Ricearu

did you have the crank polished/machined?

1stsubaruparts.com 35 each plus shipping but negligible if you add the water pump gasket an other goodies. if you can't find the part, call them, It's called Walker's Renton Subaru.

it's the 610 gaskets.

You need to swap over your new (hopefully dealer or stant xactstat) to your new water pump. If your engine is interference, you better damn well replace the water pump and idlers. :cool: OEM AISIN water pumps can be had from rockauto for pretty cheap. I would do the timing belt by the timing marks. If your engine is interference, the timing marks are the safe zone with all the pistons in the center of their bores. also if you have a DOHC, make sure you spin only one cam at a time or the valves can hang together. They are valve to valve interference.

It's is easy to die from it, because if there is enough it shuts down your kidneys. A/C refrigerant when burned produces phosgene gas, that's why you don't smoke when charging/servicing air conditioners

you could rebuild it, and have the block decked true.

just install the carrier bearing and front driveshaft section from the awd car. easy peasy. I have put 10k on my current legacy sedan just like this.

what kind of spark plugs are in it? subaru engines also HATE bosch platinums. they are junk. grab a junkyard ignitor and try that first. they rarely RARELY fail, so likelyhood of a junkyard one working is really high.

that is definately a line. now on the problem, have you replaced your ignition coil? it could be failing with heat, so a cold test could not show a problem. the p0303 is cyl 3 misfire, and p0304 is cyl 4 misfire, and they are both driven by the same pole on the coil. You could also have junk wires on it. Dealer spark plug wires are WAY better than aftermarkets, although I have had good luck with NGK wires, there is no way in gods green earth I would buy house brand wires. Check at night, open the hood, and look for blue "sparks" jumping from either of the rear two spark plug cables with the engine running. Watch out for belts and such. :cool: WITH ENGINE OFF, You can also pull one rear spark plug wire off at a time and check it for dark spots or abrasions. A dark spot around a pinhole is from carbon building up every time the spark "jumps" to somewhere on the engine.

Thanks for the reply shawn, I got an answer from my machinist today when I dropped off everything. He said the old one's were in great shape but he would vat and check them but the wrist pins fit nice, and the skirts aren't too worn. just light scuffing.

It could be that dealer head gaskets were not used when replaced. or the heads were out of spec and not resurfaced...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/97-99-Subaru-Forester-Impreza-Legacy-2-5L-EJ25-DOHC-Pistons-w-Rings-/370618892329?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item564a9b8029&vxp=mtr The price is definately right. And with NPR rings. mine are scuffed on the skirts. Although these motors are sweet. Crosshatch is nice. Would you guys just clean the pistons up and put them back? I am glad I split the case and checked the rod bearings. They aren't toast, but they sure aren't long for this world either.

I have been abusing my harbor freight engine hoist for about 5 years. It cost me $140 new. I have pulled chevy v8's with transmissions still attached, as well as MANY subaru engines. Heck, with a subie engine, it doesn't even break a sweat. I just tie a old seat belt to the lift point on the rear passenger side of the engine and through the lift point on the A/C bracket and never had a problem.

The VSS will wig out the tcu and cause funny shift points. It's gonna shift hard. My 96 sedan had torque bind and i removed the rear section of the driveshaft and it will light the front right tire up if I am on it shifting into second. I find it entertaining. :cool:

cool good luck. I can say beyond a shadow of a doubt (in my mind) that a NTK is WAYYY better than a bosch or most others. I have had superb luck with them. Oh yeah, and there isn't a way to clean them. Usually when they fail, the element inside has died.

shop may have pressed the bearing incorrectly and distorted the hub or bearing. It's pretty easy to mess up. Or, Maybe your bearing has the wrong thickness... shooting at the breeze here.

http://www.rockauto.com O2 sensors NTK brand (good) are $68 each. It shows the same sensor upstream and downstream.

I dump my oil in a 55 gallon drum, and when it's full, a guy I know will drive out, pick it up, and leave an empty drum where it stands. I have been careless with coolant a few times and left it out and it was "rained" out of the drain pan, but a local auto shop will take it by the 5 gallon buckets. I am told that it is a violation of federal law to abandon it at a shop or parts store. I can say that at least I am not my grandpa. He used to dig a hole, drain, and bury oil... that's great for the ground water supply... My friend doug has ran an air cooled vee dub shop since the 80's and in 2007 he was cited by the EPA for rinsing parts outside. They made him dig 6 feet down in a 20x20 area and replace the dirt and have the old soil treated and disposed of

I paid 28 for mine, and have since switched to stant x-act stats. they are literally identical.

see what ivan wants for his, he has several. shipping will likely be kind of high but worth it if you get 3 or 4 of them.

yeah, ECT short to ground tells the computer it is something like -40* lol. plays hell on an engine in 90+* weather.

yeah it's the more expensive one, just like the regular cheap purolator filter isn't made by wix but the purolator pure one is.

Between Alvarado and waxahachie. Right by midlothian

Rotella is a high detergent oil and will clean the engine as you drive it. If you feel that the engine is "sludgy" then change the oil at 1500 miles for two changes. Use a wix, purolator pure one or Napa gold filter. They are made by wix. No stop leak. Fix the leak. Stop leak can stop up oil passages up if there is enough. Also, stop leak will leave behind sludge. Just using the heavier oil should help. Check the valve cover gaskets for drips. They are stupid simple to change.

your cam is stuck, because you have inadvertently interfered the valves. The DOHC engines are valve to valve interferance and if one set of valves are open, then the other set will interfere if the cams are turned. by the way, you have a blown head gasket. do a top end rebuild. use dealer head gaskets and have the heads resurfaced, torque to spec. If the valves have interfered, try to get them apart and have them pressure checked by the machine shop that resurfaces the heads and if no, then you will need to replace the valves in that head that don't seal. Pretty inexpensive but may be necessary.