Nug

TDI's can twist up to like 5 grand. But you want cruising rpm lower, or you will lose that delicious economy. You could probably make up for it with larger diameter tires.

****er. Happy April 1st.

I'd have a hard time admitting that my car smells like butt crack.

Fixed

What gave you this idea?

This type is sensitive to things like jumpstarting and such. They are easy to burn out. I'd avoid these.

If you want to do more testing yourself, do a compression test, then a leakdown test, like The Dude recommended. Here's a link about leakdown testing.

I wouldn't worry too much about the leak between the engine and trans. There is something on the back of the engine that likes to leak, but I'm not aware of leaks in that location really smellin' everything up. Yeah, subarus can leak a lot when they get some miles on them. When you get your timing belt replaced, also replace the front crank seal, and the two cam seals. These seem to be major culprits. Finally, inspect the inner CV joint boots. They split and slop grease all over the exhaust.

I would inspect the PCV system and make sure everything is clean and all the hoses are in good shape and not clogged up. New OEM PCV valve. If the crankcase pressure is high, it will force oil out of seals, or past the rings.

The EJ is fairly difficult to wire up. I have not wired a MPFI EA engine, so I can't compare the two. I have a EJ22 in the back of a '74 standard beetle. The engine is preloaded against the body via a brace bolted to the bottom of the engine. This is absolutely necessary if the car is going to be driven agressively at all. I had bracing on there with the stock vw engine. I have not had any problems (yet) with a stock vw tranny filled with synthetic gear oil. I did shatter a cv joint, but that was without the engine brace, and I had a lot of shudder when accelerating agressively from a stop. No problems right now. You might want to figure out a method of cushioning the engine brace against the body, otherwise a lot of noise and vibration will be transmitted to the inside of the car. The ej isn't significantly heavier. Ground clearance may be an issue. Mine is armored. Finally, the EJ's are some of subaru's best engines, and they will run hard for a long time.

Keep in mind the ea82 is much, much wider than the EJ. You may have clearance problems. I vote EJ.

The isuzu engine out of the P'up model is perfect in every way.

If the crankshaft snout and keyway are not damaged, a new woodruff key and harmonic balancer will fix it. I've repaired one that had a chunk taken out of the keyway. Slathered everything with loctite 609 (?, dark green, locks gears onto shafts) and torqued it with a new bolt. Never moved again.

Don't put it in the back of a bug. It is too wide, and you have to cut too much stuff. Seriously. Opt for EJXX or EA81 instead.

Some people shouldn't have welders.

Maybe water in the fuel system that is now frozen?

Are the plugs fresh? Gapped correctly? It can take a lot to get fuel to ignite at those temperatures. Worn plugs with huge gaps aren't helping anyone.

Camshaft position sensor replacement: Unplug connector Remove bolt Remove sensor. Installation is the opposite of reverse.

Mmm, showing up looks a little brighter, I'll be in the RX if I still have it.

**** happens.

:-p I have no idea.

I welded a pan on a K-car that had a gouge and was leaking actively. Shop vac is duct taped to oil fill, keeps oil from leaking out. I used a mig welder, but a quick little zap from an arc welder shouldn't hurt anything.

Wow man, that totally sucks. It was on the road for what? Two weeks? Bastards.

Fan resistor pack. They burn out a lot.

I'm blue collar...and i wouln't trust any bastards like myself, either.