chart" means the Ringelmann smoke chart with instructions for use as published by the United States bureau of mines in May 1967 and as thereafter amended, information circular 7718. (3) No person shall modify the exhaust system of a motor vehicle in a manner which will amplify or increase the noise emitted by the engine of such vehicle above that emitted by the muffler originally installed on the vehicle, and it shall be unlawful for any person to operate a motor vehicle not equipped as required by this subsection, or which has been amplified as prohibited by this subsection. A court may dismiss an infraction notice for a violation of this subsection if there is reasonable grounds to believe that the vehicle was not operated in violation of this subsection. This subsection (3) does not apply to vehicles twenty-five or more years old or to passenger vehicles being operated off the highways in an organized racing or competitive event conducted by a recognized sanctioning body. -=Suberdave=-

Awesome Brat!!! -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

good luck with the build... lets see who gets to the 6sp swap first... then we can shair info. PM sent -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Other/photos/a-177480736/p-75237577.htm looks a bit like the one SJR did -=Suberdave=-

my guess is that the timing jumped a tooth. ide pull the front covers, and check it out... -=Suberdave=-

awesome!!!, looks good, keep up the good work... -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

i know when putting the 6MT into an EJ car, they can use a 4EAT shaft. so i would assume that if you were to put a 6MT into a EA82 car you could use a 4EAT EA shaft. but when i put the EJ 5MT in the EA car the shaft has to be shortened 55mm. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

if your engine is non-turbo it should be 3.9. so the D/R will bolt right up. and you just need to get the stick with the trans. no need to drill another hole. and if it is a 3.7 ratio it will have 25 spline front shafts whereas all 3.9's will be 23. -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

that looks like a lot of work just to avoid 10 mins with a welder... -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

i have done this same thing on my 87 GL-10, and want to clear a few things up. not to cause any problems. but a 87 GL-10 will not be FT4WD nor will it have the 4EAT. the 4EAT did not come out in the GL's till 89. thus the GL-10 has a 3AT and will be PT4WD. witch is a good thing since you want to swap to a M/T. because the 3AT turbo auto has 23 spline axels just like your D/R M/T. the auto axel ratio will be 3.7:1 and you will need to find a 3.9:1 diff to go with your D/R. your spedo cable will need to be swaped out but any M/T gl cable will work. you will need to find a pedal box and clutch cable. and the front section of rear drive shaft from a manual trans. you will have to jump the ECU or jump the gear select switch so the ECU thinks its in P or N. now if you want your ceruse control to work you will also have to wire in a clutch switch so it will cancel when you push in the clutch. (this is a must or your engine will rev to the moon when you push in the clutch, after forgetting to turn of the CC). i will be watching this thred or PM me if you have any other questions. -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

did they ever have any power? just kidding, if it only dose it when you open the throtle plates 100%, check your TPS for a flat spot. also check fuel pressure. put a gauge on it and drive it with it taped to the windsheld. this way you can see if you are loosing pressure under WOT. i have replaced many fuel pumps (on nonSubarus) that had plenty of pressure at low RPM's but did non pump enough volume at higher RPM's or under load. also make sure you dont have a dirty air filter, or a dirty MAF. if you suspect a bad MAF, (i think 87.5 is hot wire) get some MAF cleaner and clean it out. just a few thoughts. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

I hate to say it but I think your wrong... The cylinder # has nothing to do with the driver. The #1 cylinder on any engine foreign or domestic, is the one closest to the front of the engine, closest to the radiator. It should be the right front cylinder, or passenger side front on any Subaru. Note: right and left on a car is always when you are sitting in the driver’s seat. Never when looking under the hood. -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

like i said the ID was fine, the OD was close to 3/16" to large. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

i think the set i have are for brimbo plates. ill bring them they may work. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

the rings you sent me a while back are to big. i hope these ones are smaller. the ID is right but the OD is to large for legacy backing plates. if they are i will call dibs on atleast one set if not two. -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

well the only EJ's that have 2 O2 sensors are OBDII engines. since this engine is OBDI it dose not have a post cat O2. one bung is for the O2 sensor, and the other bung is for an EGT sensor. or at least thats how it works on both the EJ20s i have done... -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

looks like an EJ20K. most likely from 1996-98. should be 280HP. good luck with the swap, if you have any questions shoot me a PM. i may be able to help. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

i want to know more about the lowered wagon in the back. man that thing is slammed... more pics!!! but realy that lifted wagon looks awesome... -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com