Fairtax4me

Vacuum leak. Double check all of your hose connections.

Ive got the P0100 in the Legacy I just bought and have the same random power loss/ stalling problem. I've traced it to what I'm fairly certain is an internal break in the MAF sensor. I haven't replaced it yet so I'm not 100%(I'm about 99.5% sure though) but I should know by Monday since I've got a trip to the JY planned for this weekend. Check to make sure none of the wires are pinched or broken before replacing the sensor though. A rich mixture will lead to excessive buildup in the EGR valve. Take the valve off and clean it as best you can with a tooth brush. Get out as much of that buildup as you can. You might also need to remove the intake manifold and clean the ports in there as well. edit: just realized it was my thread OB99W linked to.

I've replaced clutches in several cars with hydraulic release systems and have had to adjust the pedal on nearly every one of them. The system adjusts to normal clutch wear over a long period of time, just like the brake system does. When you put a brand new clutch in the engagement point of the new clutch is going to be sooner (closer to the floor) until it gets broken in, because of the pad construction. Just like with brand new brakes, they can be touchy when they're first installed for the first 15 or 20 miles of driving. Once they're broken in they feel the same as always. As the clutch is broken in you will feel the engagement point move up in the pedal. Once its broken in fully you set the pedal height to where you feel the most comfortable. (I should say engagement height, because that's what you're really adjusting.) You will notice a difference in the way the pedal feels within the first few days of driving. Give it about 500 miles to fully break in before you start driving it like you stole it.

It broke and fell down inside the pillar. Get a flash light and look in there I bet its floating around in there, you can hook it with a coat hanger and fish it out. Or you might be able to get to it by removing the inside pillar cover/ kick panel.

I read wrong earlier and didn't see that you had already installed a new switch. You probably have a wiring problem of some sort if a new switch didn't help. I don't know if there is a relay involved in the reverse light circuit on that car. If there is then it could be bad.

There should be an adjustment on the master cylinder push rod. New clutches always need a higher pedal height until they're broken in because they engage sooner. If you back the pedal up some it should fix it.

Uhh, You really shouldn't re tap spark plug holes without removing the cylinder head. Doing it with the head still on the motor is just asking for trouble. Besides that, You still don't know if the side electrode has caused internal damage. It needs to be torn down and inspected before you attempt to repair the head.

I wouldn't use Seafoam in the oil. Modern oil has lots of detergents in it to help prevent sludge buildup (even though it doesn't always), and mixing other detergents with the detergents already in the oil can lead to chemical reactions creating acids that will do more harm than good in the engine. Use "High mileage" oil or switch to synthetic to clean the crank case. If you use Seafoam, use it in the gas tank, and/or the intake manifold.

For the most part all the shock does it keep the car from bouncing. The spring is what holds up the weight. But really 2 extra cylinders is maybe another 75 or 100 lbs at most. Placed in the right spot between the axles you wouldn't even notice that much weight difference.

This seems to be true of nearly every car these days. Whatever happened to the basic utilitarian car? Seems to me that's what most Subarus were, and that's why they became so popular. Same with the Volvo 245. They last forever, get good fuel mileage, can tow a small trailer with ease, and you can throw whatever you want in the back close the hatch and off you go. I've read a lot of good reviews on TTAC. Good as in, they tell it like it is.

The long and the short of it is, Check the oil, and check the transmission fluid. If either one looks like chocolate milk, then that's where coolant is going and the "oil" is coming from. I'd suggest not driving the car until you get this fixed. Antifreeze doesn't make a good lubricant for engine / transmission bearings.

Depends on how fast you drive. It's probably not going anywhere. You might be able to look under the car in that area and see where the clips are that hold it in place. Might be as simple as popping them back in. If you were really anal about it you'd want to remove the whole bumper and make sure the reinforcement isn't bent. But honestly if there isn't any major cosmetic damage it probably not worth the time to do all that. Regardless of what you do you should notify your insurance that it was in an accident. I'm guessing you probably didn't call the police when this happened?

Depends on if its rusted completely through from inside the fender or just under the surface of the paint. Could be as easy as sand, fill, and repaint. But it might also need to be cut out completely and either fiber glassed or a new piece of sheet metal welded in place. If the metal on the backside of that spot is in tact then it's a pretty simple fix.

With most modern cars there are just some plastic clips in that part of the bumper that hold it to the quarter panel. You'll need to remove the splash shields from the wheel well and pull the whole bumper down to get access to see if they're broken or just popped loosen. Here's a breakdown of the rear bumper for reference. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_17/body_equipment_exterior/rear_bumper/

Does it not come on when the just the drivers door is open or does it not come on no matter which door is open?

Shims rarely need to be replaced, so they generally aren't included. Anti rattle clips should usually come with new pads though if the car uses them. They're basically like springs that hold the pads in place and they should be replaced with the pads because they tend to wear out with age and the constant cycle of hot/cold that is typical of the brake system.

Make sure your connections are tight and free of corrosion. Charge the battery and have it and the alternator tested.

Nearly all automatic trans fluids are part synthetic. I have been using Amsoil products in my Lincoln for the past two years and have been very pleased. I think their ATF is around $10 a quart.

MMO? Seafoam is great stuff. Not gonna hurt anything to use it. If its really nasty inside you might be better off to just remove the whole intake and TB and clean it by hand.

Shaking can be due to a lot of things. Could have just been the road surface, might be tires out of balance, bad ball joint/ tie rod end, loose bushings, worn wheel bearing, lots of things. Steering racks don't generally go "bad" as often as tie rod ends and ball joints, but it's not out of the ordinary if it does. The best way to test a steering rack is to rule out everything else first. The rack is totally enclosed, so visual inspection is impossible, and determining play in the steering rack is hard to do until you're absolutely sure that all the other points in the steering system are solid. Check for the basics first, play in the tie rod ends, ball joints, wheel bearings (make sure the lug nuts all are tight), check conditions of all of the bushings. It would help to know the conditions when you noticed this. How fast were you going? Making a turn? Were you accelerating? Decelerating? What type of road surface?

No it never froze, it would run hot and even overheat in freezing weather. Moved the T stat to the side of the motor it should have been on in the first place and never had a problem after that. Never went above half gauge until about mid may of this year. Then I started noticing coolant was pushing out through the reservoir, and there was a sheet of black floating on top of it. Now it doesn't come out of the reservoir anymore it just drinks it.

That's what I thought. I still can't figure why it would be on the inlet side of the pump though.

Well that settles it, I'll save myself the time and money and stick with the original plan. Thanks guys. Probably not even 10k. I don't drive as much as I used to. This car will mostly see the 3 miles to work and back once or twice a day, and maybe a trip to NC or VA Beach here or there.

I need some experienced opinions/advice here. If you've read any of my previous threads you might recall I'm picking up a 96 Legacy, EJ22, manual trans, that needs a bit of work. My plan is to just yank the engine out and reseal it, and do some other PM while I'm in there (TB, WP, tensioners, clutch etc.). Now I've gotten the idea in my head that I should also pull the heads and get a valve job and new HGs since they'll be easy to get to. It has 166k on it. From searching/reading here at USMB I can't find much that shows the 2.2s ever having major trouble with the head gaskets. Assuming that they aren't already leaking, should I be concerned with replacing the HGs while I have this engine out? I figure it would nearly double the amount I'd have to spend on the project with the cost of the new gaskets and valve stem seals, plus shop labor and machine charges. More than likely I'll have this thing 2 years or so and decide to sell it. That seems to be the norm for my cars, about two years and I'm ready for a change. If it doesn't get wrecked and the engine doesn't totally blow up before then. One other thing, has anybody made the switch to full synthetic oil with this many miles? I'd like to but I'm kind of worried about the seal in the middle of the case leaking. Advice?

Sounds to me like the head gaskets didn't seal right. Is the white smoke coming out of the tail pipe or just from under the hood?