987687

I'd start by checking what the code is

But people report power increase when they have a 2.5 DOHC in their car and then swap on 2.2 heads. Therefor it must increase power. Unless their butt dyno is broken...

That doesn't have a knock censor. Unless you meant Legacy??

Well, since I'm building a craptastic frankenmotor it'll probably end up with rod knock sooner than later so then I can see if it's interferance or not...

From what I've read and the way I understand it is, the pistons 97 and up made the engine interference. Regardless of the head. So a 96 2.5 DOHC would be valve to valve, but clear the pistons.

I thought oem was a lot more than that. I get 15% off though from the dealer, so it might not be that bad.

Since I'm going to be building a craptastic motor for my car, maybe I'll grab a set of the mls felpro ones... They're a lot cheaper. Do you have a link or part number to it?

Just to be sure, how many prongs did the temp sensor you replaced have? There are two of them. One feeds the gauge, one feeds the computer. The one you want to replace is the one with two prongs.

Maybe I missed it reading through, but which 2.5 head gaskets did you go with?

DOHC doesn't really have much to do about it. It's the un-equal length header. My EL header on the ej22 sounds like a honda, my GL has UEL headers and sounds really good without a muffler. Too loud for me though, I like to be able to hear myself think...

Exhaust pipe is really cheap. You'll probably spend $40 on pipe max. Personally I wouldn't run no muffler... that's going to be REALLY loud and super obnoxious. Having had the muffler rust off enough of those... I can say that from experience. I lost the whole exhaust header back and had to keep driving an hour like that. I had to stop and buy ear plugs to make it home.

The pipe is pretty straight there. You can just cut the flange out and rust off either side. Go to the auto parts store and get an exhaust coupler and some exhaust clamps. Just make it one piece. I prefer welding it, but if you don't have a welder this is a fine approach too you can do yourself.

Since putting HIDs in crappy 22yo reflectors (poorly) designed for halogens blinds people... I added some hellas.

People will argue both sides. Say that when the plastic gets pitted or crazed you can re-surface it. But when glass ones get pitted you have to replace the lens. But that's garbage, my Gl is 22 years old and the glass is fine. The lights suck.... but the glass is fine.

I know that the RS in some years around 2000 has glass lights. I can't be specific because I don't know the exact details. But I have a friend who used to have (I think) a 2001 RS with glass lights stock.

The two piece lights use a different (better) bulb. So you need to put different connectors on your car wiring to plug into said bulbs. And for whoever said it before, JDM projector lights are not glass. They're plastic.

That's really interesting. I'm going to give that one a try. I have crappy napa axles that click out of the box anyway...... so it won't hurt anything.

It's definitely not easier to replace the whole rack than to replace an inner tie rod end. The first time I replaced one was on my 96. It was outside while snowing in 10deg weather. I used two big pipe wrenches for tools and it only took me about 45 minutes... I'd replace the boot while I'm at it, the only reason my inner failed was because the boot was ripped.

I'd get a new boot on there ASAP. When you get sandy salty road grit in the axle, it's all over. Are you lifted?

The cup holders in 2nd gen legacys are some of the most poorly designed garbage I've ever seen.

So now that I'm home, I'm going to do this. Where do you recommend getting the bearings from? Also, how do I get to the inner race when pounding it out? It seems like you can only need the spacer ring on the inside... It's probably obvious when it's apart. Also, I assume it can be done without removing the knuckle from the car, ya?

Or you could fix your camber.... Just sayin.

You can add a switch to lock it in true 4wd. This description is for an older car, so the wiring pinout/colours might not be the same. But the concept is the exact same. Worth a read. If you're half way decent with wiring it shouldn't be too bad. http://www.rs25.com/forums/f8/t99075-4eat-diff-lock-switch-handbrake-mod-torquemada-lite.html

My cars with Bratman18's forester

If you want your ABS to go away, you don't need to wire a switch into the fuse box. Just use a normally closed button that opens when you push it. If you pull the fuse out, then put it back in the ABS still won't work till you power cycle the car. Doing it this way has the advantage that next time you turn the car on your ABS will be working normally, so if you just shut it off to play around, or whatever, you won't forget it's off and expect to have it next time you drive the car.