suberdave

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I like it... when you are ready to put the R180 rear diff in that thing. let me know ill build you some hybrid axle shafts. or sale you the parts you need to build your own. see ===> http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2039248&highlight=suberdave and http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2048240&highlight=suberdave that thing will be one sweet ride... however you are going to want some better brakes on that than just the XT6 brakes. talk to me about putting the turbo leg brakes on it. and the 6 speed trans will not fit into a 86 trans tunnel, without modification. but im sure it can be done. it fits just fine in an 87.5+ GL. i will be watching this thread. will be a sweet build. -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

I too have been working on a new project that i hope to finish before the show... -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

i am doing the same thing right now. you are right the OEM float sensors range from 2.5 Ohms to ~47 Ohms. each. they are wired in series. so this will send 5-7 Ohms empty to 95-97 Ohms full. what i am doing is running a GM 0-90 Ohm sensor with a 5 Ohm resistor wired in line to produce 5 Ohms empty to 95 Ohms full... -=Suberdave=-

I will not argue with anyone on the internet, but it has been proven. it was done by Blaise pascal. it is called pascal's principle or pascal's law. it is the basics of everything to do with hydraulics. GD i normaly agree with everything you say, but to say this is conjecture is like saying that gravity is conjecture unless you can see the numbers... -=Suberdave=-

the way Pascal's laws work. with Hydraulic Principles if you increase the bore size on your MC you will decrease the pressure applied at your calipers. so unless you also increase your piston volume at your wheel cylinders or calipers, this will make brakeing more diffacult and will give you less brakeing power. however you will have to move the brake pedal less to move the brakes pads into contact with the rotors/drums. however if you increase the piston size on your calipers, Say install dual piston calipers from a WRX onto your GL, but do not change your master cylinder you will have a very low pedal due to the fact that you will have to move the MC piston much more to move enough fluid to move the larger pistons... i hope this makes since. if not see this. http://www.engineering.com/Library/ArticlesPage/tabid/85/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/214/Pascals-Law.aspx -=Suberdave=-

I love my Gen III's... I have had many. here are a few that i like, all built by me some i still have some i have sold... here are a few pics. more can be found on my webpage www.suberdave.com First Car Body: 1988 Subaru GL-10 Wagon: still have dont think i will ever sale. Engine: 2005 USDM EJ257 STi block W/ JDM EJ20K STi Heads Second car Body: 1987 Subaru GL 3dr Coupe: Sold just monthes after finishing. Engine: 1993 JDM EJ20G RA Third Car Body: 1987 Subaru GL-10 Wagon: sold to buy new trans for my Wagon. Engine: 1992 Subaru Legacy 2.2L Next Project Body: 1987 GL 3dr Coupe: just bought for summer project. Engine: TBD... but it will be something fun... -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

it is an 87, and it is FWD. however it will not be FWD when i am done with it. but being an 87 where i live, it will not have to be tested for emissions. -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

this will be my new toy. it will not be FWD for long. and i have a body kit and 5 lug for it also. should be lots of fun... -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

here she is. runs and drives. almost no rust. and no major body damage. i say WIN!!! -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

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the stuff i had came off of a 5 lug car. i dont know what the differance in spaceing is on the 4 lug rotors... may have to check into that. -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

Cyfun if you want some calipers that will work for a rear ebrake shoot me a PM. i have the calipers that i was running on my car for a few years, they work just fine. i took them off when i upgraded to brembo brake calipers... i have everything you need for the rear but the XT6 hubs. or if you just need the calipers and brake cables thats fine also. -=Suberdave=-

it is not odd years test on odd years any more. since they changed the rules to cars dont need to be tested the first 5 years or after 25 years. so if you bought a car in 2005 then the first test date would be 2010. thus makeing it odd year even test year. and yeah the 25+ rule is state wide. not county wide. i have the WA state emissions book if you want to know any more info. i am a WA state emissions certified technition. i have taken the class and recirtified 3 times now. -=Suberdave=-

pull the inner joint off. then find a pipe that the shaft will fit into and just a bit longer. put the axle in the pipe with the outter joint faceing up and slam it into the ground. the force will be perfict all the way around the joint and the joint will pop right off. just make sure it dosnt fly off or hit the ground. sounds a little redneck but it works. i have hit them with large hammers till i was blue in the face with no luck. the old pipe trick works every time. see youtube -=Suberdave=-

i added a 3 wire heated O2 sensor on my MPFI turbo GL. i took the cat out of the down pipe and my O2 went flat at idle and would not pass WA emissions. i put a heated sensor in and it passes emissions without any issues. -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

if you already have your 2012 tabs than you will never have to pass another emissions test... ever... but if you still have your 2011 tabs. you will have one more... in Washington state, there is no inspection, if it passes the sniffer you will get your tabs. now if it fails then you will not be able to get it to pass unless you have all the OEM emissions equipment still in working order. however that is not always true eather. many shops will just take your $150 and attempt a repair and grant you a waiver. -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

I have a compleat STi Drivetrain in my 88 GL-10 Wagon. I would not trade it for an STi ever. anyone can go down and buy an STi. and drive it down the road and it looks just like every other STi and WRX (W/ STi badges) on the road. Now is it the best way to spend $10-15K. probably not. but it sure is a hellofalot of fun... Just $0.02 from someone that has done it more than once and would not think twice about doing it again... -=Suberdave=-

there are 2 different sizes of shafts that came on the GL's. i beleave they are 7/8" and 1" the smaller of the two will fit right into the inner cup of Legacy shafts. you just have to check spline count. but i do have an extra set of the races that i used when i mated my JDM WRX LSD R160 to a set of XT6 shafts. pull your axles apart and count the splines and i can tell you if they will work or not... -=Suberdave=-

I put JDM STI seats in my GL\L series\Leone... I just pulled both seats apart, and used the frame and rails from the stock seat, now i have STI seats with higth adjustment...

you could go and get a speed sensor from the tranny of a newer EJ car, and wire it up to give the signal to the ECU. of course your spedo will not work at all. but you wont get limp mode... im not sure if you speedo is working now or not, this may not matter...

I have thought about this many times... i even have a set of projectors in the garage. glad to see that it works.

you can always go to the junkyard, find a car with an auto trany. and take the whole front section of the brake lines. they all unbolt at unions, and it is super easy to swap. no more hill holder...

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here are some pictures of how i put Rear Brembos on my GL. it would be the same for Legacy or Impreza rear disk onto any GL. but like Tex said. its finding the rear hub that is the hard part. they are not easy to find. http://wordpress.suberdave.com/?page_id=59