Fairtax4me

Yes. The TPS sensor is probably not bad. It probably just needs to be adjusted. Often people will try to adjust the idle speed by turning the throttle stop screw on the throttle body, and that just causes problems because the ECU sets the idle speed. Possible the IAC is bad, the style used on that engine isn't the most reliable, but check the TPS adjustment first. Downstream O2 sensor could be bad depending on the code. Can you post the actual P0xxx numbers?

Yes the clock spring carries the wiring for the horn cruise and airbag. The cruise draws power from the horn circuit, so make sure the horn fuse isn't blown.

It's pinging. It may be running too lean, or the rings are worn and its burning oil. How old is the fuel filter? How old are the spark plugs? How old is the PCV valve?

The light turns off on its own after a few drive cycles. The number of cycles depends on the code that was set. Have you had the first oil change done yet? That's typically a 500-1,000 mile change.

I serviced a Honda last week that would intermittently shut off while driving. No lights or anything. Car would just shut off. Coast to a stop, turn key off and back on and the car would start just fine. Owner replaced fuses, modules, relays, ignition switch, nothing fixed it. Pulled the battery cables and the ring terminals were heavily corroded on the inside. Both battery posts were pitted and burned in several places. Had to scrape them with a round file to get down to clean metal. Battery connections are always worth a look when you have some sort of strange problem.

Spark plugs? How old? What kind? At that mileage the timing chain guides may be worn and have allowed the chain to jump a tooth. There are inspection holes in the cover which can be removed to check the timing. Timing chain work is a major job on that engine.

Denso makes alot of good quality electrical parts for these cars but I haven't eve tried their radiators. Was thinking of ordering one for my girlfriends car, which also split the radiator at the beginning of the week. TYC is a well known afternarket collision parts company. Headlamps, bumpers, radiators, header/cowl panels, trunk lids, hoods. They make a lot of stuff that never quite fits properly. I'm not too impressed with the stuff I've seen from them.

Anytime the clutch starts to slip while under load, total failure is not far behind. Especially so on a turbo car. His driving style is a bit harsh for the stock clutch. Look into a higher performance clutch.

How do you know it stopped working just today? Auto or manual trans and how many miles on the car?

Possibly an ABS system fault. Since the new cars use the ABS system for traction control and the hill holder, a fault that disables the ABS system will also disable those. There may be codes stored in the ECU. Try scanning it with an OBD2 reader. Scanning the ABS system itself is likely to require a trip to the dealer. Those could also be coming on due to low battery voltage.

If you're referring to the crank and cam sensor signals, yes those are used to determine crankshaft angle and cam position to differentiate between top dead center on compression or exhaust stroke. Together they're used to determine ignition timing and the start of the fuel injection sequence.

O2 sensor wiring is typically only sheilded up to the connector. From the connector to the sensor is usually unsheilded, and is generally not affected by RFI or EMI. On older cars its a low strength DC voltage signal, and it takes a fairly large change in the signal over a long period of time to greatly affect engine operation.

I'm not sure, but the older Subaru FSMs tend to have decent descriptions of how the fuel/ignition system parts work. You can also look up the ECU pinout and wire diagrams to help figure out how it works. Check here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ 95,96,97 all use the same IAC. IIRC 92 does as well.

Does it have individual coils on the plug or is it a coil pack with plug wires?

So that's where that went!

IACV is not air tight. It is supposed to move freely. Transmission ground doesn't really matter but the grounds on the manifold are for the ECU. Those will cause some problems. Pretty sure that car should have a 3 wire front O2 sensor so you should be good there. Only issue might be if its wired incorrectly. On a 3 wire sensor the odd colored wire is the signal wire. The two same colored wires will be for the heater element.

If you're getting a signal to the coils you should be getting spark. Did you remove a coil and stick a spark plug in the end to verify you have no spark? Remember to ground the plug on the block. Are you using the proper spark plugs?

You would have to have full intake vacuum going straight to the oil pump for that to be a problem. There's just no way that can happen. The passages in the rocker shaft that feed the rockers are extremely small and easy to clog. It's common for them to clog after removing the oil pump, and the lifters collapse. I think you need to get a pressure guage on it and get an idea of the actual oil pressure rather than relying on the light.

Just a conicidence. The knock sensor doesn't have anything to do with starting or the starter. Bad battery connection or the starter solenoid contacts are worn.

Is it a 3 wire sensor or 4 wire sensor?

Yes, you do need to remove the rubber dust cover if its still there. It may help to unbolt the slave cylinder and slide itnout of the way. Just dont remove the hydraulic line because they're kind of a pain to bleed. You may then be able to look down and see the pivot stud. Be sure that it sprays only in the back of the fork. If it sprays everywhere it may get on the clutch disc and make it slip. Any brand of white lithium grease should do. Walmart usually has it pretty cheap in their Supertech brand. I've used the Walmart stuff for a few years on various things and it works just as well as any other brand.

The shielding is grounded at the ECU. You do need a high temp insulated braided shield wire. I think the easiest thing would be to cut the wire you need out of a junkyard car, but I do remember you saying before that the closest junkyard is a bit of a drive and no guarantee of Subarus there. Post here in the classifieds. I'm sure someone has a spare harness they could send you or pull the cam sensor wiring out of.

The gas is under pressure but not nearly enough to support the weight of the vehicle. Only about 100-150 psi, but the volume of gas is very small, and its contained in a very small chamber compared to the size of the strut. The force of the gas acting on the strut rod is low enough that you can usually compress the strut by hand. Gas lift struts for a hatch are tiny and contain pretty much only gas. The ratio of the volume of gas to the size of the strut is much higher, thus the force acting on the strut rod is higher.

These pumps are very simple, and difficult to damage. If the pump is put together dry it can take several seconds of cranking before the pump starts pulling oil up the pickup tube. The big concern there isn't the pump, its the bearings in the engine. If the pump was dry and you started the engine the bearings may now be damaged from running dry. I think the pressure switch thread is 24 or 28 pitch BPT. Kinda hard to find sometimes. If you can't get a fitting with the right thread remove the hex plug from the block. It has a much more common thread. Take it to a hardware store and get a brass coupler with the proper thread to match the pressure guage hose.

Wrong FDR would by have caused problems immediately. Binding sresses everything. Axles, ball joints, tie rod ends, struts, front and rear diffs, driveshaft u-joints, everything that makes the car move and steer. Owner of the car the trans came from could have had mismatched tires or driven with tires improperly inflated. Hard to say. Only thing you can do now is replace the center diff.