Fairtax4me

The strut could be bent, or one or both of the lateral links maybe. Could even be the hub housing itself, that would be some trick to do that though.

I may be making a junkyard run this weekend. I'll keep an eye out for one if you'd like. The place I go is cheap. Idle motors are $6 and change with tax. I made sure to check that last time I went because a friend of mine needed one for a Honda.

Replacement requires removal of the seat cover. Not difficult but you need hog ring pliers to put the cover back on. Might be able to get them at Lowes or something, I'm not sure. The heating pad will probably cost a pretty penny. I'd try all the diagnostic steps in the manual before replacing the pad.

For dual pistons I use a large C clamp and a block of wood to drive them back evenly. Or sometimes I just push them back by hand. Never had a problem with fitment of after market pads, especially higher end pads. The only times I have trouble getting new pads to fit are when the bracket is rusty or has a lot of dust buildup on it. A wire brush usually cures that. On rare occasion I've had to break out the old flat blade screwdriver and chisel the stuff away.

Call a few junkyards in your area. Or better yet find a pull apart and grab one for really cheap. Or you could just rig it with a bent up clothes hanger.

I've had good luck with Duralast parts. I'd probably go with the high end ceramic pads, but I tend to be a bit rougher on brakes than most people. (read as: I drive it like I stole it) I prefer the brakes to be just as responsive after repeated hard braking as they are under normal conditions. Little tip for the rotors. If there is a lot of rust build up on the hub sand it off before installing the rotors. This will help prevent them from warping due to excessive run-out. It also helps to sand down the inside of the wheel where it sits against the rotor. You don't want to do too much, but get the really heavy corrosion off.

Infinite resistance means an open circuit, so yes, that could very well be the problem. Be sure to stop by the Subaru dealer and get a new seal for the IAC.

I've been looking into these as well. I'm pretty well decided on the Whiteline poly bushings. I just have to get off my duff and measure the rack so I buy the right size. From what I've found, most of the suspension will swap directly between the Legacy and Impreza, up to 2004ish when the Legacy chassis changed.

Rough idle, low power, usually symptoms of a vacuum leak.

I believe by 95 they were all electronic, no distributor. You have a position sensor on the crankshaft that tells the ECU when the pistons are in the correct position to fire. If you're positive you aren't getting any spark, check all the fuses, check to see that the coil is getting power. You can also test the crankshaft position sensor for operation by checking for 5V reference from the ECU at the sensor. And check the return wire for a voltage pulse when the engine is cranking.

X2, follow the wire and find out where exactly it comes from, and if anything is spliced into it along the way that isn't supposed to be. (old wiring for an after market alarm, remote starter, tachometer, etc.)

My local U-pull -it (an hour and a half away) charges 149 +25 core for any 4 banger. Not bad if you ask me.

I wouldn't bother. They have all the same problems that the US market engines have, and you pay twice as much (or more) for them trying to ship them over here. Plenty of good used engines here in the states that will make good replacements.

I've had problems like that with other cars, usually because I tightened a few other bolts before all of them were in place. There is also the possibility that the chassis is flexing enough to throw off the alignment of the holes when the car is on the jack stands. It sometimes helps to put the car on 4 jack stands to minimize chassis flex and everything may line up better.

The shifter has a bunch of bushings that isolate vibration pretty well, so you probably won't feel much there. I would think a bad bearing would make a pretty noticeable noise if it were bad enough to resonate through the whole car, but I guess you never know. Another thought occured to me, the dogbone mount (Subaru calls it a pitch stopper) bolts right to the firewall. If the bushings in it are worn out it would transmit a fair amount of vibration directly into the firewall, and consequently into the pedals.

Perrin is a performance after market parts manufacturer. http://www.customcarscentral.com/prnpspeng100-subaru-wrx-sti.html

Ok, so its a constant vibration but it's a high frequency. Is it a 10k rpm Dremel? Or more like a drill in concrete kinda feeling?

What do you mean by "quick" ? No movement could mean the engine is sitting on the frame. Best way to check them is to get under the car with a pry bar. Put it next to the mounts and try to lift the engine.

Maybe for an after market tachometer? Any strange holes drilled in the dash board inside? Is there a tach in the cluster?

Check your motor mounts.

Sounds like a good project to me. I'd take a free car any day, especially if it's rust free. I'd be wiling to help out if you were a little closer. DC area is a pretty good drive from here though. :-\

I don't believe they are the same no. Pretty sure one of them is a tooth wider.

At least you remembered to put the drain plug back. And no the drain plug should not be very tight. Its going into aluminum, which is easy to strip.

The alternator belt drives the PS as well. AC belt should be separate.

Voltage issue sounds likely. Probe the connector at the VSS and see if it is getting 5V from the ECU.