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It's not that hard. Disconnect the electrical connectors, flip the assembly upside down (cable still attached). Then just take some good pliers and pull the e-clip out that holds the cable tube, and the one that holds the ring end onto the adjuster. When you drop the e-clip into the dash, take the hvac control unit to your hardware store and find the standard size metric e-clip that fits properly.

A lot of people say it's easier to disconnect from under the dash. Personally, I hate doing anything under the dash. Also, unless you pull a replacement yourself, it probably won't come with the cable. So you'll have to do it on the top end anyway.

Nope, you guys shouldn't feel alone, another home d'potter here.

That's cool, I guess. I don't really care if the valve guides are worn. If it still runs and drives reliably, that's all I care about. heh. It's a stupid DD that sort of just works. And as long as it just keeps working, I'll be happy I basically hate working on cars, and I've changed the engine, rear end, and all that kind of annoying stuff. And I don't want to fix it anymore.

Are you so sure? Mine doesn't do it if I put it in 3rd gear (auto) down hills, and it ONLY does it after sitting a while.

Yea, I was thinking that, too.

I have a 98LGT with a 2.2 that has 150k miles swapped in. It has a weird problem with blowing blue smoke. The only time it ever blows smoke is after it sits for 2 or more days without being driven. It doesn't burn any, leak any, etc. It also doesn't sit much as it's my DD, but lately I've been driving the GL for work related stuff. So I fired up the Legacy today, and BLUUUUUUE comes out of the tailpipe. It always clears up within about 10 seconds, and never returns till it sits again. I've replaced the PCV valve and made sure none of the PCV hoses are plugged up.

Why? Is it not starting? Or is it setting one of the starter relay codes? More info on what's going on will help. There's the starter solenoid on the starter, if that's what you mean.

WHAT?! Oh come on, that's ridiculous. RockAuto absolutely rules. As with buying parts anywhere, make sure what you're buying is good quality. But RockAuto supplies all the info and part numbers on products so you can easily research them.

Yep, there's the lever by the seat. And if the cable is rusted and stopped working like mine, you just have to use a key... But if you don't have the key, fold down the rear seat, reach into the trunk, and move the rod by hand. It will pop the trunk open. It's a very simple tumbler, so it's really easy to re-key to the ignition key.

It would be my DD the day I bought it. I do have a lifted GL, but it makes a really lousy DD. I took it as my DD on a 1200 mile trip, spent 4 months working there, and drove home. NEVER AGAIN! Hah. I've never heard of the tranny shifter kit. Interesting, I'd want to do that for sure. I'd really want to swap a 4.44 into it, because the one in my LGT is pretty awesome. Even with 250k it's pretty nice. My LGT is up for sale again, so if that sells, which I'd be sad about... I'll peruse while DDing my GL. But that's just an idea... I'm skitzo when it comes to what I want with cars. It seems like these are better cars than I thought. Hah. One thing I do need to look up, and this should be on the svx board, is what years had what tranny. Like the 3.54 vs. 3.90, etc. What SVX forum should I look at? http://svxworldforums.com/ or http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/.

Hmm, they're just an awesmoe car. Called up a local glass place that did my legacy. They said :eek::eek: $1200 + :eek::eek: For an svx windshield replacement. Now I know why he's selling a pretty nice one so cheap.

Hmm, thanks for the input. The one I'm looking at hs a good trans. But needs a windshield. I figured they were expensive, but damn. I should call a glass place and ask. And then get glass insurance... Ideally I'd put a 4.44 auto in there. I really dislike dealing with EJ wheel bearings... And that has 5x114.3 hubs. So legacy or whatever stuff wouldn't swap. I should check the svx board. Thanks for the input.

So I want to sell my perfectly good 98 LGT and buy an SVX. The rear seats fold down, which is basically my criteria for a sedan. I know they have tranny issues, but whatever. I can swap a tranny. Why shouldn't I buy an SVX? What is there to know, that I don't know, that will talk me out of a horrible life decision. I like rare cars with hard to find parts that are hard to work on. There's something wrong with me. Help me out here, guys.

That's a lot in parts. And how does it possibly cost that much in labor?

I've seen it posted on here before. It just annoys me because it's silly not to maintain something that works. And yes, auto trans is probably the most neglected thing on a car. That and the brake system.

To change the filter you have to drop the pan anyway. I didn't, just because I didn't feel like it. But I'm probably going to this summer. On the last change it's a good idea to drop the pan, change the filter, and clean the magnet. If the magnet is saturated with metal, it won't collect anymore. So as stuff wears, there's more and more metal circulating the transmission. I'm not in the camp of "if it's working don't maintain it". That's just dumb. If it's working well change the fluid and take care of the damn thing. It's like saying "my engine has 200k and it runs well, so I'm not going to change the oil anymore". If changing the fluid and filter disturbs the transmission and makes it stop working, it was messed up to begin with. And be glad it died in your driveway rather than 500 miles from home. Mine is 500 miles shy of 250k and running damn fine. Why should I stop maintaining it now? I don't want to change it, I'll take care of it till the end.

On the highway, it probably is. I run AC when it's hot because driving over about 50 with a window open drives me nutts.

It depends on how and where the rod broke, and how it went through the block. There's a chance it breaks through an oil gallery, jams the motor up, breaks the crank, etc. Or it could break in such a way it will still run on 3 cylinders for a little while. One way to figure out what it is, drive it at full throttle until it stops driving. Then whatever broke was the problem

You really don't want to seize the engine. If you keep driving it, it will put a rod through the block and be seized... It just makes it a real pain to get disconnected from the auto if you can't get at least one revolution out of the motor.

It sounds like he's trying to tighten the bolt, that only works for cracking it loose. And yes, I've used this method with success. Although it's probably not your first option if you need to get it off, use something a little more controlled to begin with. For tightening I usually just use a good strap wrench on the crank pully. It can hold enough to put a pretty good amount of torque on the bolt.

I saw that last week on http://jalopnik.com/. I wondered how long it would take to show up here. hah. Sure it ran... But for how long. And that interior has gotta be really nasty.

Merc/dextron II is what you want. People have mixed opinions on the tranny flush. They say it can dislodge gummed up stuff and create blockages. I've never done it, though. So no personal experience there.

Yes. You just don't want any point-loading on the pan

My tires are almost 27", and I can lock all four on dry pavement