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Did it when new? Wow, I always just assumed when brand new they worked properly. the 2-3 thing is more the phase2 trans, and it's a slow shift issue.

Since the canister isn't in the back, it's probably a 96. I suppose it could also be a 97 or 95..

If you leave the boot ripped, the tie rod will die within the next year. At least, if you live in a place where the salt the roads and it gets full of slushy salt all winter... I ignored it, and for a prize, I got to replace the inner tie rod at the same time. The job took me a total of $50 or less of parts online and about 45 minutes. In my garage in winter with no power tools or a torch. It's not a hard job, don't get ripped off. When I worked at a repair shop up here I had to replace just the boost from time to time. I think it cost the customer around $80, $50 for labor and $30 for the boot.

I have a 5speed d/r part time 4wd in my car. When I'm going down a hill at 5-10 mph engine braking in first gear, it jumps out of gear. This may seem like a rare thing to do, but I do it every day going up and down my driveway, so it's quite noticeable. Is this a linkage problem, or is the tranny pooched?

You hit it on the head, less piping. Also, with a custom intake manifold, it's carefully designed to flow better, etc. But no, it's not going to get much extra out of an n/a. The best you can do on an n/a is performance cams from delta.

There is actually a special tool made just for removing valve springs with the head on the engine. Never had to use on a subaru, but I had to replacing a valve spring on a jeep. Compressed air in the cylinder, and with the valve spring removal tool, it was wicked easy. Of course the head is on the top in that... But it's the same idea. valves springs are all just valve springs.

Yea, a bit to drill that out would likely cost more than a new transmission....

Mine shifts into 2nd with a bit of a bang, it has 250k miles on it, it's not showing any signs of dying. Every automatic will roll forward a bit when you put it in park. It has to roll forward or backward onto the parking pawl. If you're parking on a hill, use your parking brake. That way you're not abusing the transmission.

Well if you grind it down to the stub, there will be no more pin holding the axle on. The only thing stopping you at that point is if the splines are rusted stuck together. If you're gonna swap transmissions, why not try first before giving up. If you're set on swapping, at least mess it up beyond hope before giving up.

Just take an hour and fix it. It's gonna be easier to fix that messup than it will be to swap transmissions.

If his is anything like mine was when it rusted through and broke in half, no way is it possible to fix.

There's a concept you don't fully understand.... hahaha It's evil rust.

The auto seatbelts have their own control box in the trunk.

I'd probably go with a JY compressor myself, they don't fail very often. Just pull one out of a car that has pressure in the system. I never pull AC parts from cars that have a depressurized system, because maybe the part you want caused the system to fail Can't tell you what's compatible in 3rd gen land, but 4th gen compressors look a lot different than 3rd gens, I'd think it wouldn't work.

It depends on your ambiant temp, but if it's in the 80's out, 25 on the low side is pretty low. You're not going to see much cooling from that.

Napa sells 2-1 exhaust collectors.

You could try that... It's gonna be wicked tight working in there, though. The other thing is, diff bearing don't like a lot of love in the form of being hammered on. Correct.

If you're lucky your axles aren't stuck on all ends. If your car is like mine, the axles are rusted stuck to all splines. You have to drop the tube, diff, axles, brakes, and trailing arms as one piece. It's HEAVY doing that. And I only had a scissor jack at the time. It sucks a lot, but it's possible.

Maybe somebody will have a better idea... But, I ran through them all. And ended up just grinding everything. Just try not to bugger up the splines on the tranny too much, though.

The ea82 one is quite a bit lighter. Unlike the ea81, it doesn't have torsion bars inside. It probably weighs 30lbs. I don't remember it being heavy enough to piss me off. But yes, when you have the trailing arms, brakes, etc all attached to it. It's a heavy little sob.

Does the car run well? Do you have to pass emissions? If the answers are yes, no. Put tape over the CEL. It as the best fix I've ever done on my car...

I've had this with a transmission that I bought. It was a mess. What I ended up doing was using an angle grinder and cut the axle away where the punch was stuck. When I got down to the spline on both sides of the axle, the punch, pin, and whatever else was stuck were only going through the spline. At this point, all the tension sticking them in there was gone, and I just punched the stuck bits out, and the ground up axle came free. It's gonna suck to do in car, but you should have enough access from the bottom.

The best part is all the guys standing around in dumbstruck awe, hoping they're not the poor sucker who's gonna have to fix it.

Yes, it should.

Just remember, axle seals are right/left specific. Put them in the wrong way and it pumps gear oil out.