Nug

Don't use an ea82. You'll have to carve a lot of metal out of the back of that bug. If it was a '75 super, then I'd say go ahead. But you would be mangling a '59 'vert. Use an EA81, EJ18, EJ20, EJ22, EJ25. You can probably cram the turbo up in there somewhere, if you wanted to go w/ wrx engine.

I'll give ya $20 for one.

Leaking intake gasket? That wouldn't explain one cylinder, though.

I can bring 2 EA82 shortblocks (good), and a blown up EJ22 longblock.

I'm gonna go against the grain here. I believe that the valvejob+old rings=oil consumption theory hardly applies to newer engines. With that out of the way, you should have the engine leakdown tested to isolate any problem with the base engine. If the leakdown test shows valve leakage, then I would have a valve job done.

In this case, the crankshaft pulley. Also known as a harmonic balancer, it cancels out torsional vibrations from the crankshaft. For some reason, they like to come loose on these engines. Check all parts for wear. I'd replace the bolt, use red loctite (or 671? Dark Green, sleeve retaining) and torque to 100ft/lbs. The spec is something like 90ft/lbs. Some of us have been creeping that torque spec up because of this problem.

I wish the towbar I ordered for the VW would hurry up and get here...

I am pretty sure I will be there, with the snotrocket in tow.

Does it do it in turns? If so, I'd say torque bind. If not, I think you might have a u-joint going bad, or a bad cv joint.

Uh, I'm not sure I agree with that. I'd still test #4 and make sure there is no problem.

Apparently, all 2.5's are subject to headgasket failures.

The hitch I ordered for the Yoda needs to hurry up and get here.

Header wrap good. Custom s*** also good.

I'd leakdown test #4 and figure out where your compression is going before I worried about anything else.

They have a left hand drill/easy out combination tool at sears. The drill and extractor are one piece, and they come in a 4 pack, 4 different sizes. I have got a regular easy-out to work maybe three times in my entire life, and the two times I used the sears/craftsman tool, it worked.

put the rim on the car, let all the air out, and drive in circles until it breaks the bead. Then use a crowbar. Ask how I know this.

I guess I should have it done. I'd sort of lost interest, but if it ended up working, well, hey, that'd be cool! I have a pair of ea82T heads here, one with a pretty gnarly crack. Anyone wanna put them on an engine after I get them semi-hemi cut?

Chainsaws are useless, in case anyone was wondering.

Spark plugs are like oil. It doesn't really matter what you put in there, as long as you replace it occasionally.

I plan on towing the snotrocket. I don't want my baby breaking down somewhere and me having to leave it.

Nope, can't adjust timing. ECU handles everything. If you wanted a timing retard system (for more boost or N2O), you can step up to a MSD DIS-2 with an add-on retard controller. Spark plug gap? I don't know.

HA!!!!!!!!!!!!! My neighbors have a legacy that, after having it detailed, the parking lights were on and the battery died. It's still sitting out in front of their house. Maybe I should tell them.

Um, the big wire goes straight to the battery. The other two, well, I just twisted them together and hooked them up to ignition+. One of them is the tickler, the other goes to the warning light. I'm not using a warning light, i'm using a voltmeter. It seems to work fine. And it doesn't drain the battery. After studying the schematic for a while, I figured that the tickler and the warning light wire both need vlotage at them. So I'm assuming I did it correctly.

I started doing something about it, but there were a few things I actually liked. Sooooo, what do you want to try? Unshrouding the valves? Changing the shape altogether? Gimmee some ideas. I have a pair of ea82T heads right here, for the sole purpose of modifying.

1,2, and 21 should have switched 12 volts. From the ignition switch. You might not want them directly off the switch, but through relays. You should include fuses. IIRC, "backup power supply" was simply another switched 12v wire from the ignition switch. There is one wire that goes to the battery for ecu power 24/7, but I don't think it was the "backup power supply" wire. Basically, there are 2 or three wires that power the ecu, and 1 small diameter yellow wire that connected directly to the battery. I'm also using a '91 legacy engine. I don't know how much they changed.