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That would be awesome! PM on the way thanks!

The contacts in the starter are copper, about $7 from the dealer. Worth checking that out. The brushes are carbon, probably not the problem. But while it's apart, it's easy to check it.

Good tip on leaving it loose. I hadn't seen that before. I have no idea what a bearing driver is... I assume this is some type of threaded rod with a die on one end that fits the bearing, and a plate on the other? You thread the nut and it sucks the bearing into the knuckle?

I imagine it's easy, heard it's easier than rears, which I wrote a guide for. But I like seeing pictures of something before I do it... Dunno why, just do. So still in for pics.

I've done enough axle replacements I've seen the outside of the knuckle enough to go blue in the face. And the bearings are just sealed ball bearing type deals, right? So basically, it's a sealed bearing pressed in up against a lip. Then the floating spacer thing, then another bearing pressed in the other side? And then shove a seal on each end. Can it possibly be that simple? Thing is, this pos is my DD and I have very little tools. So I can't fudge it up. Once it has a new axle, bearing and clutch. It won't be a pos anymore....

There's a great front wheel bearing guide. I've looked at it before, but never too much in detail. Now that I think I might have a noisy front wheel bearing, I wanted to look in greater detail to see if it's something I want to tackle, or just bring the knuckle to a machine shop, etc. But alas, the pictures are missing. Does someone have pictures of the wheel bearing replacement process they can post? I can get the knuckle off, that's not a big deal, just the pics of the process would be nice. thanks.

The rig and I

Subaru + winterforce tires = badass in the snow. I had a lot of fun with mine.

Ha! I took those. Had my GL out to play too

This is very true. I let my GL sit for two weeks. When I went to drive it the steering u-joint had pretty much frozen up making it scary to steer... Another time I let it sit and the brakes stopped working. A few other things like this. But when I drive it regularly it does perfectly fine. It just needs attention.

it's a pain in the rump roast, but I can get a wrench on those three bolts with my 14" pugs. That way I don't have to deal with wheel on and off.

This is why I refuse to own anything besides old cars...

Subarus are supposed to leak oil, if it stops, fill it up!

I love driving my GL on the beaches in NC, all the guys with the big huge trucks give me the weirdest looks. What IS that THING!!! It's a little car, how does that drive on a beach?!? That being said, driving it 1100 miles from ME to NC was fairly uneventful besides a seized front axle, little car did pretty well.

Ya, but my GL is about 17 years older... Anyway, I put real gas in it. It hasn't seemed to make much difference at all... Since I'm spending a lot of money putting a new clutch and stuff in, I'll probably go back to regular gas because I'm poor...

Look at the picture I posted, it shows that the rear camber and toe ARE adjustable, and how to adjust it.

I just posted this somewhere else yesterday, here's how to adjust your rear camber. I (for some reason) get napa maxdrive lifetime warranty axles. They're crap, half the time they click right out of the box. Recently blew up a front axles on a 1100 mile roadtrip moving, the DOJ actually started seizing up, when it cooled, it would not move. Anyway, new napa axle clicked and knocked right out of the damn box. That made me happy for 500 more miles...

Pull the fuse out... Just be warned though... If you crash, especially if you cause a lot of damage to someone else's car. They might go through your car with a fine toothed comb, if they find that fuse MISSING, they (the evil insurance people out to get you) might say it's all your fault and you're responsible. For this reason, it's a good idea to put a blown fuse in the ABS socket. The ABS in my 98 LGT really annoys the hell out of me.

Must be a rare option, because I never found it in any junk yard cars. Especially now that the GL is my DD AND I live in flat land... Cruise would be nice. I guess since I live in flat land I could just have it hold the throttle open... My speedo doesn't work so I guess cruise wouldn't work anyway.

Bought a new clutch kit, coolant, and stuff associated with changing out a clutch. New rear brake pads, mine aren't worn out, but getting thin. And I need to rent an engine crane this weekend.... And I have a hunch I have a front wheel bearing talking to me... I'm going to be eating noodles for a while :|

You probably just need to do a rear alignment. It's pretty easy to do with a tape measure, I've done it a few times on my 89. Here's the page from the FSM describing the rather esoteric process. If that doesn't make sense, drink a beer or two, maybe it'll help...

So you're saying you actually just tie ropes around the engine and hoist it that way? Cool. On an EJ I just use the intake manifold, but something says that's a bad idea on the ea81. I'm in Beaufort, NC.... Subaru dead zone.

I just went outside with my flashlight to take a look at it. The pitch stop bracket on the engine is sheered off on the pass side. eek! That might explain some weird banging of late on accel and decel. I'll definitely weld that back together! Where are the hoist points on the ea81? There's one obvious one right above the crank pully, but where's the one on back back?

Thanks for the advise/tips MOTM. I'm gonna try for a hoist, or find somewhere with a tree or whatnot to lift from. Otherwise, I'll get a floor jack and inch the motor forwards. Very good suggestions, hopefully this weekend I'll have time to rip it up. I guess I'll go buy a beer on my test drive, then drink it when I get home

Interesting, a wonderful tidbit of information to save me frustration! Thank you very much.