987687

hahah, that's awesome!

I thought the legacy ss used a push clutch, in fact, I'm quite sure it does. Regardless, to swap a push clutch car to a pull clutch transmission. You need to change the flywheel, pp, and clutch disk. Obviously need pull TOB as well. The master and slave cylinders need to be changed, too.

^^ he said the clutch cable is free, why would he go buy one?? There are a couple things it could be. One is the throw out bearing could be rusted stuck to the snout. If you take the cable off the clutch fork, can you move the fork around? If you get a light you should be able to see in the hole if you can move the TOB back and forth on the shaft. Otherwise the pressure plate could somehow be rusted up, but that's less likely. I can't really see how that would happen.

The defrost lines are fine. I've put power directly to it, and it works fine. I'll have to check the relay, I had no idea where it was, hopefully mine is in the same place as JPX's. JPX: The defrost in your car works different from mine. Yours is a toggle, when the button is pushed in, yours is always on. Mine is a momentary button, so it's on a 10min timer, then it shuts off.

^^ exactly. After the ring and pinion have been run together for many thousands of miles, if you don't keep them together, they'll shred very quickly. Just count the teeth and divide for the ratio. Easiest way to tell.

I'll wire 'em up for you! Give me a holler this weekend.

BURN OUT MODE (wide open throttle)

Is this an ea82? ea82 won't start with the pedal to the floor, that's fuel cut. For clearing a flooded engine. If it doesn't like WOT off idle it's probably a sticky IAC valve. If you unplug the IAC valve, it won't go WOT at all, it'll totally fall on it's face. So when it gets sticky and slow, it'll get studdery when you go WOT. If this isn't an efi ea82, ignore my post...

Fixed my parking brake. Again. It seems that when you (ab)use it too much it stops working

It has less to do with the size, and more to do with the price of R&D, manufacturing, etc.

The topic is like It's such a small market, and the people building up old subarus don't have that kind of cash.

I know, but I can't pass up the chance to be an rump roast about something

I think it's saw dust in a MANUAL transmission to stop gear and bearing noise. In an automatic transmission it would VERY quickly clog up the filter, clog all oil passages, and totally make the thing stop working. Anyway, I don't think sawdust is a great friction modifier PS. oil in your oil is always a good thing haha.

Ugh, I hate magic oil you pour in to band aid over problems. Just fix the problem... Just so you know, you'll still have to replace whatever seal is leaking eventually.

Been there, dealt with that. I used a grinder, though. I bought the tranny from someone with both axles still attached, with the shafts cut in half with a torch. There was a broken off punch stuck in both roll pins. One side had a punch going through each side of the roll pin. So then they gave up and torched the axles in half

:eek:

oh mine are stuck on both ends too. I took the axle nut off, and left the stub shafts on the axles.

I have the roll pins out of my axles, but the problem is they get stuck onto the stubs in the diff. Mine WILL NOT come out. PERIOD. THE END. When I did my wheel bearings I took the trailing arms off and left the axles in the diff. Annoying.

As long as neither are turbos, they should both be 3.90 ratios. I don't know anything about the automatics.

Because an aging turbo motor that has a propensity for spinning rod bearings is much more fun

Nobody?

Buy 6 1k beaters.

Can we send you a solidworks file, then have you make it? That would be sweet.

Rear defrost on my 98 Legacy GT limited stopped working almost a year ago. It's been pissing me off for a while now. It's one of the ones with a momentary button and a timer. Why it needs all that complicated crap is beyond me. But anyway, it won't work. I changed the button with one I know works. And nothing. I don't hear the relay under the dash clicking, the light on the button doesn't light up. If I apply power directly to the rear defrost it actually works. So it's some of the stupid electronics in the middle. What do I need to do to fix it? Oh, and before someone asks. No fuses are blown.

Everyone is getting all caught up in "I have a 97, but it was made in 96. And it's interference." If it's a MODEL YEAR 96, you're good. model year 97, assume interference. I don't mean manufacture date, I'm meaning model year.