Nug

Where's your sense of adventure?

They got old VWs to run with twin Weber 48mm IDA's. Anything is possible.

They are kinda like dirtbikes. You get one, and soon enough, there are four hanging out in your garage.

You can twist it up all day long and not hurt anything. They like to rev.

If you had 10 psi of boost running through that carb and into your engine, it would work out well. Or if you were twisting it up to 10,000 rpm. It would look cool, though.

My mom got railed by a fullsize pickup. She was waiting to turn, he had fallen asleep. Rearended her at 55 mph. She walked away. '95 legacy wagon.

http://www.paeco.com has clutches. You will have a heart attack when you figure out how much they are, though.

And condense on the sides of the transmission case, and return to the oil. Change it. Water is a crappy lubricant.

Historically, compression numbers are supposed to be within a 10% difference of each other. Of course, after I say that, I think it's 20%. I forget. Anyway, those numbers seem acceptable.

Good Lord man, that avatar is hideous. I laugh whenever I see it.

I''ve got a machinist I trust. Want me to give him a call?

Chesterfield auto parts in Richmond. Any engine in yard, $100 plus $25 core. Can it be sleeved?

Rust is really abrasive. While the engine would certainly run, and the rings would remove it in seconds, it does nothing for the life of the engine. The correct thing to do would be to disassemble the engine, hone the rust out, clean, and reassemble. What you actually do you can take to the grave, if you don't want to admit it. The engine will run either way.

If a valve (especially exhaust) does not seat correctly (due to valve guide wear) or fully (due to incorrect lash adjustment) it will overheat. Overheat warps it. Superheated exhaust gas leaks by, like an inefficient cutting torch. Eventually, a pie slice-shape is missing from the tulip of the valve=no compression=sucks.

W3rd. I like Cummins RTV also, it's thicker than regular ultra grey. Hondabond *gasp* is awesome, also.

The interior is black, its got the checkerboard seats and seatbelts.

Five o-clockish, southbound 95, slow lane. A lifted, first-gen wagon, yellow, "tonka" word and graphics on the sides. Bush '04 sticker on back. Dude wearing sunglasses. <----Purple tacoma swerving into your lane while attempting to take camera phone pics. Sorry 'bout that.

I wonder if Meeky Moose has a pic of it. You all know how timely I am about taking pictures.

Impact driver much?

Yep, the 85 RX has some nice oxidation going on. I'm not sure what color it's supposed to be, it's a dark gray/black with a little metallic. Anyway, anyone have suggestions for what color it should be? Photoshopped examples would be appreciated. Also, is there a source anywhere for fresh decals? The stockers look horrid. Should I peel them off and forget it?

The british did a damn fine job of making a 5000lb (?) car handle really, really good. You could push it waaay over the edge, and a quick check of the wheel brought her right back. A fine car, with worthless oil seals, a penchant for rust, and terrible electrics.

There are two dowel pins aligning the engine and tranny. You might need to smack these with a pin punch and hammer to disturb them, corrosion can make them hold very, very tight.

I took mine on a 1000 mile trip. It used 12 quarts of 60 weight. Granted, we (my sister and I) were pushing it, cruising all day at 80-85 mph. The car had over 200k.

If I go, I plan on breaking mine while I'm up there, then trying to drive it home like that. I contemplated driving the subaru bug up there last year, but I was afraid it was gonna break. I thought about packing my mig welder in the back. I ended up towing it.

So the fuel pump comes on when you turn on the key, and stays on while cranking, right? And it has spark? Are your injectors firing?