Fairtax4me

If you can, pop the return hose off the pump assembly and run a section of 5/16 or 3/8 fuel line out of the car and down into a large gas can. That will be easy to siphon and will get the fuel level in the tank at least lower than the pump assembly. Chock the front wheels and jack the back end of the car up to get some more help from gravity.

Don't try to check continuity of the pretensioner! That will almost certainly set it off! The wiring leading to the tensioner can be checked but make sure the pretensioner is unplugged, and the battery has been unhooked and the airbag module discharged. You also need to unplug the airbag module connector, and you really should unplug both airbag inflator modules, and any other airbags or pretensioners so you dont accidentally set those off while poking around the airbag connector with an ohmmeter. But If you're very careful, and make sure the wire colors for the circuit match up at each end, you can usually test one circuit without having to go through and unplug everything. An easy test might be to make a dummy resistor to put in the pretensioner plug to see if the code goes away. For this you do need to know the resistance of the pretensioner test plug, which you can probably find in the service manual.

Is it the rubber hose or the metal line? The metal lines like to rust out above the fuel tank. The easy thing for those is to cut the line where it goes through the floor under the rear seat and run a new 3/16 line along the frame out to the wheel.

The fuel pump assembly comes out easily through the access plate in the floor behind the passenger rear seat. You don't need to drain any gas to get the pump assembly out. Dropping the tank on these is a major undertaking, and is way more work than necessary here.

The pic isn't showing up. Its common for the rubber in the strut mount to degrade and crack with age. It could just be badly worn and needs to be replaced. It could be the bearing in the mount that allows the strut to rotate (the strut has to turn when the front wheels turn left/right) has locked up and the rubber has just torn due to the twisting of the strut when turning. Most likely scenario: There is a cone shaped washer that sits below the bearing in the mount. If the washer is installed upside down the bearing will not rotate, and can cause the mount to tear. Either way, new upper mounts will be required.

Then the source of that problem may be a damaged wire at or near the switch for the hatch, or it could be the switch itself. According to the diagram the diode is only in-line to the front left (drivers) door switch. So the issue with the diode would likely be between the diode and the drivers door switch.

i13 connector in the instrument wiring harness. The connector diagram calls this a seat belt diode, but the wire diagram shows no connection between this and the seatbelt warning circuit, so I'm not sure why they have it labeled that way. The wire diagram here shows the circuit this diode is part of.

Ahh better pictures! Your mystery part is.... A diode. That one in particular it looks like is used to control power for the dome lamp and the "Door open" warning lamp in the instrument cluster. I would think that it just decided now was its time to go. This occasionally happens with semi-conductor electronic parts. But the wiring for that should be checked for a possible short to ground. Also have the charging system checked to make sure the alternator is not producing too high charge voltage. High voltage in the electrical system will cause electrical parts to burn out.

Possible for the car to have the wiring for power windows even if it doesnt actually have power windows. Many times they make one main harness with most or all potential options already built into the harness, because its cheaper than making 5 or 10 different harnesses for different options. Water damage or corrosion could have caused a short somewhere that would allow excessive current flow through that component and burn it out. It could have been a diode of some sort. There are several of those wires into the harness in various areas. Diodes are used to keep voltage from back-feeding between connected circuits. But again, even if its a circuit for an option that's not on your car, something like water could have still caused current to flow in that part and cause it to burn out. If it was a diode for an option that IS on the car, that circuit will no longer work, thus it should be fairly easy to narrow down what that part is, based on what doesn't work now. Do you have access to the car to poke around some and figure out if anything isn't working, like lights, radio, Heater/vent controls? Any warning lights on in the dash?

Well like I said, there was no noise, or at least no discernable noise, until I started driving home from the store. By the time I got it home (about 3 miles) it was VERY evident even under 20mph. Just about a month ago I had to get it inspected. I checked over everything beforehand, and there was no play in any of the bearings. When I got back from the store I jacked up the front and this wheel had almost 1/4" of play, and there was a faint mark in the caliper bracket where the rotor was starting to rub against it.

Good deal! Now you have to wonder what else might be unplugged...

2000 -2004 models had a problem with the pump housing in the tank. There's a metal cap on part of the unit that cracks and fuel pressure is just sprayed back into the tank. Search here or google for "Subaru fuel pump cap" and you will find more info. There are replacement caps available that are a better design. Amazon had one for about $50 last I checked. You also need an o-ring which you can get at Napa, or order from amazon. There was a thread that had part numbers for the cap and the correct o-ring. The only other option is to order an entire pump assembly. Last I checked you could only get it from the dealer for about $400.

Need a trans from a 2.2 legacy or Impreza. 99-01. Check car-part.com. Their interchange is usually pretty accurate.

So you need the dummy PCV nipple that threads into the manifold? You should be able to get that from a dealer. But if not, try your local Napa parts store. They often have an assortment of brass nipple fittings and should be able to match it pretty close.

Mainshaft bearing in the trans went bad. Its a common failure. Had you taken it to have it looked at when it started popping out of 4th you could have put a new bearing in it, and it would likely have been fine for another 100k or more miles. Trans is toast at this point. Need a new (used) transmission and you will definitely want to replace the clutch while there is easy access. Rear main seal hardly ever leaks on these, and often they start leaking after being replaced. The separator plate is the major source of leaks and is almost always mistaken (by people unfamiliar with Subarus) as a bad rear main seal. There is another o-ring on the access cover on the back of the block that can leak as well.

This is the same trend with almost every car maker. Look at a first gen Honda Accord, compared to one from the early 90's, compared to a new 2015. Toyota Camry, same thing. Nissan Maxima and Altima. Ford Taurus Chevy Malibu Though you can really only go back to early 2000's with that one. If you look at the original Malibu the new one is tiny in comparison. Speaking of first gen legacy though. I keep seeing a 90-91 GT wagon around town that I wish I could save. Those first gens are so comfortable to drive! My GF bought an 06 forester a few months ago and its a hunk of plastic rattles and rides like a brick.

The best you can do is put a 99-01 251 in there. You might be able to use up to 03-04 range but I'm not sure. Use your current intake manifold on the 251 long block. The VVT stuff isn't viable for your year. They changed to the Canbus setup for the computer when they started using the VVT. That's a whole harness and ECU swap and some more wiring on top to keep the computer from throwing codes all the time.

PM ShawnW and he should be able to straighten it out. I've had trouble with donations in the past and he takes care of it pretty quick.

Is it 2019 already?! 16 years is still pretty old for a car. Add some rust time from sitting for so long, the brake fluid in those calipers Is probably just nasty and full of water, which causes the calipers to rust inside. The slide pins are also a major source of brake problems, as was mentioned earlier. You might be better off to just put some rebuilt calipers on it with new slide pins.

You should use an actual oil pressure guage. Call your local parts store. Many times you can rent a pressure guage set. A decent set should include the correct adapter.

Remove the sending unit and connect a guage there in its place. It's a Metric thread so you do need a BPT thread adapter to connect most guages. A NPT thread adapter will not work.

Yes. It's common for the screws on the backing plate of the oil pump to loosen and back out. This causes the backing plate to separate from the pump and oil pressure is bled back into the crankcase. Have to remove the oil pump from the block to fix it. If it needs a timing belt, nows the time to do it.

Still poking around and I think the power window breaker is mounted lower in the dash. Possibly on the lower cover under the steering column. The mechanic said it was behind the instrument cluster. It appears the connector in the photo is up high next to the air tube for the dash vent (which would run behind the instrument cluster) or possibly just below the vent for the defrost. So this burned up part must be something else. Blower motor resistor block is on the passenger side behind the glove box. That will cause your high speed only blower fan operation. But that's NOT related to this problem. The radio issue could be related somehow, but we still need to figure out exactly what the little burned up part is to figure out why it wasn't playing nice.

Best I can figure is that could be the power window circuit breaker. But its hard to tell exactly where that connector in the photo is in the dash.

I'm not familiar with the dccd functions, but some systems you have to push and hold a button for several seconds to change modes. Are these buttons in the console or up on the dash by the radio? If they're in the console its possible someone spilled a drink and soaked the switches. If in the dash, possibly someone removed the panel for radio access and forgot to plug the switch back in.