eulogious

I guess I should address the 3rd (yellow) wire since I failed to mention it before... To confirm, the yellow wire already has 12+v to it with the key on. No key on, no power to the yellow wire. I verified this with my DMM, even though the diagrams tell us this already. So all you have to do is cut it, insulate it, and hide it. This is exactly what I did. There's the wire before I hid it. And here's where I hid it. I just stuffed it into the factory split loom and used some of my awesome electrical tape to seal it up again. This way its safe and out of the way. It's also a great wire to have handy, since it's powered off of the ignition. Once I add some off road lights to my car, this wire will come in handy. One less wire I have to run into the cab, or splice into!

Alrighty, I got my additional 4awg wire installed, and I decided to blend in the new wire as much as I could... Pics! There it is all wired up. I put some split loom around the new 4awg wire, and ran it along side the existing wire, and I think I blends in really nice. It stands out now because it's all shiny and new, but after a few drives up to seattle, it should blend in real nice. The only real issue I ran into was trying to attach my new wire to the alt. The end I am using was a little bit too big. But this didn't take more than 30 seconds to figure out. So I took off the existing nut that was there, and replaced it with a shorter one. Here's the difference between the 2 nuts. It's not much, but enough to let the nut grab a few threads! Here's my positive battery terminal: I love this thing! It took a little bit of forcing to get 2 4awg wires into it, but they are in there good! Compression fittings are the bomb when it comes to this stuff! Here's the alternator connection all wrapped up: And one more shot of the new wire run: Before I ran the new wire, I had a .5v+ drop from the alt to the batt, but now with the new wire, I get a .01+v drop between the alt and the batt. Much better! All in all, this was a super easy swap, and I would highly recommend doing it when you first gen leggy alt goes out. It's a no brainer to save $50!

I just sold my spare cruise unit. They aren't difficult to install or use. I didn't mind mine when I had my wagon, used it all the time. Worked great. Ask in the wanted section of the classifieds, you might get lucky! When looking in the yard, look for a GL-10 or a turbo, usually those both had cruise units in them. But beware, the factory cruise unit is a lot more involved then the dealer installed version. I have just played with the dealer installed unit... Good luck!

Yup, it's the same plug! I grab one off of an '97 outback, and it totally fits into the maxima alt. I also noticed that the impreza plug is the same as well, which makes sense. And it totally works in my car now as well! I got it wired in and working yesterday, I just didn't have time to post on the board. Pics! New Alt bolted in but not wired up yet: New alt and plug wired up: All wrapped up: And with it running and working: I haven't run my 4awg wire from the alt to the batt yet, I will do that tomorrow. Didn't feel like doing that today. I also needed the new plug, as the old wires won't quite reach. They are just a tad bit to short. So they must have changed the location of the plug slightly as well. Not a big deal since wiring up the new plug is the best way to go about it anyways. The wires being short made me do it the correct way the first time, so that's not a bad thing at all! And what a difference a new alt makes! I was wondering my headlights were sucking so bad the last few weeks/months, and it's because my alt wasn't putting out the right voltage! With the new alt, my lights are nice and bright again. What a difference. And I didn't even get a bigger one, still just 70amps, but having it be new makes a world of difference! It was time for the old alt to go away, that's for sure! And if you haven't ever spent the money on good electrical tape, I would highly recommend it! I bought the 3m Super 88 electrical tape, and it's freaking awesome! Well worth the $7 I paid for it. The best tape I have ever used. So if you have just been using the cheap stuff, I would recommend not using it anymore and using some good quality stuff, it does make a difference! I will post up more pics tomorrow when I get it all wrapped up for good!

Everywhere (well not really, but alot of places) outside the US got dual range EJ's, so yes he is correct in what he says. We Americans just drool and dream about the dual range EJ... The higher milage isn't something I would worry about either. That motor is just barely broke in! Just like anything, use your best judgement. Even though these soobies have a GREAT track record, there are bad ones kicking around, so make sure you do your homework on the car, and if it all checks out, most likely it will run for another 200K! Good luck man!

From the looks of it, you are right. I took the liberty of highlighting the wires from some more FSM scans so it's easier to see, and sure enough it should already be hot. In fact it seems to power the fuel pump relay and some other vital things with the motor. Here's some more scans: So it looks like this swap just got a bunch easier All I need to do is cut the end, insulate it, and match up some wires, and I should be good to go, just like you said GD. Today when I get off work this morning I am headed up to Auburn to pick up the alt, and then I will slap it in and see what happens. Thanks for the help so far!

Ahhh, still trying to get that bad boy working eh? I take it you couldn't use the paddles due to regulations or something? I didn't even think about the manual mode, and you are right. They did take that out with the newer stuff. But like I said, you should be able to run the phase 1 TCU if you don't care about codes. I believe that nothing changed with the addition of OBDII except a few more sensor wires and what not, but nothing having to do with the actual operation of the trans itself. So I would try using the phase I TCU and see what happens. At least then you would have the manual mode.

Yup, those guys are on my list. But I don't have $200 sitting around for this quite yet, so I am going with the $75 recall alt from 1997. Found on locally... Cool. I am planning on getting one of those today when I get off of work actually. I started another thread about doing the swap. Thanks for confirming that the newer gen alts (legacy) will work with your setup

USMB a hostile place, and not a good place to talk ea82? Really? I don't see that at all. Hostile is not the word I would use to describe USMB, very far from it, and I have gotten into with people on the board and still don't see it that way. The world is a very hostile place, USMB is actually an escape from the real world if you ask me! Sure some have their opinions on the way things should or shouldn't be, but we all know what are opinions are like! I don't really know of anywhere else to talk about an ea82, let alone highly modified ones, except for USMB... Not trying to start an argument or be aggravating or anything, I am just curious why you have this opinion. For the most part, this board consists of very nice and highly intelligent people. Either way, if you decide to post your updates somewhere else, please post a link or something here so that we can follow your updates. I am really curious on what this beast will do! Keep up the good work man!

So my alternator decided to take a dump on me today in my 1990 Legacy LS Wagon. It just stopped charging my battery and gets SUPER hot really fast, like after less than a min of my car running, it's already almost too hot to touch :-\ My DMM also says that while idling I am only getting 11.83v, where a few weeks ago I was getting 13.8v. All my lights we also noticeably dimmer when I got in to drive it. Once I get home today, I will do a couple more tests to make sure that there is not a short somewhere and that all my grounds are good and all my connections are fine. It was too rainy outside when I was trying to do this earlier. So from the sounds of it, it must now go. And from the looks of it, it might the original alternator, and if that's the case it now has just shy of 165K on it. Not to shabby if you ask me! Now comes the question of what alt to get, since a new "stock" one for my car cost $135 (seems over priced) from the dealer, and I don't want a reman unit from a chain store since they seem to fail all the time. After talking with a couple of board members off the board and doing some searching on the board, I started calling around to see what I could come up with. I called a "local" alternator rebuild shop, and they wanted $89 for an "in house" (aka not china) rebuild after core exchange. A little pricy, but not too bad for a quality rebuild. Then GD mentioned the "$70 1997 recall alternator", but with one catch, you need to rewire the three prong plug to a 2 prong plug. Even with the catch, this sounds more promising and cheaper! Supposedly you just call up your local dealer and ask for a 1997 legacy/outback reman alternator, and it should only be about $70 after core exchange, and then rewire the plug. Sounds simple, right? WRONG! Well, it is simple once you find a dealer that won't price ************ you! I had to call 4 different dealers to be able to find one for a good price. 4 stupid dealers! And one of them was going to charge me $201 for the alt (before core exchange)! WTF? Finally after calling Lithia of Oregon City (thanks GD for recommending them!), I was able to find the correct part for the right price. BUT, they are down in Oregon, and I am in Oly Washington, and I need my car soon. So shipping was not an option, and I was not driving down to Oregon City for a stupid alt. Too much time, and I don't want to pay more for something I should be able to pick up locally. With part number in hand (Part number: 23700AA34ARA for the reman alt) I called Mike Scraff Subaru in Auburn, WA, since they were mentioned quite a few times on the board. Gave them the part number, and what do ya know, it's $78 after core exchange! WOOHOO! This part does exist at a good price! I then decided to call my local dealer back and see if I could get the "correct" price for this part so I didn't have to drive up to Auburn just for better pricing. Got the parts guy on the phone, gave him the part number, and the price AFTER core exchange... $135! WTF? Seriously? So I told the guy that I could drive up to Auburn and pick this same part up for $78. His response, "Sorry Man". So needless to say I am heading up to Auburn on Saturday to get my reman alt. Anybody in Olympia Washington that needs parts, DO NOT order them from Hansen Subaru! They WILL and DO charge more for their parts than other dealers. Call up Mike Scarff Subaru in Auburn, real nice guys, and good pricing, so it's worth the drive for sure! Now that I found my alt, I need to wire up the newer alt to my older EJ. After some searching on here, I found some good info: http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=111657 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=97148 http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108154 http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=122076 And this one kinda applies, although it's for a Ej swap: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=124891 But no pics or diagrams for EJ to EJ conversion, just EA to EJ, although I suspect that they are close to the same setup. So I am changing that now. So here's the qoute that sums up what needs to happen the best I think: And here's some FSM diagrams for a 92 (which should be very similar to my 90) and a 97: 92: 97: From the looks of it, all I need to do is wire in the yellow wire to the ignition on circuit (key on), then splice in a plug for the new alt, and I should be good to go. I am correct in this assumption? So now my next question is... Where in the engine bay would be the best place to tap into ignition power? I don't want to run another wire into the cab, but I can if need be. I would rather tap into a power source in the engine compartment. I will have to research this a little bit more... The biggest reason I want to do this is because of cost. $78 is alot cheaper than $135 for my stock replacement. It also has the side benefit of allowing me to swap in a higher output WRX alt for a better price as well. I can get more power for cheaper when buying a WRX alt compared to my stock alt. So this conversion will also save me money when I go to a higher output alt. I should also mention that I will probably be running some 4awg form the batt to the new alt as well, just for kicks and grins. I got the wire laying around, so I might as well use it. So when that's done, I will have done the "Big 3" that is always talked about when upgrading alts. As of now I have not even removed my dead alt, so once I do that, and re-route the yellow wire and tap it into something, I will take pics and notes of what I do. More to come soon!

Why do you say this thread is over? Sounds like this is exactly where you should be posting. It's still a Subaru, and you are still putting in a subaru engine, so almost all of it is retrofitting different subaru gear into a different subaru. I am curious on where this goes, so please don't stop posting as you are still retrofitting your subaru!

Here's the thread I was talking about, but you were apart of the thread, so you probably remember. But here it is anyways. Might help you out a little bit... http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=114285

Well I believe either way, something is going to throw a code most likely, either the TCU or the ECU, so choose which one you would want to throw a code. I would rather have the TCU throw codes rather than the ECU, so I would use the Outback TCU and make it work with the phase 1 trans, so that the outback ECU is happy. I would also check the FSM for symptoms that might cause the TCU to go into Limp Mode and make sure you can connect up those sensors that might cause the TCU to go into limp mode. Another thing though you might want to check is that the pinouts are the same between the TCU's. Since one is OBDI and the other OBDII, they might have changed the pinouts on the TCU, so you might have to resplice some of those connections to make it work. Hmmmm... You mentioned that the outback is a 3.0, that changes things a little bit, maybe. I know the older TCU code uses a divider/multiplier to figure out the RPM singal for either the 4 or the h6 so it can calculate when to shift and for the AWD, so you might be stuck with the phase 2 tcu since it will have the proper RPM code for the h6. Keep in mind that my info is based off of phase 1 info, but I really don't see that logic changing too much over the years. Something else to think about... If you get this working, you might be the first to do it. I also remember reading on one of the aussie subaru boards of someone trying to do this. I think that "el_freddo" post a link a few months back about the guys project here on USMB. I think that it involved a forester. Might want to look into that and see what happened with that project.

Answered my own question... A quick search on this board and I came up with this: http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=111657&highlight=EJ22+alternator+swap To qoute Chux for easy reference: Which pretty much sums it up Stinger makes good quality stuff and it can be found for CHEAP online, so I would just use one of theirs. They even make a circuit breaker that would work just as well. I have a 200amp break installed for my stereo now, and I LOVE it. Didn't cost too much either. BUT you really don't NEED it, but it's always better to be safe than sorry. But if it's not there at all, it's a MUCH cleaner install :-) I probably won't fuse mine once I upgrade even though I have a fuse for it already. Just too much clutter IMHO, and it's not really needed.

Bumping this up again, since I am now in the need for a new alt, and I am going to try to put a newer EJ series alt into my older Legacy, so having your diagram on the wires would be really nice You got that sitting around still?

I truly wonder if you really save any MPG by using FWD instead of AWD. I will have to try it and truly see if there is a difference. Since I have a modded TCU with paddle shifters and full control of my AWD, I can safely put my car into FWD mode for extended periods and not worry about destroying my Duty C. And even if I destroy my Duty C, I got a replacement trans already waiting for me to install it, so I don't got nothing to lose I will have to try this experiment over the christmas weekend. I have to drive up to Seattle and back, so I will do the whole trip once with FWD and once running it "normally". This will take me a couple of months to do, since after xmas, I probably won't be going away for a while. This way we can see if just running a subaru with the FWD fuse it actually saves on MPG. And as long as it doesn't get icy or rainy, I will try to use FWD mode for the entire tank to really try to see if there is a difference just running around town.

My 1990 does the same thing, has since the day I bought it. I tested my CTS and it was fine, but I have yet to replace or clean my IAC. It really only bugs me when the AC kicks in. It will almost stall out the car. But it hasn't actually stalled yet, so meh. I really need to clean out the IAC... If this works for you, I might just have to finally do it...

8 gauge is a little weak. I would use 4 awg at a minimum. The price isn't that much more, and it will carry the load better. Also, (this is debatable but its what I do and I have no issues, and you mention as well), you don't need the wire fused from the alt to the battery, as long as the run of wire is less than 18". This is the rule in high powered stereo drags where guys will pull HUNDREDS of amps during competitions, and they don't fuse any wires when they do the big three. I myself have a stereo installed that will pull 100amps RMS at full bore and I used 0awg for all my wiring, including the big three, and have no fuse on the wire from the alt to the batt, and I have had no issues for 2 years now. I mention this just to save on cash, since you don't really need the fuse :-) Now with that being said, fusing won't hurt anything either, but it's not really "needed" to be safe. I just didn't want to spend another $50 on a fuse holder for my 0awg wire when it wasn't needed. I would recommend doing the bigger three as well, since the charging system just straight up sucks in the older soobs, so any help you can give it the better. By adding more wire, you reduce the resistance to the battery, therefore improving charging and all that goes with it. You might not get that noticeable of a difference, but it will help. To answer the OP's question, you can ground it anywhere you want. Either to the motor or the body. The motor is grounded through the starter motor directly to the battery, and the body is grounded directly to the battery through several areas, so you will get the same effect either way. If you put it to the body, use some sand paper to clean away the paint/rust of the connection before you ground it so you get a good connection. HTH!

Should be between 14.4v and 14.5v. So you are good to go! Just make sure you keep an eye on it to make sure its not boiling over!

Welcome! It sounds like your "new" transmission is having the same issue as the old one. Those are the same symptoms. Have you tried putting in he FWD fuse with the new trans? i would try that and see if it helps. The other thing I would do is a drain and fill, three times. Yes the three times is the important part. Drain it, fill it, drive around for about 10 miles, then repeat the process two more times. That will usually free up any "gumminess" that the clutch packs might have. Doing this can also make a big difference in the way the trans acts all together. Really helped with mine. Do you have any info on the "new" trans' history? Did it work when pulled? Why did he get rid of it? That sort of thing. Might help with trying to figure out what might be wrong with it...

The cross member is going to be different for you. Now wether or not that is an issue I don't know. But I do know that the turbo cross member is the one that seems to be wanted, IIRC. Might want to look that up...

If you are boiling your battery, then you don't have the sensing wire hooked up most likely. The alt doesn't know when the battery is charged, so it just keeps on charging. Make sure you have it wired up like el_freddo's diagram… As for the plugs, cut and splice to make it work...

Here you go for the link to fix the door locks: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=963942&postcount=14 I have all the references in there and quoted it to keep it alive on this site. Enjoy your new ride! The 1st gen's are tanks and are a joy to own!

Well it depends on exactly what you want to go for. Is an iPad/tablet an option for you? Light wieght, LONG battery life, great ebooks app that reads PDF's very well, tons of apps available. You would still need your scanning tools, but you could get rid of all your books and that sort of thing. I have a laptop at home, and I use my iPhone more than it to do almost everything I need, including reading FSM's and that sort of thing. I rarely use my laptop anymore. The thing about netbooks is that they are limited on ports, which if you wanted a computer to replace your scan tools and your books, you would need to make sure that you have several different types of ports available, especially for older cars. So I would stay away from a "netbook" and just focus on a laptop if a iPad/tablet won't work for your needs. Laptops are cheap enough now days that you can get one with options for not too much more than a netbook. HTH!

Now this is what I am talking about! I will have to examine this some more, and I will probably have some more questions about this. Expect a PM from me about this But this looks like it could work. Nice work presslab, yet again! I really need to play with that O'scope some more don't I capn_r? Once I get back from Canada we should really get on this...