Nug

If you think it's flooded, pull the ecu fuse and crank it for about 20 seconds with the throttle on the floor. To get starting fluid in...can you open the air cleaner housing? Spray about 2 seconds worth on top of the filter then snap it back shut.

Did you do just 1 headgasket? Was that head milled? Did you adjust the valves afterward?

It is definately (edit) at least120lb-ft. 90 is insufficient, and will loosen, possibly damaging the crank and balancer. Loctite it if you wish, I did on mine.

I'd just take a small file and knock any sharp edges off of that crack. I wouldn't worry about it.The way I did cam seals was to take a very small drillbit and a cordless drill, and drill a small hole in the face of the seal. You need to hit the metal part of the seal. A small wood screw can be threaded in, and then you can pull and pry on the screw with a pair of channel locks. Works great.

It was real simple, wasn't it? Those are the best ones.

You need a muffler to pass inspection in VA. So when my friends come to me looking for an exhaust fix, they get a glasspack tacked onto the end of their exhaust system. Buick 3.8's sound good through a Thrush glasspack.

Mine showed up at 7:30 pm tonight. Weird. Anyway, since someone stole my Tacoma, these will have to wait, seeing as how the RX now gets put into daily driver status and I can't take it apart and leave it that way, if I had to. Sux.

What he said.

Truth is, these things leak from a number of different places. You really need to figure out where it's coming from first, then we can tell you what to do.

Richmond here. Welcome!

Paid already, Mike said he was sending it out. This was several days ago. I'll call again today.

Yes.

$10 bux says you broke an axle. $10 bux says you broke an axle. $10 bux says you broke an axle.

My header and downpipe still haven't arrived.

I'd bore it out. Especially if I wanted to make the most power possible, and didn't wanna burn oil. It'll run the way it is, if you don't want to spend the money. Is that a crank jounal in the next pic? I'd definately have that polished.

They are really easy to work on once you get in there, aren't they?

As long as there is no detonation, you'll be fine. premium gas is critical.

Yeah, that one gets old.

Make sure the latest OEM head gaskets are used for the repair, or you will be inviting trouble.

Someone should have a good used tranny around here. Post your request in the marketplace. An indy shop might do the install for around $500.

OK, ok, you need to check out a lot of other stuff before you get to the ecu. But if you had spark and no injection at the same time, I'd be leary. Edit: Check the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors and their related circuitry very carefully. Also, ecu power supply.

Sometimes, the ecu will get a crack in a board. Temperature fluctuations in the board cause it to flex, momentarily making contact. This is rare, however, if for whatever reason you had a spare lying about, you could swap it in and see what happens.

At WOT, the engine produces NO vacuum. I would suspect another vacuum leak somewhere, as it seems the vacuum canister is being "drained" of vacuum before the throttle is closed again. My RX does this.

The cam position sensor is simply held in by one bolt. Cakewalk. Sometimes, getting the cam pulley off can be difficult. The easiest method is zipping it off with an impact wrench. You don't even need to hold the pulley. If you don't have an impact, go get a Craftsman strap wrench. You don't want to mar the pulley, the strap wrench is made of plastic and is tough enough to hold the pulley without damaging anything. Change the water pump. They are relatively inexpensive. They are also driven by the timing belt. If your current water pump lets go, then that means disassembling the front of your engine again. I think the 2.5 is interference, so if the belt breaks, the engine is toast. And that would suck.