Nug

Could be a ground issue, as said before, or it could be like Skip said and there is A/C current coming from the alternator from bad diodes. When you get your multimeter back, put it on A/C volts and see what you get with the car running.

Yeah, I had a u-joint fail on my jeep, at 70 mph. It beat the snot out of the muffler and the body underneath.

Check the screw holding the rotor on.

Yes, I know about Fram filters. I'm interested to see if anyone else has had a Fram vacuum modulator fail.

I still don't have any pictures... But I was serious about the Babe rally. http://www.baberally.com I've paid the registration fee, and my sister and I are going. I'm going to fix the brakes, turn signals, and muffler so it will pass inspection, and that's it. Damn the oil consumption and slipping clutch. If anyone has a semi-good clutch disc lying around, I'll paypal you $5 plus shipping (you know, in case I have to pull the engine and replace the clutch in a hotel parking lot. I'm not above doing that.)

I put together a 199x loyale and sold it to a friend that really needed a car. It's had some common trouble, leaking seals, blown muffler, whatever. When I got my hands on it initially, it was kinda low on transmission fluid and it smoked. All of the vacuum lines were full of ATF. New modulator from Advance, manufactured (or at least branded by) Fram fixed the problem. He calls me up (a year later) and mentioned that it was shifting funny. The car was down a quart of ATF. Car smoked. Vacuum lines full of ATF. WTH? Subaru parts only for this app? No dealers within 60 miles of me.

Don't forget the screw holding the rotor on.

You guys are pretty sharp. One freeze plug in each head had popped out. NAPA can only get them in boxes of 15, but it was only like $5 so I ordered them. It's officially for sale. Anyone interested?

Hot Rod magazine was doing some wind tunnel testing, and found that the nastiest primer paint job had the exact CD as something that was all waxed up.

Wow, that's some heinous rust.

I drained the coolant/oil out of the engine, and drained the coolant tubes. Added about three quarts of oil (I needed it to run for about 2 minutes). And it wouldn't start. Fuel pump not coming on. Found some bad connections ( never, ever use scotchlocks for anything important, please), fixed them. Still no fuel pump. Jump relay, fuel pump clicks. It's locked up because the fuel went stale. Smells like varnish. Great. Trip to Advance Auto. Picked up inline fuel pump for 83 Ford Crown Vic. $83.xx, and some Berryman's fuel system cleaner (the 1st ingredient is toluene) an oil filter and a toggle switch. 5 gallons fresh gas. Install pump. Relay probably dead, went back to jumping it. Fuel pump works, no start. Injector not firing. Rob SPFI fuel injector off of spare manifold. Car starts. All of this just to get it in the garage. It was raining the whole time too. I should have just stayed in bed.

You could do like the Butler crew and run...absolutely no exhaust whatsoever. I don't recommend it though.

I will as soon as my shop is free of dodge pickup. May be a week or so, though.

Waits patiently for pages to finish scanning.

I'm not even sure if the radiator has been 'solved'. let's face it. We didn't really think this one through.

I hope that's all it is. Currently I have a stupid dodge dakota and a hurricane katrina-riddled Harley Sportster clogging my shop, so it'll be a week or so before I can push it in there and drop the engine.

During initial testing, it had only water in it. This was drained before any freeze, however, there may have been some in the block. I guess I'll find out. Pics? You don't want pics. The ea82 is a poor choice for this swap. You have to cut out tons of material to get that wide rump roast thing to fit. Much better to stick with an EA81 or in my case, the EJ22.

...coolant and oil started pouring out of the valve cover breathers. Sonofa... Anyway, the car had been severely overheated at some point and then taken off of the road, and then it sat at my house for over a year. Recent events spurred interest in reviving it. I hope it's just a blown head gasket.

I knew someone was gonna call me on that!

As long as the crankcase ventilation system is in good shape, I doubt there will ever be a point when crankcase pressure gets high enough to 'blow out' the seal.

Considering that the cylinder is a steel liner, I'd run it. Sure, it looks scary, and there may be an eventual failure. But if the coolant temp is held in check, then I doubt there will ever be a problem if driven normally.

If everything else seems fine, pump whine on (very) cold startup wouldn't really concern me. Unless it was really loud. Guess I'd have to be there.

On older Legacies, there was a place under the hood, toward the right rear (like you were sitting in the driver's seat) of the engine compartment for one to put a 10 amp fuse. This would disable AWD. Try this (If equipped) and tell us what it does. It's safe to do this, won't hurt anything.

Trying to get it though tech at BUG OUT is part of the goal. Confusing people is exactly my point lol.

On building your own manifolds, I guess what I would do is make templates to fit the bottom of the carb and the mounting pad on the head, carve them from 3/8 aluminum, and then find some thick walled aluminum tubing to make the runners. Thick walled so you can take a die grinder and sort of hand shape the ports. Or something. It makes sense in MY head...