Fairtax4me

That's because they only have two flats on the OEM rod ends and they don't always line up in a way that a wrench will go on them. You're also supposed to punch the outer tabs on the lock washer back out before you loosen the rod. Can't really do that with it on the car because you can generally only get to one side. Luckily the washers are cheap, and the inner tabs shear off easily if you give the rod end a good turn with a pair of channel locks.

The additive is a conditioner for the head gaskets and other various seals in the cooling system. It should not affect it's cooling ability. Having the car overheat in such a short distance is usually air trapped in the system or a stuck thermostat. I would also remove the hoses and check for possible internal damage that could be causing a blockage. Just for gits and shiggles pull the spark plugs and check for signs of abnormal combustion. White ash deposits, wetness, or dark discoloration could all be signs of a failed head gasket.

Silicone spray.

3 full volts? It should sweep somewhere between 0.0 and 1.0V. Maybe they said 0.3 - 0.4V?

On the manuals there is a separate switch. On the Auto it is combined with the inhibitor switch.

This is a spin off from his previous thread... Here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=104269

There's a lot of info about engine swaps here. Do some searching and you'll be sure to find it. The EJ22 is a solid engine, but the newer ones are higher compression and will bend valves if the timing belt breaks. Bit of a draw back but still better than having to deal with blown head gaskets on a 2.5.

The reverse light switch. And it's on the side of the transmission, not in the console. Check the wiring for the switch first. Should be something similar to this. The reverse switch is number 14.

The good ones (old ones that were non-interference) aren't that hard to find in a junkyard. Usually the cars are wrecked or have an automatic transmission. I think your best bet though would be to buy a whole car. Then you can get the engine, all the wiring, the computer, etc.. Everything needed to make the engine run would be there for the taking, and when you have what you need you part out the car and sell the rest to a scrap yard. Like a scrap metal yard, not a junk yard. And you can sometimes get more if you strip it first. It makes less work for the recyclers.

A little trick I've been told of a few times over the years is for bolts with thread lock on them, whack it with a hammer a few times. Not sure if that's a good idea on a cam bolt though. On crank bolts it's a big no no because it can damage the thrust bearing. If you can get an impact wrench in there that's the way to go.

I saw those in one of the write-ups. I didn't figure on the thing being that hard to get out since it was all covered in oil. I'll know better if I ever have to do one again.

Crutchfield often says that some units won't fit a vehicle even if they will. They have a pretty high standard of quality when it comes to installation. They take a lot of measurements in the car and estimate what should fit based on those measurements and add a little extra room for wires and such to fit behind it. If it doesn't fall within the amount of estimated space, they'll say it won't fit. They do the same thing with speakers too.

Bad switch, or a stuck relay.

For suspension components you should generally replace both sides at the same time. Even though it might not "look" bad you should replace that other shock. Sway bar bushings are not that difficult to replace and they shouldn't cost that much for the whole set (frame bushings and end links). $400 sounds a bit steep, even for Canadian dollars. I'm sure there's an independant Subaru shop in/near Toronto that can give you a better diagnosis.

What's the part number on the side of the sensor? I may have one taat will work, and if not I can get one for ~ $15.

I think it's just a coincidence that it does it when it's low on gas. The "click" is the sound of the starter solenoid operating and bringing the contacts in the solenoid together. But the amount of current that the starter motor needs to rotate the engine burns the contacts so they don't make a good connection. Why it then starts when you hit the shifter. There could be just enough vibration transferred through the shift cable to the engine to jar the contacts into a slightly different enough position that they then connect well enough to allow the motor to turn. It sounds like a stretch, but sometimes it doesn't take much at all to make that connection right and allow current to flow properly.

There is a hole in the side of the range select lever where this "stopper pin" is supposed to go. I think a small screw or piece of a coat hanger should work fine. It goes through into a hole in the side of the switch. Once that lines up you tighten the bolts.

Next time it does it smack the starter solenoid with a hammer, it just needs a little persuasion. All cars smell somewhat strongly of gas when started. Especially when cold started. It takes a richer fuel/ air ratio to start a cold engine than it does to start a warm engine, or to keep it running at idle once it is warm. Also the catalytic converter does not work when cold, period. It has to be about 600°F before it can start to convert left over fuel and hydrocarbons in the exhaust into more pleasant gases such as hydrogen, oxygen, and nitrogen.

I have a set of steelies off a Toyota camry that are 16x6 I beleive. Can't recall what the lug pattern or offset is but I'll check. I'd let you have all 4 for $100 shipped if you're interested.

An assortment of Metric wrenches and sockets as well as a 3/8" ratchet and a 3" drive extension. Release the tension on the belt by loosening (not removing) the lock nut on the tensioner assembly, (on the picture above it is part number 5) then turning the adjusting bolt clockwise until the belt can be removed. Once the belt is removed the lock nut on the adjuster can be removed and the pulley should pull off from the back of the adjuster. Be sure to note the orientation of the pulley. (it may be shaped differently on one side than on the other and will throw off the alignment of the belt of the new one is not installed the same way) Remove the bolt from the center of the bearing and put it in the new one. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Start pulling fuses and see if any are corroded or feel loose.

Couldn't do anything with it... except take the bushings. Getting that roll pin out was a lot of fun. It's been a week and my neck is still sore. I tried everything I could at home, then gave in and took the car up to a friends place with an air compressor and an air hammer set. One hit with the air hammer knocked it loose. I made it so I don't have to remove the boss from the selector shaft next time. And I put a bolt in it instead of a new roll pin just in case I ever do.

There may be a cover on dash to the left of the steering column that says "diagnostic connector" or "OBD" on it. Checking vacuum is best done with a gauge but you can usually find a leak by ear if you know what to listen for. It could also be possible that the throttle plate is stuck or binding, or the throttle cable is binding, or the gas pedal is stuck or jammed under the floor mat.

Junkyard. Look in the phone book under Auto Salvage or Auto Recycler.

I guess it's big enough now they can actually classify it as an SUV. I still think they're ugly.