987687

You should still be able to get it out. Subaru alternator plugs (at least on some models) are the same idea as this. It's a spade terminal inside a stupid plastic housing. They got the spade in there, so it will come out. There's usually a little plastic lock mechanism you can push with a screw driver to release it, and get a new one in there. Also, if it corroded in the first place it means water got in the plug at some point. Water will get in there again if you don't replace/seal it up. I do wiring professionally on boats, and if something corrodes merely replacing the corroded connector is only a bandaid. You have to fix the problem that let water in, or it'll happen again.

I don't like spade terminals because of this... I like them less on lights and whatnot because they end up acring. But the problem once they get all green and corroded is that the structure of the spade has now been weakened. With vibration and heat, and whatnot it'll tend to open up now that it's been corroded. This will make bad contact and upset the computer, gauge, whatever. Best bet is to cut it off and put on a new connector.

If I can do both of them in an hour and a half in a parking lot 700 miles from home, you can get it done after work.

Is a duel range where hi and lo fight?!? :-p

99 ej22? That would be a phase2. What year car is it? The vac routing is pretty simple on the 98/99 2.5 setup. A hose goes from the top of the TB to a solenoid that's mounted under the pass side of the intake. From there it goes to the small bottom hose under the fuel supply and return. Then goes into the firewall on it's great journey back to the canister. So if the solenoid works, and you don't have any leaks in the simple under-hood section... Time to start ripping apart the nasty evap system going back. Isn't 441 the code a 99 2.5 will throw when the fuel filler rusts out?

It did change on a 98. So it depends if he has a 96/97 or a 98/99 and what he wants pics of..

I don't have a photo... Imagine your photo except a red sedan in a mud puddle. I told my cousin if he took a cell pic I'd rim him over if I ever got my engine un-hydrolocked...

I have a 98 ej22 swap patient. I got it to run without any codes, so that means I put all the hoses in the right places. What in particular do you want pictures of?

It better be colder than they predict on Ths. If we get a tropical monsoon in January I'll be less than happy

Yea I'm confused. I barely have any snow here, and haven't plowed.

AH! I didn't think about the doors. Good point there. I'm not going to do it until summer, this type of thing sucks when it's below zero out. But I need to get a plan lined up now, this sort of stuff takes a while to work out. My other option is a new shell, but that's non-existant on this side of the country. So my best bet is probably to fix it. Further inspection pending, if the whole thing is rusted out beyond the rockers. I'm never going to win.

So my 89GL has rusty rocker panels. They're not going to last much longer, and beyond being patched up. That's a losing battle anyway. I was wondering if anyone has ever cut out their rockers and welded in steel tube. Either round or square. Am I crazy, or should I give it a go?

There aren't many you'll recognize ... I think jason is the other other MSer on here. B3M too... but he had a different name on here, and got banned a while ago...

It's cold and rainy here right now with no snow. You aren't missing anything.

Hey I'm from maine too. Wicked dood!

I absolutely love this car <3

Hopefully The full size image shows now... Click the link if it's not readable on here. This is an oil analysis of my GL. Pretty happy with it, all seems to be fine http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z314/987687/89%20GL/blackstoneGL.png

You'll be really tempted to take a heat gun to the hose on the bottom of the filler to the tank. But don't... Also, if you bugger that hose up while getting the pipe out, that's bad. You REALLLLYY don't want to have to access the other side of it.

I bet he'll be happy not to pay them

I have never heard of, or seen a MAP on any phase1 motors...

Like pretty much everyone has said before... If you replace the boot now you won't have to replace the whole axle later when it's ruined. It's almost always cheaper to replace stuff when it first starts rather than when it blows up and makes a mess/leaves you stranded.

Gaaa! All this snow pictures are making me annoyed it hasn't really snowed in maine yet. We've had some dustings, but not any good blizzards yet.

I fixed my CEL with electrical tape, although I suppose that wouldn't work in a state that wants it to be off... You could rig it up to turn on when the engine is off, then turn off when the engine runs... That's probably what I'd do...

?? Not on a loyale. It isn't OBD anything. It's like the rest of the SPFI cars, the RED LED on the computer itself flashes the codes.

I'd start by checking what the code is