Fairtax4me

No. 25d is a DOHC engine. Only 96-99. Too many differences to make that work. You need a 251 SOHC. 00-04 legacy or 99-04 Forester. Put your original intake manifold on the new engine.

If rods are junk the crank is junk too. Pass just on the principle that he can't provide any info.

I've done several ej22 head gasket jobs and have never seen gaskets look like that. I would lean more towards a faulty gasket on that one. Cylinder walk I would also expect there to be damage all around the cylinder, not just at the bottom. Something else was going on there. The last one I did I didn't even machine the heads. Just cleaned them up with an air wheel and some sand paper. Slapped it together with Felpro gaskets (they have the Fuji logo on them) That engine has done about 25k miles since. What is the torque sequence in the Haynes manual?

The airbag system is isolated (or is supposed to be isolated) in such a way that stray currents or back feeds in the main power system do not affect the inflator circuitry, and can not set off the inflator modules. Something is very wrong if you plug in a memory saver and the airbags go off.

The battery could have a bad or dead cell. It may show proper voltage after jumping or after a short charge but bad cell can drain the other cells after sitting overnight. I would ask the dealer to keep it for a night and test in the morning. Parasitic draw testing isn't as easy as it used to be. The control modules in the car may need up to an hour, possibly longer, to go into "sleep" mode and power themselves down. Reconnecting the battery turns all of the modules on, and some will turn on lights or actuate solenoids or some other function. The immediate current draw of all the modules combined can be enough to blow the fuse in most ammeters. To get around this you unhook the negative. Strop back several inches of insulation from each end of a fairly large guage wire. Wrap one end around the battery post (tie it if you can so its stays tight) wrap the other end around the cable terminal. Put the terminal back on the battery post. Turn the ignition on for about 15 seconds so the modules will self test, then turn the key off and remove it from the ignition. Now you can remove the negative cable from the battery, being careful not to break the connection of the wire. Connect your ammeter between the battery and cable, then after the ammeter is connected remove the wire from the cable. Doing this keeps the modules energized while you're hooking up the ammeter so they don't go into self test mode and blow your meter. This also decreases the time you have to wait for the modules to go to sleep mode. Once the battery is disconnected and reconnected, some control modules will not go into sleep mode at all until the key is cycled. They will continue to draw a high amount of current until the key is cycled. After the meter is connected wait about an hour for all of the modules to power down. If you keep close watch on the meter you may notice the drops in current as the various control modules power down and go to "sleep". Usually this should only take 10-15 minutes, but some modules can take up to an hour. GM has some control modules that can take up to 3 hours.

It doesn't sound good. My GFs 06 is a little funny about going into drive when its cold. But it has 180k on it. I know the 4eat likes to shift a little hard when cold, but only the 1-2 and 2-3 shift. It will hold the gear longer than normal then shift quickly. Flare between gears (engine RPM climbs abruptly before dropping down when the next gear engages) is not normal for any trans. Flare usually indicates excessive clearance between the clutch plates, which could mean excessive wear. Did you change the filter inside the pan? Is the pan dented?

Front diff and trans share GL-5 gear lubricant. Binding could be torque bind. Try making tight circles in both directions and see if you get the same feeling. With the manual trans it may not be noticeable when the trans is cold, but will become noticeable with the trans warm. Or if it is noticable cold it will be worse when warm. What kind of whine? Cat fight? Or lower pitch like an airplane propeller/engine? Axles differ slightly between manual and auto. The inner joint is different, though they are both the same size physically, and will both mount up and the same. Using a manual axle on an auto trans may lead to vibration issues.

Good luck with the HG job. That is odd about the VDC. Coincidence? Did you clear the codes and those both came back? Possibly a grounding issue?

Putting the trans in park engages the parking pawl to the output shaft of the trans. This only locks the front pinion shaft from turning. The pinion shaft prevents the ring gear on the differential from turning, but it does not prevent the side gears inside the differential from turning. The axles are connected to the side gears. The side gears will rotate opposite of each other. (This is normal operation for a differential.) If one axle breaks, the axles can then rotate and the car can roll away. (The broken one will rotate the opposite direction of the wheel) The rear wheels are powered by a clutch set in the rear of the trans. The clutch set needs fluid pressure in order to engage. It only gets fluid pressure when the engine is running, and the transmission is in gear. When you start driving the clutch engages and the rear wheels will propel the car. When parked the clutch is free so no power can go to the rear wheels. This also means the rear wheels will not hold the car still when the trans is in park. Put a new axle in it and you'll be set.

That's pretty quiet if you can only hear it outside the car. I put cams in my 96 and the oil drained out of the rocker assemblies, so when I started it the lifters got pumped full of air and they all collapsed. It was clicking so loud my neighbor came out of his house to see what was going on.

You can't continue driving it with the u-joint like that. The bad u-joint throws the shaft out of balance and eventually it will break the yoke or the joint and the shaft will whip around and cause a lot of damage, and possibly injury to you or other passengers in the car. The quick thing to do is unbolt and remove the rear section of the shaft. This eliminates any possibility of damage. You can drive the car indefinitely by doing this, though there is a chance that leaving the FWD fuse in for long periods (several months) can cause damage to the duty c solenoid for the AWD transfer clutch. This will safely get you a couple of weeks with no ill effects. Obviously it will not be ideal, especially if you need to drive in snow or off-road, but there won't be any possibility of further damage to the driveshaft or related parts. There are some driveshaft shops that can rebuild Subaru driveshafts (new u-joints and carrier bearing) but they can be almost as costly as ordering a new shaft. (I have this same problem right now with my GFs 95) I was quoted $425 for a new driveshaft. The same shop said they could rebuild the current shaft (3 new joints, new bearing) for around $300-350. There are sources for new joints that you can install yourself, but you need certain tools to do it, and there is the possibility that the shaft will be out of balance after installing the new joint. (The problem I currently have.)

Can't say I've heard of AES. If you have no continuity from the relay to the ECU, the ECU isn't the problem. It's the wire from the relay to the ECU. If you search around there is a website (I don know it offhand or I would post a link) with factory service manuals for many Subaru models. Find a wire diagram for your car so you know which pins are which on the ECU. Otherwise you're just poking around in the dark.

The hydraulic lifters on that motor can tick from time to time. All of the 2.2s I've owned in the 95-96 range do this when its time to change the oil. New oil and filter and they're quiet for another 2,500- 3,000 miles. There is an issue with the oil pump where the screws that hold the backing plate on the pump can loosen and allow oil pressure to bleed off. If the timing belt needs to be done now would be a good time to check that and put new belt and idlers on it. Check. misumoAuto on eBay for timing belt kits. They have one with water pump for about $110 last I checked. Free shipping. I like the kits with the Aisin water pump because it's an OE manufacturer pump and you get a much better quality OE style gasket with the pump. Those run about $130 last time I got one.

No need to swap yokes. The rear half of the driveshaft is the same for auto or manual. Just unbolt it at the center flange and bolt the rear section onto your car. Be sure to pay attention to the way the yokes are oriented. If the rear section is 90° off it will cause vibration. The driveshaft has nothing to do with the sluggishness. The crushed exhaust pipe could cause that if the actual pipe is crushed. The heat shields on the outside of the y-pipe can be pretty badly bent and not affect the pipe inside.

It jus tricks the ECU into thinking the sensor is there. You can run it indefinitely but you lose knock correction so you have to keep an ear out for pinging. If it pings constantly you'll want to put a new sensor in it ASAP. I made one semi-permanent to use for testing purposes. It's been hooked up on my 96 for over a year. It pings on occasion when its hot outside, so ill hook up the knock sensor when I notice it pinging and see if the car feels any different. Very slightly less power with the knock sensor hooked up instead of the resistor when its hot outside. When its cold out I don't notice any difference.

Did you check resistance across the output posts? Infinite resistance from post to post means there is a break in the secondary circuit. Primary resistance will be center pin to either of the outer pins on the plug. Resistance of the outer pins to each other should be infinite.

This seems to be a common thing with the new engines. Lots of threads about this on the various forums, but I haven't seen any conclusive reason for it. What kind of oil do you run in it?

55 is low for cold pressure. It should be above 70 at cold idle. Bypass valve pressure is 75psi so you should get close to that. What pressure do you get at warm idle? You didn't put a gasket on the backing plate did you? Should be no gasket there. A gasket will increase the clearance between the pump rotor and the housing and will lower the output pressure.

99 usually has a plug directly on the sensor. 98 and earlier have a 6" pigtail on the sensor with either a 1 or 2 pin plug at the end. Only one wire on all of them but its easier to match the replacement to what you have. If you're in a pinch and need the car to run right to to RadioShack and get some resistors and connect them in series to get somewhere around 580Kohms. Hook that up in place of the knock sensor and the ECU will come out of limp mode.

The PSSS valve will not prevent it from starting. The PSSS is used to switch the vacuum (manifold) or atmospheric pressure source to the MAP sensor which is the small block right next to the solenoid. It switches when the key is turned on so the ECU reads atmospheric pressure. Once the engine starts it switches over to read manifold pressure.

Once a head gasket is compressed its done. If you only made it halfway through the torque sequence you would be able to re-use it, but once the gasket is fully torqued it has to be replaced.

You may be using too much oil. I've always just dipped the first 1/2" or so of the bolt into a small cup with oil. The oil will spread over the length of the threads as the bolt is threaded in. I'm inclined to think that will affect the sealing of the gasket.

These can often leak very slowly from the thermostat housing. Intake Manifold gaskets do not see any coolant on these engines. There is a coolant crossover pipe on top of the block beneath the manifold that has separate gaskets. Those can leak as well, but are not very common leak points.

I looked all this up a couple years ago and I seems to remember 95-97 being the same, and 98-99 being the same based on the pinouts. If you want to download all the servic manuals, all you need to look at is the ECU I/O charts to determine if ECUs have compatible pinout.

You could try searching youtube for a video. Ericthecarguy has lots of helpful how-to videos, not sure if he's ever done a Subaru clockspring though. Worth a look at least. Even if you can't find one specific to subaru the basics disabling the airbag are the same for every car.