Nug

Post a wheelie shot. I know it's capable!

Illustration?

Theoretically, at lower power levels, the wategate flapper could be off of its seat indefinately without damage. Also, I think, theoretically, if the engine was under heavy load, and the exhaust gas temp was very high, an unseated flapper could get red hot in a matter of seconds. depending on what it was made of would determine whether or not it was damaged.

The oil pump seals/front crankshaft seal can be replaced with engine in car. The cam towers are tricky, but it can be done. New tensioners are never a bad idea. The water pump is up to you, it can be replaced with the engine in the car without having to remove the timing covers. Finally, the ticking doesn't really hurt anything. Yes, it's less than ideal, and it's hella annoying, but it doesn't really hurt anything.

I'm thinking EJ swap.

I went and looked at it. Mwahahaha! There is hardly any rust, one dent in the middle of the bed on the passenger side. Single range 4 speed. The only thing that doesn't work, apparently, is the a/c. T-tops. Moldy interior. The guy wants me to pay him $150 for the brat and about $40 for the purolator clicker pump he got to replace the stocker. Whatever. $200 brat that's worth every penny. My friend Robby will probably ultimately get it, cuz the trans in his Ranger blew, and we can't find an affordable replacement. I haven't picked it up yet. The guy still has a bunch of stuff in it that he wanted to clean out first.

I called him up. He seems to be very concerned that I take possession of it this weekend. It sounds more like he reeeeally needs $150. I think the plan is to install the fuel pump, drive it away from there, take it to the family farm which is around 3 miles away, and ditch it until I can figure out what to do with it. Does anyone know where the fuel pump is located on a Brat? Nevermind, i searched and found the answer.

When wiring mine up, i used an analog voltmeter set at a very low voltage to check various sensors. I wasn't interested in numbers, but movement of the needle. A pulsating needle at the crank, cam sensors, and to and from the ecu/ignitor proved all of these components were functioning.

Code 12 Starter switch- Pin 10 on connector B56 of the ECU should connect to the start terminal of the ignition switch, or the starter solenoid. It needs to have 12v at it when the engine is cranking. Not while it's running, and not when it's off, just cranking. Next, ECU outputs to the ignitior: Pins 9 and 10 on connector F47 both provide a signal to the ignitor. Make sure pin 15 is connected to the ignitor as well, and is ALSO grounded. I had a bad connection right here. The flowchart from the FSM suggests that if you do not have a signal from both terminals 9 and 10 from connector F47, then either there is a poor connection between the ecu and ignitor, or the ecu is faulty.

Year, condition, rust, interior all unknown. I haven't called the guy yet, nor have i even seen the car in a year. I'm buying it sight unseen. That's why i said, "That's all for now." Maybe I'll see it/get some pics this weekend or something.

I think the LSD on my RX is fairly worn, and i might be interested in rebuilding it at some point.

At that mileage, all your seals are gonna blow soon anyway (no one can tell me it's not gonna start leaking) so I don't see a problem with it.

I'm leaning toward the ignitor also. I had one go bad in my bug, two cylinders just flat out died. It still had enough power to go 70mph.

I haven't studied the car in etail since my friend had it. I know it's got a dent on the side from where it's spare tire was on the second floor of an office building, was rolled down the steps, and the person who was supposed to catch it just got out of the way.

I remember riding around in it a little when I was around 16-17. We hated it because it was so damn slow. Friends and I prefered the justy. That at least would spin a tire.

I'm in Richmond. There are a few of us floating around here.

I approached this guy outside of work at a gas station. He was driving a familiar looking brat. The same brat my friend's family had while we were in high school. Also, this guy works at the same military base I work at, although in different areas. This was about a year ago. So today he approached me and said, "You wanna buy my brat? $150. The fuel pump went out, i have another one, but no one will work on it." So I said yes. That is all, for now.

Done it with a N/A EJ22. Whoo, the car is fun. If it'll ever hook up, I bet it would wheelie. It's violent! Hooking the turbo up will undoubtably be a little more difficult, because of space constraints, but who cares? You will need to get a stronger tranny, and cv joints, or run swingaxles. Period. I've broken the stock cv joints. Need to upgrade to porsche 930's.

Bricks/wood are a bad idea also. They can crumble. Just get some jackstands and use them. C'mon.

What torque is the LSD supposed to slip at? Also, are there rebuild parts available (clutch packs, etc)?

You remove the axle from the car because it's 100,000 times easier to work on when it's on a bench.Removing axles become easier the more times you do it.

Change it when it's convienent. You can drive it. (If you did nothing at all and never changed it, you probably would never have a problem.)

I second the notion that the Chilton's manual is a complete waste of paper. It's the most obtuse thing I've ever read.

I'm thinking the only way this is possible is if a rag or something was left in the intake or exhaust. Did whatever it was end up in the turbo? I'm thinking a rag got wedged in the exhaust side of the turbo.