Fairtax4me

When you replaced the TPS did you adjust it so you have .5v on the center pin at closed throttle? There's a stop screw for the throttle lever. If anyone has ever messed with that it can cause idle problems.

Knock sensor causes hesitation. Common failure.

The alignment dowels are probably rusty. Two dowels only in the top two outer bolt holes. If you can pry up on the head, or pull up from the bottom it will wiggle loose.

Happy birthday! Hope you torqued that crank bolt down tight or it will come loose! 140ft lbs.

Insert the stub with the opening of the circlip pointing down. It ask helps to coat the clip with grease to hold it somewhat centered. Tap it with a hammer a few times to get it to seat.

No. The ones under the hood are just compressor and radiator fans. Blower relay is under the dash somewhere. Maybe top left corner on the firewall?

I have issues with ALL of the parts suppliers in my area. Its just something you have to put up with in this type of industry. Wrong parts, parts missing from an order, returns/cores not getting credited back to the right account. Its a real PITA, but you gotta go with who's around you if you need parts that day. Week before last I put an alternator, serpentine belt, and tensioner in a minivan. Van didn't make it out of the parking lot and it stopped charging. Had to wait another day for another alternator, put it in, alt worked great, charging fine. Couple days later the damn thing starts squeaking. Not a constant squeak, comes and goes like a cricket chirping. Probably gonna end up putting a third alternator in it. Experiences like that make you have to question the quality of the parts you're getting, and how much do you trust that the parts you put in a customers car? Are they going to last for more than a week, if they're not DOA? People want/need their cars fixed, though. You tell them it'll take you a week to order in an alternator they're gonna take the car somewhere else. Then they get the alternator you didn't want to order from the local parts place! Had to replace motor mounts for a Nissan a few weeks ago. Needed three of them. Front, left, and right. Ordered three, only one was correct. Sent the two wrong ones back. Two more come in, again only one of them was right. Tried a third time, told them send me every mount they listed for it, one of them had to be right! Nope! Had to get it from Nissan. They had it in stock.

This is the tube I was thinking of. It seals the pump from the diff case area. There are seals at both ends I think. Looks like the converter case may have to come off to get it out. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_25/automatic_transmission/at_torque_converter_and_converter_case/illustration_1/

No voltage is gonna be a blown fuse or dead blower relay. Fan switch grounds the circuit after it goes through fuse/relay > blower > resistor. At least that's how it is on the 2nd gen legacy models.

If O2 sensors are malfunctioning the Cats wont function right because the fuel/air mixture will be wrong. when was the last time it had a tune-up? Spark plugs, wires, air and fuel filters, PCV valve? Any vacuum leaks or exhuast leaks can also cause the P0420 code. Was the Timing belt serviced at 105k miles?

ATF dipstick is on the left, hidden under the heater hoses near the starter. Short dipstick on the right is front diff gear oil. Two different systems. Two different fluids. Need to drain the front diff now and refill with 80w-90 gear oil.

Is it a constant clicking or does it only click once or twice then stop?

Stuck way up in the left upper corner of the firewall behind the dash. Any aftermarket stereo that could be staying on? Do a draw test and start pulling fuses.

Try replacing the battery in the remote start fob. Those little indicator LEDs don't take as much juice to run as the transmitter part. Try re-programming again after replacing the battery.

Does the remote start have a separate fob? Or is the remote start and lock/unlock all done from the same fob?

Check for 12V at the motor on both sides, and check at the Resistor block. Could also be a dead fan switch If you have voltage on both sides of the motor and both sides of the resistor.

4t60 doesn't have a hypoid gearset. The biggest worry with these is making sure the pinion backlash doesn't change, but that's all set with shims behind the front pinion bearing, so as long as you don't lose the shims it should be OK. I might be steering you in the wrong direction though. There should be seals on the tube that runs through the diff case that connects the torque converter to the trans pump. If the torque converter was ever removed those seals could have been damaged. That's probably more likely than bad pinion seals. I don't think those seals require a major tear down to replace either.

Will they refund you and let you keep the transmission? Maybe work it out so all you pay is the core cost if they don't wanna give it up for free. I don't think it requires a full rebuild, but to get to the double seal between the transmission and diff is pretty involved. Diff case has to come off, and the pinion shaft has to come out. I don't know exactly what's involved to get to that point. If you don't have a factory service manual for the car, search around here and get one online.

I've used the permatex green stuff for years and haven't had any problem with it. Antiseize works but it dries up so you gotta use a ton of it. Be sure to clean all of the old stuff out and make sure there is no rust on the pins.

Unbolt the flexplate, bolt the flywheel on. Torque the bolts to 65 ft lbs. Make sure to pay attention to the length of the bolts that hold the flywheel on. Often the bolts used on a flexplate are shorter, but still long enough to just thread in with a flywheel, but they only grab a few threads. Have to use the longer bolts with a flywheel. That's 23lbs of steel and the bellhousing ain't gonna hold it back if it decides to come loose. Pilot bearing goes in the center of the flywheel. I usualy put a couple drops of blue thread lock on the outside of the bearing and it should tap into place with a large socket and a hammer. Have had a few that I was a bit concerned how easily they tapped in, which is why I started using the threadlock.

Couple things come to mind, could be a bad MAF sensor. 99-2001 had some problems with those and there was a TSB concerning replacement of the sensor element. Have you noticed a decrease in fuel economy? Another thought is a bad TPS. Erratic TPS signal will cause erratic shifting. Someone needs to put a scanner on it and check the sensor inputs.

The loss of heat usually indicates a low coolant level. I'm not sure if there is a bleed screw on the newer engines to help get air out while filling with coolant. I would probably put a new thermostat in it just for good measure. Then purge the cooling system of air by running the engine without the radiator cap on. Keep the front of the car raised, and let it run until the thermostat opens. Top it off with coolant and rev the engine and hold at about 2,000 rpm to get coolant moving and get any air out of the heater core, top off again and cap the radiator, then shut if off and allow it to cool completely. Check the radiator again after it has cooled and top off if necessary.

I think they're more worried about people running chains on only two wheels. If you run chains on all 4 I don't think you have anything to be concerned with. Another thing to consider is the amount of room between the tire and the suspension/strut. If there isn't much room, a chain may drag or get hung up on the suspension and damage the tire or suspension.

I have some of both. Some with the metal cone ends. Some with a funny plastic thing on the end. Not sure what the difference is.

If you want quiet, I'll second Centric posi-quiet. I have them on my 96 and they seem to stop well enough, even running oversized tires. Have never heard them make any noise. I did have trouble with the new pad bracket shims supplied by centric. They seemed easy to deform and they would rub on the edge of the rotor. I had to replace them twice, and still they would rub the rotor. Finally just had to break down and get shims from the dealer. Cost a little more, but no more rubbing.