WagonsOnly

The only ones I have ever seen have said "Turbo 4WD" on them. (Might have been 4WD Turbo) Coupes (you mean 3-doors or EA81s?) did not have these nor did wagons, of that I'm certain. It was not offered on EA81s at all, either.

Harry's in Hazleton, PA has three Justys on their lot right now. All radiators look to be decent. http://www.wegotused.com

I know this sounds stupid...but...spray WD-40 on the underside when you KNOW you're going to be done for the season and park the car on a tarp. When the next season comes around, clean it off with Brakleen or some other NON-FLAMMABLE solvent (thorough hosing would work too). Should last longer if water/air can't penetrate the oil coating. (Obviously, do not drive it immediately after soaking the exhaust in oil. )

There was a dealer-installed option for a manual, flip-up roof that only opens an inch or two. Power sliders were never available. I know of at least 2 surviving touring wagons in CT--a white 5-speed d/r GL and a red automatic pushbutton GL. There's also a white Loyale touring wagon running around near Granby/Ludlow Mass. that I see from time to time. The white GL has around 210K? on it now. It belongs to Paul's family. The red one is pretty badly rotted and was in a single car accident in NH (deer). It's in my backyard. Paul also parted a red d/r GL about 2 years ago. So that brings the total in this area to 4 that I know of personally. I did see a Legacy GT Touring wagon, maroon, for sale about 6 months ago. Other than that I can't say I really notice Legacies...although aren't all Outbacks "touring" wagons?

GL-10s were available in the following body styles: Sedan EA81 1983-4 Wagon EA81 1983-4 Coupe EA81 1983-4 Convertible EA81 1983-4 Sedan EA82 1985-9 Wagon EA82 1985-9 Touring (raised roof) Wagon 1989 XT Coupe 1985-87.5 There was never a 3-door with the "GL-10" designation--moderately optioned they were the GL and GL Turbo; loaded they were called the RX. Some "fully loaded" GL 3-doors carry RX VINs. The labels say GL because of the colors available in that year (where the color of the car might not mesh with the availability in the options, Subaru apparently built an RX, put an RX VIN on it, and slapped GL decals on). The whole VIN thing is a little, er, odd...Corky (Dr. RX) is the person to talk to about that. The Touring Wagon was a wagon with a bump in the roof--no sunroof was available from the factory, the roof was raised about 2 inches aft of the driver, all other GL-10 options were the same. All EA82 GL-10s (other than a touring wago) will have a sunroof. On sedans and wagons, this is a power sliding affair with a sunshade. On XTs, it's a removable panel that stows in the trunk. Also, EA82 cars will have a digital dashboard. Most EA81 cars were sold with a flip-up manual sunroof and the first-gen digidash, but I know of one one-owner GL-10 coupe with an analog dash. Not sure if they all came with sunroofs or not in that generation. The GL-10 will also buy you upgraded, full cloth upholstery, adjustable front headrests (for height and reach in sedans & wagons '85 on up, reach only in XTs), standard air, power windows, door locks, and mirrors; and special decals on most models. They were offered with optional turbo, 4WD, alloy wheels, etc. The cassette was also a dealer option, even on the GL-10. None of these options were ever standard, to the best of my knowledge, although it seems the bulk of surviving cars have them. Please, correct me if I'm wrong--I'm only human and could stand to learn from this too.

All of my XTs and one XT6 have also had this rubber moulding. (2 XT GL-10 Turbos, one '86 fwd and one '87.5 FT4WD, my mom's '88 XT GL automatic, and an '89 XT6 that I didn't have very long).

Hmm. Shane thinks it's doable...I'll need to find someone to drive the '73 if my dad ends up taking the 360 in the box truck. Details to follow but I'm liking what I'm hearing.

http://www.carsatcarlisle.com is your friend

What kind of driving, what's coming out of the tailpipe, what's your driving style and is the tranny not shifting past 3rd gear?

Seven. :-p

That's not fair, you had at least 800ccs and an entire cylinder more than I did... I did indeed pass 3 total DDs, 2 of which were open. All were in Connecticut. Get outside this weekend. Take the '78 to PA or something. And I'm already maxed out on the Justy tire size...if I went to a 14" rim I'd have to get low-profile tires. (It has 155/80R13s on it now.) Top speed is 83MPH, discovered that on the trip home from the dealer I got her from in Portsmouth--no, it wasn't reckless driving, there was a bomb scare at the Charlton rest area that night. (Columbus day weekend maybe? I don't remember, but it was a holiday.) I like to keep the Justy around the speed limit, maybe 5mph under. Hopefully I'll be there so long as I'm not in Oregon/Idaho picking up cars. Andrew

Camping I would find preferable. Last time I was in Carlisle I needed a place to crash...ended up stopping at Carlisle Days Inn, $70 for a room off peak with a midnight check in, TripRewards and AAA discounts Definitely not worth the hassle of finding a hotel or driving back home if it's out of the way.

Put them in the back of the wagon--second row captain's chairs. And then post back here wondering what to do with the rear bench.

See you then, I hope. EDIT: Mary, I live about THREE hours from you...

If all lights are on, esp. if they came on while you were driving, put in a good battery and see if it goes. If it does, your alternator is toast.

OK, I have the '90 FSM (just came in the mail yesterday--thanks SVXpert!) which indicates that there should be a black male, black female, green male and green female cluster of connectors under the dash. These should be disconnected for U-check (normal user mode). To read the codes you'll need to connect the "Read memory connectors" (the set of black connectors) and leave disconnected the "Test mode connector" (the green ones). If you have no trouble, your oxygen monitor light should remain off and your Check Engine light should start blinking. If there is a problem, the CEL will remain on and the oxygen monitor light will throw all the trouble codes in memory. I think your problem is that someone connected a set of normally-disconnected jumpers. Unfortunately I only have the '90 FSM, so if yours are located elsewhere I can't be of much service. I do have the code listing though.

You can get the trim off from the inside. Get a very small pry bar, curved screwdriver (with a 90º tip) or trim puller. Remove the plastic "cups" on the armrest, use a Phillips screwdriver to take the armrest off, remove the door handle cup (the little plastic piece) with a flat screwdriver (or a stiff piece of mylar or heavy plastic kitchen scraper to avoid scratches). Then pry around the bottom of the panel with the trim puller. There are about 10 plastic press-fit fasteners all around the panel, and starting from the bottom you should hear them all snap. Your only problem will most likely getting the triangular "sail" panel off without breaking it--it's supposed to go straight up, but you won't have that range of motion with the door closed. (Any gray sail panel '87-'94 will fit though.) After the sail is off and the fasteners removed, lift the panel straight up and out of the window channel. There will be one quick disconnect for the power window switches; unhook this. You'll be set, other than the plastic you have to remove to get at the door lock assembly.

You can't quite reach the filler door from a 4-door Justy. Which reminds me: Check to make sure the fuel filler isn't rotted, as it can get pretty nasty around that area if it hasn't been washed often, and isn't easy to fix.

But....why? (no offense intended, just wondering.)

I really wouldn't worry about the shaky idle so much. If it's stumbling and giving uneven power delivery, you have a problem. If it idles a little on the rough side, don't pay much attention to it and remember it's got the charm of 3 cylinders.

They're not a common car...that's part of the fun of owning a Justy and part of the misery of trying to get parts for one...

You're sure the alt is working all the time and not flaky? Is the battery a known good?

What did you replace the alternator with--a jy, a rebuild or a known good? I'd see if I could replace the starter, battery and alt all at the same time with known good parts, then swap back to your original alternator to see if you just put a bad one back in. Sounds like you fried your starter as well as the battery when the alt went before (I've had this happen with 4 cars in the past year---4 batteries, 4 alts and 3 starters)

It's an '88 GL-10 Turbo. I failed emissions and need to get the hydrocarbons and CO down below the acceptable limits, as stated above. The two-speed idle test requires the inspector to obtain an average reading from exhaust gases over 2.5 minutes of run time--once at idle, not to exceed 1100 RPM, and once in "cruise" mode at or near 2500RPM. My readings were: Cruise mode: HC result 295 parts per million HC limit 220 ppm Fail CO result: 6.1% CO limit: 1.20% Fail Idle mode: RPMs: 950 RPM Limit: 1100 Pass HC results 264 ppm HC limit 220 ppm Fail CO result: .8% CO Limit: 1.20% As the title suggests the car has a straight 2.5" exhaust on it and a couple of other modifications that will not affect emissions performace. It's had a recent tuneup and the block was built (I was told with emissions in mind) less than 7K ago. Also as the title suggests, it's a standard Subaru turbo wagon...this is the old gen forum, chances are it's an EA82. Finally, what I need to do (I thought this was also pretty clear) is get through a state mandated emissions test, the cheaper the better. If I can't, oh well, I'll just pay the fine and get plates anyway.

Well, the wagon I bought from Tony failed kinda marginally on hydrocarbon emissions (2-speed idle test since it's dyno exempt) and miserably on CO. My readings were around 300 ppm for hydrocarbons, both tests, and 6% CO during the cruise test. Idle is whatever the car idles at, 1100RPM limit; cruise is around 2500 RPM (close as the inspector can manage). The limits are 220ppm HC and 1.20% CO...I can either pay a $40 fine every 2 years and reregister the car...or get a shop to put $660 into it and qualify for a waiver...or figure out some way to get the darned thing to pass. Any ideas? Thanks... Andrew