Fairtax4me

If the check engine light is on there is a code stored in the cars ECU. You need to get the code scanned. Most parts stores will scan codes for free. Post up the code number here and we can give more advice. If the check engine light is Blinking, that indicates a condition that can cause severe damage to the catalytic converters. Those are very expensive to replace, so its best not to drive the car if possible.

I tested a 25 ECU from a 97 GT on my 96 L 2.2 and didn't notice any difference in the way the car ran other than It would idle too high on startup, and I got codes for the EGR (which my car doesn't have). If you want to try an ECU, they changed the pinout in 98. 95-97 should swap with each other. 98-99 swap with each other.

There's a pinned thread for endwrench articles at the top of the page.

Bubbling is a typical sign of head gasket failure. Is this a DOHC or SOHC 2.5?

Hydraulic Lash Adjuster Pull the timing cover and visually check the tensioner with the engine running. If it's making the noise it will be bouncing up and down like crazy.

Merry Christmas everybody!

Id agree with the bad tensioner theory. The tensioner on that engine is finicky and fails fairly often.

Did you verify the connections on the starter are tight and the start wire didn't fall off while you were putting things back together? Checked the ground connection on the engine? Did you check the fusible link in the under-hood fuse box? The one that looks like a wire.

The igniter only controls halves of the coil, front half and rear half. The coil always fires the plugs in pairs. Front two then rear two. It can not fire one plug idividually. The igniter cannot make the coil fire one plug idividually. If you have one cylinder with no spark, it's either the spark plug or the wire going to that cylinder. You have new plugs so we can check those off the list. If swapping wires side to side, and the misfire stays on the same cylinder, it could be an internal break in the coil. Check that coil terminal for continuity to the opposing side.

I saw that... -.- A couple miles isn't likely to hurt it very much. You could change the fluid after driving it a couple days and make sure there isn't a bunch of clutch material in the fluid. If the fluid is clean I wouldn't worry about it.

My GFs 95 has a similar issue. The rear u-joint on the driveshaft went bad. Had a vibration at 40 and 80. Replaced the u-joint now it has a vibration/ rumble between 50-70. Removed the rear half of the driveshaft and it went away. Unfortunately you can't just remove the driveshaft on a MT because it won't go anywhere. (It'll go, just not very well) I'd suggest finding a used driveshaft to try on it.

What year is the car? On the older (95-97ish) models the adjusting bolt is the metal shaft that sticks out of the back of that cylinder. It's supposed to have a plastic hex head on the end of it but they always break off. The cylinder things are supposed to be some kind of visual guide for determining the height of the beam but they're always broken too. (Spinning around loosely) You have to use pliers to turn the bolt when this hex is gone. On some of the newer cars( 2000ish and up) there is a cap type thing over the adjuster that doesn't usually need to be removed. You just stick a Phillips head screwdriver into a slot from above to turn the little wheel with the teeth on it. Sometimes you do need to pry the cap off to get access to the adjuster.

How far did you tow it? How fast did you go?

More than likely the plugs were fouled. That makes it a bintz to start, especially when they get wet with that cold start fuel mixture. Best thing is to avoid those quick start, move, shut off scenarios. If you have to start into move it, especially in cold weather, let it run for a few minutes before shutting it off.

What is your existing setup? Title says 95-98 so I guess yours is a 98? L? GT? Outback? Are they front? Rear? Caliper with the bracket or just the caliper?

Are the headers stainless steel? I don't do much painting, but the type of primer makes a huge difference. Usually for metal you want to use an etching primer, but that may not help with a high heat application. If the primer isn't a high heat primer it will peel away and take the paint with it.

Check for any split or broken vacuum hoses. Also check all of the hoses that attach to the intake tube. If any are loose or split at the ends it will cause a lean fuel mixure and cause hard starting.

The 95-96 headlights have a plastic hex stuck on the end of a metal rod that sticks out of the back of the housing and the hex part always breaks off. If your headlight lenses are cloudy or yellow use a polishing kit on them to get the lens clear and you will be able to see much better at night.

I've seen pics of some pretty bad cranks on here and other forums and haven't seen one yet that needed to be replaced. The key isn't really necessary, it just holds the pulley in place until you tighten the bolt. Once the bolt is tightened properly the pulley won't move because its gets jammed against the timing sprocket.

Driving lifted rig with big tires will SUCK with a lightweight flywheel. The flywheel maintains rotational momentum of the engine when engaging the clutch to start rolling. A light weight flywheel doesn't keep the same momentum, which means you have to use more throttle, and you have to ride the clutch more in order to keep from stalling the engine. Its bad enough with stock sized tires, bigger tires will worsen the effect since you're trying to get more weight rolling using less momentum. If anything, heavier flywheel will be better, but if you have no trouble with your current setup, I wouldn't change it. If you have problems with the clutch slipping, a 2.5 clutch kit may help since the 2.5 pressure plate hasa higher clamping force.

I don't really see a need for having the diode there. Perhaps it's to prevent stray currents from back feeding through the door switch wiring, hard to say based on just looking at the wire diagram. The door ajar light will still work without it, just hook the two wires together and tape them up.

It doesn't take much voltage variation to make those little warning lights dim. That could just be an effect of voltage drops within the module as it switches currents across the various memory circuits in order to clear them.

I'm thinking you're talking about the rear cross-member. Number 4 in this picture http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_9/suspension_and_axle/rear_suspension/ The diagram in the link is for a second gen, but the gen I & II are basically the same underneath. The rear crossmember is known to rust out and break, especially in areas where salt is used on the roads in winter.

Your clutch cable or the positive battery cable is routed incorrectly and the two are rubbing against each other. You now need a new positive cable, AND a new clutch cable. You did unhook the battery to keep this from setting the car on fire?

I figured that's what you meant but just wanted to make sure! Airbags don't go off randomly, They go off when you touch the wrong wire! But thinking about this, power and ground, (especially a good ground), are very important for the airbag system. It would be a good idea to check voltage drop on the supply wires to the module, and check voltage drop on the ground to make sure its getting the proper supply voltage and the ground is good.