suberdave

i was wondering if Subaru ever made an EA AWD trand with no diff lock or D/R? the reason i ask is a friend of mine just bought a trans from a JDM importer. i looked it over real good and it has some differences from any trans i have seen. first off it is a turbo trans. 25 spline front stubbs it has no vacuume diaphram for diff lock nor dose it have the lever that the diff lock would pull. also the transfer case is larger like a AWD trans... im stumped. did Subaru ever make an EA AWD trans... -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

that works too. but on the webpage it recomends running it from a boot disk, this way the program has 100% of the CPU and memory, and the program can update faster... -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

you have to burn it as a backup not just an ISO as a data file on a CD. i used NERO 7.* and just burned as a backup and it put two files on the CD. then i put it in the rom drive and start up the comp, and it boots from it... -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

booted right from the bootable CD -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

well i made one and tryed to use it on my EJ20G, no luck. it gives me an error and says the ROM is unrecognized... but i will see what i can do about that. i would love this thing to work on my car... as i see it. if it works on the EJ22t it should work on the EJ20G. the ecu pinouts are 90% the same and so is most of the wiring. well the code is opensorce so i will see if i can get it to work... -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

that is awesome... i will have to try that. now i just wish i wouldnt have striped that connector out of my harness when i did it. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

I like Tex also have done three EJ swaped EA cars. two with EJ20G's and EJ hydrolic trans, and one EJ22 N/A with EA RX AWD D/R trans. the two using EJ trans swaps i used WRX hydrolic clutch setups. with a N/A trans i may keep the EA trans, but with any turbo swap i would go with the EJ trans. the hydro clutch setup is not all that hard to install. if you can do the engine swap and get all the electrical hooked up, then you should have no problem getting the clutch master installed. the main reason i would go with the EJ trans swap is for the better clutch and flyweel setup. even with the XT6 clutch setup if you get 200 WHP the XT6 clutch is going to be at its limit of holding force... with a hydro clutch setup the holding force is much greater. my $0.02 -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

first off if you get the stuff, its not all that hard. for the bolt up. if you get an engine crossmember from a trubo XT or a turbo GL and put that in, the engine will bolt right up to the crossmember. then you will need a bit of fab on the trans crossmember. unless you can find a crossmember from an XT6 than that will bolt right up also. the rear diff from a 04 WRX is a R160 diff just like the XT, so there is no problem there. as far as axels you will need to use 25 spline Turbo XT/GL axels up front and the rears may have to be a hybread. so now thats done... easy right... now comes the wiring. it will not be easy to hook up an OBDII ECU into a non-OBDII car. due to many sensors your XT will not have. that will set the CEL on and may put the ECU into limphome mode. best choice would be a standalone. this way you will not have to use any of those sensors you dont have... Good Luck -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

i have a Tein Flex coilover setup on my EA82 wagon. it is for an 05+ legacy. the rears fit vary easy and just need the EA82 tophat added, but the bottom fit. the fronts only work if you have 5lug hubs. if you go with 2wd XT struts, you should be fine. just make sure the springs arnt to large. or they will rub the body. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

im running the Walbro 255l. work awesome and they fit right in place of the stock pump... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Walbro-Fuel-Pump-255-INLINE-UNIVERSAL-GSL-392-External_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33555QQihZ020QQitemZ300150890162QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

dont know if anyone else noticed but why do you have two different licence plates? the front #'s are different than the rear #'s. other that that... any word on the progress? -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

so you used the brembo rear calaper but the XT6 rotor and hub. this means you have no parking brake, right??? not a huge deal. that is Awesome. if you have any pics of how you did the rear. i would love to see. i am getting ready to do somthing simaular on my wagon. i have the parts just need the time. by the way... you do awesome work!!! looks good!!! -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

look like some nice big brembos... did you do anything with the master when you did this? and have you done anything with the rears yet? i have some 4 pot welwoods on the front of my wagon and i feel that the stock master dose not push eough fluid to get the full braking power out of the large calipers and rotors... -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

this was posted over at the Impreza board, from a board member that has gone and was posting some "info he would have liked to know before he went to the class" this i agree with 100% and like i said. everytime i am going to run my car hard i will spend the $ for the high oct fuel... -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

when you go to get one. make sure you get the right one. look in the picture book and point at it before you order it. i went to 3 different parts stores and they all had the EA81 core listed for all subarus from like 81 till 94. i had to order one for an XT6 to get the right one... here is a pic so you dont have to pull your whole dash apart to find out that it took a week to order the wrong one. then have to wate 2 more days to overnight the right one. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

First off I don’t think I was tossing money into my gas tank. I am using the JDM ECU and it is tuned for 100oct. normally I run 92-93oct. but I am not running at 100+mph for 20-25 minuets at a time. I feel that buying race gas is cheep insurance for detonation. I’m not trying to start a debate. But I think you have it all wrong. The reason you run higher octane is so you can run your timing more advanced. The higher the octane rating the less volatile the fuel is and the harder it is to ignite. This you can run more advance and higher compression without detonation. When I run race gas in my tank my car runs much better and has better response. I don’t think for a minute that I wasted any money. And next time I go out to the track I will put race gas in it again. Just like I did this time and like I will every time I go... -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

i have 4piston welwood calipers and 12" disks in front, and i do have stainless lines. i didn't have any problem with brake faid. just a bit of a soft pedel due to small diameter master cyl. my GL cyl is only .8125" diameter, witch is fine to push the single piston brakes. but an STI has a 1.0625" diameter master to push the Brimbo's... i have got an STI master on the way... the 118 speed limit is a speed limiter, not RPM limiter. RPM's were only about 5800 and pedal was only at maybe 20%. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

i took the class today, all i can say is IT IS AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!! if you can, take the calss. the track is awesome, i learned things about my car that i never knew. unfortantly my car with the EJ20G and Z4 ECU tops out at 118mph. but thats about all the faster i want to go anyhow... for now. well i put on a total of 93 miles at the track 14 of witch were the cone training stuff and the rest of them were on the track. total of 3 different heets at about 10-12 laps on a 2.25 mile track. at about 2 mins a lap thats just shy of 1.5 hours of track time total. and 1.5 hours of watching the other group on the track. went through $70.00 of gas @ $8.25 a gallon. and totaled just over 10 miles a gallon. thats less than half of what i normaly use on the street... added some ware and tare on the car. as far as tires they got beat up a bit. but they have 2 auto X's on them and about 20K street miles. but they still have lots of tred. just a bit of chunking, mostly on the right front. and brakes are just fine. even with hard brakeing for 100 miles, they are just fine. however i did find out that with the new welwoods in the front, going from a single piston caliper to a 4 piston caliper, the stock master just dosent push enough brake fluid under a hard stop. never had any problems under normal driving, but when i tryed to do a panic stop (during one of the drills not on the track) from 70 mph, i could not lock up the brakes right away... not locking up the brakes is a good thing. but if i cant lock them up, that means i am not getting the full braking power out of them. and trust me when going into turn 2 at just shy of 120 mph i need all the stoping power i can get. ill try to get some pics up and post them soon, i also have some video, but i have to rip it off of DVD first... over all - well worth the time and money!!!! -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

as far as suspension. the only options for the stock struts are some cheep coilovers from Ebay. or to find stuff to swap out the suspension for XT6 suspension. then you have 5X100 wheels, and Impreza / Legacy struts, this opens up a whole line fo options. for that engine. many people have fixed them up and gotten some good #'s as far as horsepower. but they always have head gasket problems. for that if you want to get lots of horsepower you have many swap options. from the EJ line of cars... 2.0 Turbo 2.2L 2.2L Turbo 2.5L 2.5L Turbo... check out my webpage for many pictures... -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

here is my car... its a wagon not an RX but the wheels / tires fit the same. five lug swap, with 7X17" wheels with 40mm offset, lowered with Tien Flex coilovers. 205/40/17 tires... almost 20K on them. only bent rim was from a curb in the snow... no fender rolling or triming. they fit just like they should. they wont tuck up under the fender, so i cant lower it much more. but with the 4.111:1 EJ trans the spedo is close enough not to matter... -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

thats alright, you can use my pics.... -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

Jellef, sounds like you may have a slightly blown head gasket. when you put the engine under a lot of stress, it blows combustion gasses into the cooling system. at idle or under minamal load it dosen't. go get your self a combustion gas tester. they dont cost much. you put it into your radiator when the car is running and try to pull gasses through the rad cap. if the fluid turns from blue to yellow... then its head gasket time. if you drove the car 175 miles this way. and it didnt overheat under light load, i would think your heads and block are fine. but check them when you have them out... but if the car was mine. i would swap that pig out and put a real engine in there... shoot me a PM if you have any questions. im not to far away... -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

I dont know. i had a 2000 Volvo V70R. and i would take my Subaru over that thing any day of the week... http://www.suberdave.com/volvo/volvo.htm it was more comfortable, but was an auto, and a big brick to drive... Subaru Wagon FTW!!! -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

here is the sheet... it got wet when it started to rain... -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

well i just got back... here are my numbers. 225.5 AWHP @ 6605 210.6 AWTQ at 5018 and my 1/4 sucked with 15.1@96.6 reaction time of 0.871 i ran faster than that when i was on the track... -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com