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I haven't seen a tread like this, so here one is. Of course, check the child safety thing first. My back doors have never opened from the inside, so today I fixed it. It's pretty simple. Take the door card off. It comes off by popping the covers off from the handle and taking out the two screws, then just pop the door card off. Kinda wrestle the cup thing around the handle out. Once the card is off peel back the plastic on the upper back end, and you'll see this. The bottom one is the adjustment for the handle. Something must just get loose over time, because both my back doors needed adjustment. Here's a closeup. Just undo the screw and take up the adjustment. The handles had a lot of play before they actually moved the opening mechanism in the depths of the door. Adjust it so there's barely any slack. Here's a picture after I adjusted it, the red arrows show where the screw used to be, you can see the shiny mark. Tell your passengers to thank me because they can now open the back doors

Same thing, isn't it? Buying the upgraded product will probably fix the problem, therefor correct information. But useless because you don't want to upgrade yet. Oh, the RMS is a pain in the butt to replace. Friend and I replaced the one on his engine, and I don't think we got it in far enough. It still hemorrhages oil out...

What's the definition of a "good one" ? The 96 is non-interference, good. But that's when they changed to single port headers.. Some people would say bad, I guess. If she's just driving it around like a normal person it won't make any difference. That one also has HLAs, means you never have to adjust the valves.

Axle grease is obvious. It's really black, sticky, kinda smelly, nasty grease. It'll get on your hands and not want to wash off. If you say what kind of transmission you have, it'll help you get the right measurement.

My biggest fear is stuffing the car in a snowbank and stuffing snow into the timing belt, causing it to jump time. I've stuffed snow up under the hood of a legacy so hard it jammed the fans up completely and got snow on top of the engine. That was because someone pulled out infront of me, so I ran off the road into a gigantic fluffy snowbank. I got really lucky with that one...

It looks like more of stupid rims added than drop... makes it look dropped. The ground around the front end is changed a bit, but the roof rack still lines up the same place with the old AC unit in the background. The rest of the car is about the same in both pictures relative to the ground.

If you just lower the suspension, you'll change the geometry. The control arms are now going to be working out of their optimal arc, it's going to cause the geometry to go bad when your corner, etc. Since it's just a legacy with spacers, take them out. You'll probably need to get bolts from a Legacy because they'll be shorter (not having to go through spacers) Get the steering linkage from a legacy.

Something about running with no timing covers on an EJ makes me cringe... I know yours is non-interference, but still. (before someone on here who knows I don't have covers on my 98, it's built out of junk parts...) Unlike an ea82 you can put a timing belt, wp, new idlers, and such. And forget about it for 100,000 miles.

Sucks I'd take it for that price, too bad it's too far away. I want a wagon pretty bad.

Figured out how to unbolt a seized engine on an automatic...

I got the engine out... I cut the hell out of the bell housing with three of my most favourite tools. Angle grinder, sawzall, and BFH. Here's one picture, it's out now. So I'll get better ones tomorrow.

When I worked at a garage was the first time I saw a sealed unit wheel bearing deal. I was like WTF is this?! But it was nice being able to change out a wheel bearing it 20 minutes... Take off the wheel, caliper braket, 3 bolts, axle nut. Beat it with a hammer and the whole thing comes off. I wouldn't want to be the one paying $180 for a new bearing assy. though!

You'd have to look at the specifications and output curve from that particular alternator. I don't know a lot about GM products. And remember, you have to figure the crank pulley is bigger than the alt pulley. So figure that into your calculations too.

Are there any draw backs to using classic plates for you? The rules are different for each state in the US, but for the most part the rule boils down to this. If you put classic plates on your car, you can't use it as an every day car, it's only supposed to be used for driving to car shows, transporting the car, etc.

12 would be a bit much on the stock alternator. The GL alternator is a 60amp unit. That's optimum output. I don't know what the RPM rating for max output is, but it's something decently high. 60 amps at 14.4 volts is 864 watts optimum output. Now running 12 lights (assuming the're a standard 55w halogen) would consume 660 watts, or about 45 amps. That's only leaving 15 amps for the car to run, between the normal head lights, running lights, blower motor for your heat, computer, ignition, fuel pump.... etc. It's not enough. You'd need a way bigger alternator to support that type of load. Even in my car with three 100w aux lights the voltage boggs down at idle, it's just too much for the little old alt to push. No matter how many extra batteries you add, you still have to keep them charged, having an extra battery doesn't magically mean your lights take less power from the charging system.

Wait a min, the weird gear-looking ring on the transmission that goes around the stub was loose?! There's supposed to be a lock nut and tab to keep those from turning. They set the diff backlash. If they've been messed with, the backlash is wrong and the diff won't last long.

I see that someone cut the axles off instead of pulling them off the proper way... I bought one of those. $150 for a 5speed with driveshaft and rear end.. Not only did they cut the axles off, they got a punch stuck inside of the roll pin and broke the punch off. On both sides. It took me an hour with an angle grinder and my BFH + subaru axle pin tool to get the stuck pins out. Then the axles were stuck to the stub shafts.... so more BFH fun.... Just don't give the diff bearings too much love... Hope those axles come off nicely for you.

Made my O2 sensor code go away. hopefully my gas mileage goes up again. Still keep tape over my CEL because the other resident codes don't pertain to the car running properly, or not. I also replaced my front brake rotors. One of them has been cracked for probably 5,000 miles now... No more death shake when I use the brakes. It's rather nice. Except for rust, my car is in perfect mechanical shape for now. It's nice to have a car that works.

Does it change if you move the shifter back and forth? Sometimes the linkage can get loose and rattle. Also, another likely culprit is exhaust heat shield rattle. Take a pry bar or something and poke the exhaust heat shields to see if they're loose. Other thing I've had cause this. The mount from the transmission to the exhaust. I've had it break off the exhaust and rattle really annoyingly at certain RPMs.

You park the same way I park. HAHAHA awesome.

I can't give you advise on the innards of the transmission. BUT, I can say that the speedo worm gear CAN get stripped. I don't personally have pics of it, but I've seen them on here. When you have the case split you can visually inspect it for wear.

If you don't care about the interior light coming on and the light on the dash, just unplug the connector. Since you're not complaining about your automatic seatbelts not working, you must have a separate thing to trigger that.

You mean the main bearing inside of the transmission? Are you taking it apart to fix it? About the speed sensor. If your replacement transmission has the digital VSS, and it uses the same harness plug as your car. Just use it. I think what you're referring to is stripped or broken speedo sensor gear. It's completely unrelated to the sensor itself, though. You have to take the transmission apart to get the gear out. I think the speed sensors will all interchange, though. If you want. You can put a digital VSS in a GL transmission, and put a cable into a much newer EJ box. This is what you see when you look into the sensor hole with nothing screwed into it That's a 94 impreza transmission, which I think originally had a cable speedo. But if I swap it into my 98 LGT I'll just screw a VSS into it.

You don't have to do much fab work, really. You can buy the adapter plate and re-drilled flywheel right from SJR lift. You can't do your own driveline anyway, unless you have the proper balancer and tools to get it straight... It's a job for a shop. Axles you don't need anything special for. They're like legos, you just swap the parts around. I dunno about the crossmember... Someone who knows more about what you have to do there can chime in. I know the EA and EJ ones look different, but I'e never sat them side by side to compare.