Fairtax4me

Awesome! Thanks for the part numbers and the size of the o-ring as well! Amazon sells the o-rings in packs of 12 so you practically get a lifetime supply in one order!

It connects to a nipple on the crossover pipe a few inches from the ECT sensor. Royal pain to get that end of the hose on with the manifold on. It's somewhat easier if you remove the IACV.

Does anyone know the width (diameter) for the factory fog lights (the big round ones) on the 96-99 Outbacks and 00-04 Outbacks? I'm trying to find better replacements for the "fog" lamps I put on my 96, (because they're not actual fog lamps, and they suck in the fog) without breaking the bank on Hella or PIAA. I've found some round lamps that are for 00-04 Outback that have an actual fog lamp pattern in the reflector, but I can't for the life of me figure out how wide they are?

How many reports of failures have you found during all of your searching? Generally if people are dissatisfied with a product they heard about or bought online, they will complain about it online. People are also much more likely to start a new thread or update an old one if they have a problem with a part they installed.

Have to fill the block through the upper radiator hose before fillin the radiator. If there is a bleeder screw on the upper corner opposite of the cap, remove it and slowly pour in coolant until it starts coming out of the bleed hole. Cap that off as soon as coolant starts coming out, put another splash in the radiator if it needs it, then start the engine.

There are several other companies that do Subaru cams but they're typically very expensive and aimed toward the turbo engines. (WRX and STI) Google can find them. Delta has a good reputation, I wouldn't think twice about running a set of camshafts welded by them.

I've always seen it the other way, speedometer reads slightly faster than a GPS. I've also found that some speedometers dont read accurately compared to the speed signal input that the ECU gets. For instance, my 96 Legacy L, before the lift kit when I was running stock sized 185/75/14 tires, the speedometer read dead on 70 mph, but ECU indicated vehice speed was 68, and GPS indicated speed was 66.

Check the fusible link at the front of the underhood fuse box. It looks like a wire looped over with spade connectors on the ends. They burn under the insulation and you may not see any damage just by looking. Pull it and it will break if its burned.

Mine would always set after two drives of more than about 10 miles. Usually I would reset the code, drive to school, then it would set on the drive home. When I was only driving 3 miles back and forth to work every day, it would not set for over a week sometimes.

The "window blind" effect on the smooth side is normal. Can't see what you're pointing at on the toothed side. Unless a chunk is missing its probably fine.

Which idler failed? The tensioner idler (large smooth one) bolts to a bracket that bolts into the block. Remove 2 bolts and the bracket pops off. Grab a "new" one from a junkyard. The toothed idler bolts onto the water pump. New pump, new threads, new mounting boss.

Most likely those are coming on because of low battery voltage. I would have the battery tested and possibly add a battery warmer to keep the battery voltage from dropping due to the cold. Battery should be under warranty. Take it to the dealer and leave it overnight and have them test it in the morning.

I've replaced several of them that were leaking. I drive a flat head screw driver into the side of the hump in the middle to pry them out. Use a large socket to drive the new seal in.

Top mounts may be different. As for length, I can't say between Impreza and legacy. Legacy struts are almost the same length AWD vs FWD.

Let me clarify. When you use more than 60/40 antifreeze to water, the antifreeze is less able to dissipate heat. Antifreeze has to be mixed with water so that it transfers heat more efficiently. Using 100% antifreeze will cause overheating because the antifreeze can't get rid of heat fast enough. In the range between 60/40 and 40/60 the heat dissipation really isn't affected enough to matter for most engines. Mixing 70/30 antifreeze to water WILL cause the engine to run hotter than normal, and could possibly cause the fans to come on, then not be able to turn off because the coolant temp will not go back below the fan cut-off temp.

When a wheel bearing takes 15 minutes to remove I can fully understand replacing in pairs. But a Subaru bearing generally takes at least 2 hours in a shop. 3 hours or more sometimes for a home mechanic. Failures don't typically occur at the same time, and often people end up having repeat failure of the same bearing before any other bearings need to be replaced.

What year?

Considering that the O2 sensor needs to be about 600°F in order to operate, yes, the cold could very well be a factor in that code.

Can you post the actual P0xxx code Ferox? Code definitions can vary depending on which scanner you use.

When its warm the engine turns over but it just won't start? That's usually due to a bad Engine coolant temperature sensor. The sensor fails and is telling the computer the engine is cold all the time so it gets too much fuel and floods the engine.

95 could have either MAF or both, MAP and MAF. My 95 2.2 auto wagon had both. My 95 MT fwd sedan has only MAF. Passenger strut tower there is a little bracket with two dohickies on it. One is a small squarish block with a vacuum nipple sticking off the bottom, 3 wire plug. That's the MAP sensor. The dohickie right next to it is a solenoid that switches between engine vacuum and atmospheric pressure. Subaru calls it a "pressure sources switching solenoid valve". On some cars it may also have a vacuum line to the evap system. On those it will switch between engine and evap pressure. Usually when you get a p0106 its because of a broken vacuum hose going from the intake manifold over to the PSSSV. The vacuum setups vary. Sometimes it runs straight to the manifold, sometimes it runs to a T with one side to the manifold and the other to the FPR at the back end of the fuel rail on the passenger side. If the hood on your car is the original, there is a vacuum/emissions hose routing diagram that will show you the proper routing of the hoses. Old vacuum hoses get brittle and are likely to break in very cold weather, do a thorough check of those and make sure none are broken or loose. In about the middle of the line running from the engine to the PSSSV there is a little white or black filter. The filter is supposed to keep moisture and fuel vapor from getting to the MAP sensor. That filter can sometimes clog, or if its saturated with moisture it can freeze, and will block vacuum to the Map sensor. Remove the line from the PSSSV end and try to blow through it. A little bit of air should pass. If none passes the filter is clogged. Ditch the filter and you should be good to go. They don't cost much from Subaru, so if you want to replace it you can, but I've run my car for about 5 years now with out it. 90 may be similar but I'm not sure. If the 90 has a MAP sensor, its likely to be the same sensor at the least. MAP sensor failures are pretty rare. Usually its the vacuum hoses. Sometimes there is a wiring problem like a mouse got to it or the wiring chafed. I had a P0106 for several years and finally concluded the ECU was bad. Replacing the ECU finally made the code to away. It never made a difference in the way the engine ran, I just finally got tired of staring at that yellow light on the dash. "CKT" is an abbreviation for "Circuit".

If you surface the heads yourself you don't need to disassemble them. But you do want to find a small plug to keep grit out of the oil feed hole for the camshaft and rockers. A dab of heavy grease might do the trick. Just be sure to thoroughly clean any grit from the feed port afterwards.

Interesting read, thanks for posting the link. So it appears all you need is a material with surface capacitance roughly similar to that of human skin... Find a body somewhere, skin it, paste the skin to the seat, then put your cushions over it! Easy! Kidding! Don't skin anybody please! That's pretty creepy to think about... Like the article said, a laptop sitting on the seat may enable the system, but a wet body (even a wet passenger) will not enable the system. I think an electrical device could be rigged to fool the system. A low voltage/ low level current run through a sheet of copper or aluminum, or a flat coil of copper wire might work. Cover it with a layer of denim or other material that pants may be made of. I always like the low tech approaches though. Somewhere out there there must be a material (rubber/plastic/synthetic) that has capacitance similar to a human. I wanna say Mythbusters did an episode on the effects of electricity through people (busting myths about electrocution) and used dummy's made from some kind of rubbery stuff that was suppose to have similar electrical properties to a real person.

At least he understands the way the system works. His idea that the cooling system causes head gasket failures is out of line though. This type of cooling system design is intended to regulate coolant temp in a much more even manner and prevent head gasket problems. Most aluminum block/aluminum head engines these days use a cooling system design similar to this. In the days of old, the engine warms up the coolant and the thermostat opens for a little while until cool coolant from the radiator makes its way up through the block. Then the thermostat closes until the now cold coolant in the engine warms up to the operating temp of the thermostat. It opens again and the cycle repeats itself. Hot, cold, hot, cold, hot... Eventually, if you sit still long enough, the coolant temp levels out and the back and forth smooths out. But once you start driving the process starts all over again. The engine temp changes along with coolant temp. So the engine is also going back and forth heating and cooling, heating and cooling. The Subaru system eliminates this back and forth cycle by mixing hot coolant from the heater core with the incoming cold coolant from the radiator. The engine warms up to 170° quickly, and the thermostat opens slightly, just enough to maintain a steady temperature that will slowly and evenly continue to rise. Eventually the whole cooling system will warm to the same temperature, and the thermostat will be wide open at 190°F. When you start driving or the cooling fans turn on and air flow over the radiator cools the coolant coming into the engine, the thermostat closes slightly but the 190° operating temperature is maintained because of the coolant flow from the heater core. This indicates coolant temp at the sensor was above the fan turn on temp which is around 200°F. For the fans to turn off coolant temp must then drop below 194°F. This can be either due to low coolant level or in very cold weather can be a sign of a partially clogged heater core. I've also seen this caused by improper ratio of coolant to water, usually more than 60/40 coolant to water.

My guess is the device you have sits up too high on the seat bolsters and doesn't put any (or maybe just not enough) weight on the occupant weight detection sensor in the bottom of the seat. There are also weight sensors in the back part of the seat on some new vehicles so the occupant detection system can tell if there is a person in the seat, or just a box or heavy bag which will not put weight against the rear of the seat. In that case both sensors need to see a certain amount of weight for the passenger airbag to be enabled. The best thing you could try is put a separate block of heavy foam under the special cushion. Something thick enough to make up the space difference between the top of the bolsters and the center of the seat. Go to a fabric store and get a section of foam roughly that thick and cut it to fit in the center of the seat between the bolsters and that will place her weight on the center of the seat where the sensor is, rather than on the bolsters. Cut another section to put behind her lumbar support if the bottom section doesn't work by itself. It shouldn't cost much, so if it doesn't work you're not out a bunch of money. As far as I know, yes, the drivers airbags will always be active. Occupant detection systems are designed mostly to prevent unnecessary deployment of airbags (passenger, side, rear airbags) when there are no passenger occupants to protect. Airbags are expensive, and having 4 go off vs just one (for the driver) can make the difference between a totaled car and a repairable one. Airbags also tend to have a fairly violent and LOUD deployment. They can send things flying. Say you have a box of stuff, or a bag of groceries in the front seat. You don't want those bouncing off of a deploying airbag and flying toward you.