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Even a high compression 2.5 with lots of mods is just barely touching on 200hp... In an ea81? good luck!

If you're going to post pictures from facebook, right click on the image and do "copy image URL". We don't all have access to your facebook page.

A switch for the fuel pump? This is a bad idea, you don't want the fuel pump running all the time with the ignition. If you crash, or somehow get a fuel leak in the engine bay and it catches fire. You don't want the fuel pump pumping more fuel to the fire when the engine is already off.

If it's anything besides a paved driveway (gravel, dirt, etc.), I'd put plywood under the jack stands. Otherwise they can sink in and the car can tip.

That's how my GL is, it's nice. My legacy is two pieces, the header, and the rest. It sucks. haha.

I'd probably replace the torque converter seal. If it's dried out and leaks, it'll really suck to find out after the tranny is in the car.

Napa should have flanges you can just weld on. It's nice having a system with flanges. When one piece breaks for whatever reason. Rust, run over a rock, whatever. You can just unbolt and bolt on a new part. Otherwise you've gotta drop everything and weld it back together. What a pain.

Between ebay an amazon, there's not much you can't buy sitting on your rump roast clicking a button

Fixed the AC in my Legacy. It works awesomely now.

^^ Every time I replace an axle, or fix anything on that side of the car under the hood. I end up pulling off the side of the road and reconnecting that damn vacuum line. They could have made it longer and actually routed it in a sensible way... I vote for that being the problem, too.

I use the lines because it's easy. Sometimes the lines are half a tooth off, though. So it helps to know which marks are on half teeth. But i still always count the teeth. It takes an extra minute, and it's a good way to know you've done it right.

Move to Maine.... It's not uncommon at all for them to rust out and start leaking. Actually, don't move to Maine.

Only one seal? Wow, my old one leaked from EVERY seal. The one in there now is better, both mechanically and leakly. It's easier to keep topping it up than it is to replace the seals... That's for sure.

Snowflakes aren't that uncommon. They're stock on every GT model from 97 to 2004... I've bought and sold a few sets though, they sell damn fast! I'm currently sitting on a set I got for $100, nice shape. I need to move them though, they suck for winter wheels. They get jammed with snow. I can move them for around $250 easy. Also, the main reason I don't paint them is there's so much surface area to sand and paint. UGH!

If you have any doubt with a timing belt, count the number of teeth between each timing mark on the sprockets. That's the only way to be 100% sure it's on right.

Just take the fill tube off in a parts store parking lot and bring it in. Napa has an index of o-rings. They'll just match them up to the right size. It'll cost you $1.50. That's what I did. No reason to order.

Also make sure the parking brake cable isn't sticking.

Yea, don't go dumping any crap in the engine. It's going to cause more problems. Don't let the shop do so either. A proper timing belt job is oil pump, cam, and crank seals. And replacing the waterpump and all the idlers. If one of those steps wasn't done, take it back until it's done. It should definitely not leak out the front of the engine after a timing belt job. That's ridiculous. Since it wasn't fixed right, get your money back, or have them do it right.

I have two cars, one has an ea81, one has an early ej22. Both swapped in. And both came with the worst two engines subaru ever made, the ea82 and the DOHC 2.5. haha. The ea81 is a really great engine. It'll take abuse similar to a jeep 4.0 and not blink an eye.

Nothing wrong with using an EJ over an EA for a daily. I quite like daily driving my legacy, I think it's more comfortable than a GL could possibly be... Until they release a GL with reasonable head and leg room, that's quiet, has decent power, and has leather interior. I'm gonna daily my 2nd gen leg. hah.

Interesting, where I was driving there were signs entering the beach saying be off by dark.

I've never had an outer tie rod not come out. Sometimes it takes more hitting with a hammer than others. But I work on super rusty cars up here, they all come loose. Some inner rods have the notch in them, some have a flat side with a wider washer. They usually come with the correct washer for the application.

Brakes shouldn't be squishy. They're pretty firm in my 89. If you're sure you have all the air out of the system, something else is tired. Rubber lines can get old and bulge a bit when you hit the brakes, that'll cause squishy. Master cylinder can leak past the rings and make the brakes not work right.

It might be hard to paint, but it will weld to steel just fine. I had a welder tell me that if you're using gas, just use stainless wire when welding steel. That way your welds won't rust, and you don't have to change spools to weld stainless. And yea, I agree, that's a pretty expensive sheet of metal there. I think I paid around $40 or $50 for a 3'x4' sheet of steel that size, so stainless is easily double.

You're not supposed to drive on the beach at night. But beaches are great at night. I've lived for many years in the tropics. And I've spent many a night walking the beach.