eulogious

Don't know if OBDII will read the airbag codes, but I would think that you should be able to pull the codes from the computer for the airbags at the very least. Kinda like getting the ABS codes, and other things like that. BUT, I would scan the OBDII port and see what it says, you might get lucky. There must be a way to get those codes though...

+1 to the battery being low. When was the last time your battery was tested? When was the last time it was replaced? A normal "flooded" battery will only last between 6-8 years, and then after that they usually won't hold a charge for very long. Try jumping the car to see if it starts. That will let you know if it's the battery or another issue. But keep in mind that if your battery is too dead, sometimes even jumping them won't start it until a good battery is installed. I just ran into this issue with my neighbors car. He was deployed and his wife didn't start the car for a few months and the battery was old. When I went to start it, I got nothing at all. Tried jumping it, and it would turn the light on and all, but it wouldn't turn the starter over, even while trying to jump it. Installed a new battery, runs like a champ.

This has been debated back and forth (search for it), but it's not THAT critical if you run one wheel with more tread, as long as it's somewhat TEMPORARY. Subaru didn't design the car so that it would break instantly if the tires were to be mismatched. There is some time before bad things happen, and it's not the end of the world if they are over 5/32" off. Not ideal, but it's not like your car will just not work immediately after putting the tire on. This is good advise to use as a general rule though... A different size tire, even if it's just a 1/4" bigger might be an issue though. That's substantially more of a difference than just tread wear alone.

When I swapped out my fuel rail because I was having injector problems with my 1990 Legacy I just used the exsisting o'rings and have had no issues whatsoever using the old o'ring. Probably at least 10k miles later and still no issues! HTH

Do keep in mind I am talking about turbos only, otherwise it don't matter

First 2 are the same ad, and that's a BAD option for a lifted rig, as it's FWD. More work needed to make it AWD. Second one is a good DD car, I wouldn't bother lifting it. Same with the first outback. The outbacks are already lifted some, no real need to lift it that much more. But the last one is the one I would go for. Already looks trashed a little, and it's cheap. This would be a good candidate to lift, even though it's an outback. Honestly thought I would look into a 1st gen legacy 90-94, or an ea82 if I wanted a lifted rig. The ea82's are cheaper, cheaper to lift, lighter, and generally make for a better lifted rig. The legacy's lift alone is almost 2x as expensive as the ea82 lifts. $700 compared to $400. I can't wait to lift my 1st gen legacy :-) Is this for a wheeler or a DD? Welcome to the board!

Your OBD1 reader won't do any good... Unless its the Subaru Select Monitor. That's the only OBD1 tool that will read subaru codes.

My 1990 turbo auto car got 24-26 TOPS on the highway, and about 20-22 around town. Plugs and wires help. But your 22 sounds about like what you should get with that turbo around town. Oh, and this was with 92 octane gas as well. If you are not running premium, start running it, the engine runs better with premium.

Have you temped the motor yet? No use doing anything else until you know what the motor temp actually is...

Aftermarket? Cheaper, and there are install instructions I picked up my keyless entry and remote start for $20 used off of ebay. Almost 2 years later it's still working like a champ! Only took about an hour and 3 relays to install the keyless entry part of the system. You do need some 12v experience though, just a thought...

Heck ya! Freakin' sick! The problem most of the time is finding one that isn't trashed Also if you get a "newer" one, you might get the DCCD knob as well...

The motor should not overheat, no matter the load on it. If anything you could be wound out in 2nd gear doing 30 mph, and the motor should still be cooling just fine, and 95* is not THAT hot out either. These little engines can take the abuse. There is something wrong with your cooling system. I agree to have the rad flow tested to make sure it's flowing right. Other than that it looks like you got everything else covered...

Ticking is fine, just get used to it Almost all subaru's tick at some point. The only TRUE solution is to replace ALL the lifters. This is the ONLY TRUE way to solve this problem. Here's GD post of the subject: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=113431 Pretty much sums up what you needs to do. Check post 6, he specifically mentions the oil pump WILL NOT fix this issue every time. Or you could just ignore it and drive it as it is

Any autoglass shop should be able to order a new windshield for a couple hundred bucks... Trying to remove a windshield is a PITA if you have never done it before.

Well, what's the part number for your compressor? We might be able to cross reference that number and see what else that compressor went into. Checkout http://www.car-part.com/ as well. They might have someone that would be willing to ship internationally for you... Or find someone that would be willing to ship an ac compressor over to you. I would ship a compressor over to you, if I got one to ship. I don't mind throwing it into a box and shipping it for you, but shipping might be a killer though. But it's an option. I have a compressor off my 1990 loyale turbo, but I don't remember what setup it is. Here's a pic of my setup, sounds kinda like yours... My compressor works, but it's got 215k or so on it. But it does blow cold and I don't *think* it made any noise, but I can't find out now nor do I remember, it's been almost a year since that car ran. The car is totaled and has no engine and technically it's not mine anymore, but the new owner of the hulk would probably get rid of it with no issues, if it will work for you. LMK and I will talk to him and see what he says... Other than that, you might just have to order a new compressor man, which TOTALLY sucks :-\ Let's hope we can find something for you man!

To the OP... I am not baggin' on you, I am just curious on why you did what you did, that's all. And I agree that we shouldn't be so negative about what someone does with their car, not really the spirit of USMB. That's what Nabisco is for I was just curious the WHY, even if I don't get it or wouldn't do that myself. At least there was a reason to cut up the hatch, it didn't work. So now I at least understand where the urge came to start cutting

Drive both first, then make these decisions. Not the other way around. Don't write off the legacy until you actually sit in one, and then drive it. Do the same with a ea82 as well. Then you will see the difference. Just looking at them on paper, you really don't see what the big deal is between the 2, but driving them is a different story. You mentioned your story about the boat and not wanting to buy something that you don't want. Well, that same thing might happen if you buy an ea82. Do yourself a favor and drive the 2 types of cars before writing one or the other off.

Well then, I would try to get an actual reading of the temp of the car. You need a baseline to see if the gauge is actually reading correctly. If it is reading correctly then you have a different issue than if it is not reading correctly. So get an actual reading of the engine temp, and then go from there.

The ea82 spfi ecu will NOT control the ej's mpfi system, no matter what you do, you can't get around it. You MIGHT be able to get an mpfi ea82 car to work with the EJ mpfi system, but even then you have to tap into existing wires, and if you are already doing that, you might as well just use the ej stuff. You got some 27" tires that will fit on 14" rims Scott? I will wire up your car for some decent tires Seriously, if you are interested, we can probably work out a deal to get your car running with an EJ... PM me...

Ahh, your in Aus... Your location said WA, so I assumed your parts would cost the same as me, since I live in WA. I would still suspect the temp sensor... Wait, are we talking about the same thing? I am referring to the THERMOSTAT, not the sensor, my bad! :-p So before I continue, lets make sure we are on the same page

Well, if you have access to r12, then use it instead of doing all this swapping business. Seriously. Don't fuss with changing anything over. Just swap out your compressor for another one, and refill with r12. For that matter just convert your current system to r134a. Just swap out your hitachi for another hitachi, replace your drier, and just use r134a with the proper oil if you really want to be "environment friendly" (read up on how to do this properly, I just paraphrased the whole process there are a few more key steps to the conversion). There is no need to change over to another compressor for r134a to work in your system. I just did this conversion and really didn't have any issues with the conversion itself but I would NOT have converted if I had access to r12. No way, no how. I would really just stick with r12 if I had the choice. Not to mention that r134a will not cool as effectively in a system designed for r12, since r134a does not dissipate heat as well as r12. So a converted system will not function the same as it did with r12 since it needs more room to disperse more heat. On top of all that, if you did swap your compressor, you would have to swap all the lines as well, since all the fittings will be different. r12 and r134a do not have the same fittings, so basically your entire system will have to be swapped out in order for you to use an r134a compressor. Or a bunch of splicing has to happen to the ends to make it all compatible with each other. This is also known as too much work, for hardly any gain. Just convert your existing system over to r134a if you insist on going that route. r12 is still used commercially BTW, so it's not like it's evil and it all must go away. It's also a better refrigerant compared to r134a. The government just doesn't want Joe Blow venting his r12 system to the air, and if he does, they would rather it be r134a then r12, hence the change. Both are bad for the air and environment, don't kid yourself about that But honestly, if you evac your system correctly, replace your compressor, refill your system using your old stuff that should still be good, and top if off with r12, you are doing the world a favor by not wasting good r12!

Does the temp drop when you start moving faster, like on the freeway? Or when you come to a stop, does the temp go up? Or is it strictly rpm related? You said you replaced the water temp sensor, did you replace it with the dealer one or one from some auto parts chain? I believe everyone says to use the dealer only part for that, as ALL the other ones tend to fail for some reason or another. That and the dealer part is not anymore expensive.

Why don't you want the AWD? The AWD in a Subaru is fantastic, and you still get good gas mileage. It's a myth to say the subaru AWD cars get bad gas mileage. My 1st gen Leggy w/4EAT (auto) get's about 23 around town, and about 26 on the highway, and it's 21 years old! The 5 speeds get much better than that, around 30 I believe on the highway. I know the DR is nice, but's it's not a reason I would not buy a car. Look into the legacy, you might be surprised at the differences between the ea82s and the legacys... Oh, and don't look past the 1st gen leggy either (90-94). They were just built with a little bit more "sturdiness", they just don't seem as cheaply made. The plastic seems to hold up better, and they just seem to hold up better over time. IDK, but my 1990 has nothing wrong with it and everything powered still works just fine. That and the 1st gens are CHEAP comparatively. I do agree they are not the prettiest car in the world, but if you want to get from point a to point b comfortably, then a 1st gen leggy is for you. I love mine!

Why hack it up? I understand having a beater car, but just hacking it up for no reason? It's not like it's more functional now, in fact it's less functional :-\ To each their own, but I don't get it... But good deal on the car man!

Engine revolution sensor has nothing to do with the engine if you are talking about the tcu. It's talking about the rpm signal coming from the ecu, not about anything with the engine. If the tps was bad, you would have a cel as well I would think. The tps signal is "shared" by the ecu and the tcu from my understanding, so if you are not getting a cel for the tps, then most likely the tps is fine, so I would check the connections for corrosion and the wires for shorts. Have you tried another tcu? I would swap it out for another one before I really tried too much else. These old computers do tend to fail in strange ways... Oh, and just chill out about wanting help... One thing about USMB is that it is not known for it's speed, but for it's answers. Be patient and help will come TONS of smart people on here, just not everyday.