eulogious

That's sick looking. Very nice man! How long would the wrap last on a "normal" car? I might consider doing this instead of repainting my hood...

There are a couple of shops just outside of lakewood that had them in stock for about $80 I believe it was. This was a couple of years ago... I just called around to about 5 different shops, and 2 of the 5 had them in stock, something like that. I asked this question about 2 years ago it seems according to a quick search: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108599&highlight=empi Last post is the place I called and had them in stock... HTH!

This is a good idea, I just never got locked in the back of my car, so I never thought about it. But good idea. What I would do is install a "trunk release" solenoid for aftermarket keyless entry systems. I installed one in my MR2 because the old trunk release cable broke, and I didn't want to fish a whole new cable through the car, so I just bought a trunk release kit, and installed it. Now I just push a button, and it pops up the trunk. Something like this (basically the same as to what was linked to earlier): http://www.amazon.com/CRIME-STOPPER-CS-611-Power-Trunk-Release/dp/B00006JPG8 But you are going to need some sort of solenoid to do this. The locks are NOT strong enough at all to release the hatch. I am not even sure the solenoid in my trunk release kit is strong enough, but it might be. And if you go the solenoid route, you can install a switch wherever you want, and don't have to worry about cables hanging out and getting in the way or anything like that. Very clean way of installing it. You can have a switch up front, and a switch in the back. There should be enough room in the hatch to install it, but make sure it SECURED. I have already had to redo my mounting 2x on my trunk release kit because it keeps coming loose and it stops working. I just can't seem to find a good place to secure it so that it won't move. So if you go this route, make sure that that puppy is really secured!

I will keep an eye out down on Oly in case it comes down this way. Sucks it got stolen. Hopefully it ran out of gas before it got too far and into too much trouble...

Hey man! Sorry my cruise didn't work out! But I am glad you got it all worked out! The reason it was acting funny is because of the tach signal, I guarantee it. There is something about the signal that is not liked by the EA cruise computer. I really need to bust out my oscope and take a look at the ej signal and compare it to the ea...

Could be a loose connection somewhere too. With the extreme cold, it could cause some wires to shrink due to the cold and cause them not to make contact, causing it not to start. Really strange considering it takes it getting SO COLD to cause the problem. Are you able to check the connections that the dealer installed? I would start there and just verify that everything looks secure and connected. Apply the KISS principal to this one

Here's what I did with my remote start and keyless entry system: http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=116589 Post #31 and #32 show what I did to get all the features working in my 1990 leggy. It's a little bit different than your car, but not really that much. HTH

Thanks for the link!

If any of those animals come up to my door and try to carjack me, they get the car, no questions asked that's for sure! But of course this isn't an issue with the car sitting in my driveway and me not in it... Then it's not really carjacking, it's just Grand Theft Auto

Like I said, I would rather have the doors locked than not, since they could fly open when you hit the deer. Crazy stuff can happen in accidents! Meh, it's something that you get used too, like the autobelts. It's annoying for about the first month, then you just don't care, and consider it a convince rather than a hassle. At least I do. I completely understand thinking it's annoying as I did at first, but like I said, I would rather have it than not, so I just got used to it and adapted to it. One feature I don't think I mentioned (DOH!) is that my remote start will allow me to remove my keys after inserting them into the ignition again. This allows me to leave my car, and then lock it, and still have my keys in my hand, while the car is still running. I just got in the habit of ALWAYS removing my keys whenever I get out of my car, then it's never an issue, since I still have my keys in my hand if the doors lock. I LOVE this feature of my autostart. This feature alone is well worth the install of the remote start. Infact, I will install remote start into the next manual car I own (and probably into my MR2), and just disable the remote start feature, but use it for this feature alone. It's so nice to be able to keep your car running if you need to run back into the house for something small or if you need to scrap something off of your car and you want the doors shut. It's sooo nice. And, not to mention, with remote start, I have no need to open my doors to start my car, so scrapping snow (or anything for that matter) off my car and having my door open is not an issue at all, since I can start my car without opening the doors. So I never have to sit in snow (or rain/mud/sleet/leaves/pine nettles/etc) either, AND it's TOASTY when I open the door for the first time to get into the car I am not special at all, remember I did lock myself out of my car too! The only reason I locked myself out of my car though, was because of my own stupidity and because I was in a hurry and didn't remove my keys like usual. One time in over 2 years, I can live with that! Having about a .001% chance of locking myself out of my car is an acceptable risk to me!

It must be grounded somehow though, to the frame or something, like McBrat mentioned. You need both positive and negative to make it work, so I would double check that once you get the unit But you are correct. Those are the two wires that you need. It wouldn't surprise me if they didn't tell you you needed a relay at all. In my remote start system (and keyless entry) I installed, it never mentions that I NEED any relays, just that they "might" be needed. Well, I had to install 6 relays to get it all working. So having a aftermarket manufacture not mention what you need is not uncommon at all, nor would I think they would take any unit back (after the normal return policy) because you didn't know how to install it, lol. Unfortunately this happens far more often than not with aftermarket stuff. Good luck with installing it, and if you need any more help, just ask!

Just go to your local auto parts store and buy a new antenna (regular type) and install it. Shouldn't be too hard to do. I have done it before on my MR2 and my old neon. I was going to go this route, but I decided that JY power antenna's for $8 was a better way to go. I can buy 3 used power antenna's for the price of a regular antenna. 14 months on my used antenna and I still have no real issues with it... If you do decide to get a regular antenna, take pics and post up what you did. I still might go this route in the future.

The part that you missed with capn_r's response (read in between the lines) was that the EJ tach signal is different, and if you are using the dealer installed CC from a ea car, then the EJ tach signal will not work with just running a wire. Hence capn_r's response with the diodes. The ea cars use the tach signal from the negative side of the coil, but obviously this is different with the ej's because they don't have a coil, so the tach signal is totally different since the computer is coming up with the signal, not the motor. I don't know exactly what is wrong with the signal, but it is different enough that it will not work with the ea stuff by just plugging it in. This would also be the reason why the ej CC stuff works just fine now, since it was designed to use the ej tach signal. I bet ya if you would have installed a couple of diodes off the ignitor like capn_r mentioned, you could have gotten it to work with the ea stuff. All of this is now a moot point since you got it working with the ej cc, but I thought I would tell you why the ea cc didn't work for you. So I would sell that dealer installed cc for some extra cash since they are somewhat hard to find now days, since it probably works just fine HTH!

I like the idea of having decoy keys. That's an awesome idea! I might actually use that one. Thanks for that idea! My remote start system locks the doors once the keys are in the ignition and turned to "on", since the car should already be locked when I start it remotely. So I unlock the car, get in it, turn the key to "on", hit the brakes, and within 3 seconds my doors lock. Then when I turn off the car, they unlock. It's really easy to disable it, but I really don't care. Took me about a day to get used to it, and my wife actually prefers this, as she feels more safe having the door locked when driving around. So now I don't need to lock and unlock them manually when we are using my car, which is every time we go somewhere together. The main upside is that you can't get car jacked easily with the doors locked. And the argument that if you get in an accident no one can help you because your doors are locked is just dumb. If you need help that bad, locked doors are the least of your concern! Even with unlocked doors, I have been trapped in cars having to find another way out, so that whole argument is just silly and pointless IMHO. I have also had doors fly open in accidents as well, and if they were locked, they might have stayed closed. So to me there are way more benefits of having your doors lock automatically then not, so I just keep that "feature" turned on for my own safety Now locking your self in the car is easier with aftermarket keyless entry systems in the 1st gen legacy's because of the extra actuator that has to be installed in the drivers door. Since the actuator adds some resistance to the lock, when I open my drivers door from the inside and it's locked, I can get out just fine, but the lock doesn't actually "unlock" fully, but it unlocks enough to open the door, then goes back to the lock position. So if I leave my keys in the ignition and don't manually unlock the doors before getting out, my drivers door will relock itself, leaving me locked out of my car! Kinda sucks, but I would rather have keyless entry and have the risk of getting locked out of my car, than to not have keyless entry. In 2 years of having my remote start/keyless entry, locking myself out of my car has happened to me only once and it was my own damn fault for not paying attention and trying to save time because I was running late. But I was right outside my house when it happened, so it wasn't a big deal. And it only takes once before you DO NOT do that again With my remote start I can remove the key and leave the car running (this also unlocks all the doors), so I just do that whenever I get out of my car and shut my doors. Otherwise I roll down my window slightly or just leave the door open. I got away from that habit when I stopped doing pizza delivery, but I need to get back in the habit of that! If you have keyless entry in your car and you get locked out of your car, it's your own damn fault!

I just grabbed mine out of the junkyard. $8 FTW! I had to rewire it since I grabbed one off of a 98, and my car is a 1990, but it's been working great for over a year now. Except when it gets cold it tends to only come up part of the way until the car warms it up, but I think that is just the nature of power antennas and the cold weather and having your car sit outside in the cold weather.. But no biggie for $8! Here's the wiring diagram for the radio in your car (1995 Legacy): It shows 3 wires. A power wire, the ground, and the "control" wire, the wire that actually tells the unit to go up and down. So if the new antenna only has 2 wires, you need to figure out what they are, and then wire it up from there. My guess is that you just have a 12+ and a ground for the new antenna. So to get it to work, you will need to use the "control" wire to turn on and off the antenna. For that to work, you will need to wire in a relay so that when the "control" wire is turned on it in turn applies power to the antenna making it go up. You can't just use the "control" wire to power the antenna has it is in no way strong enough (not enough amps most likely, all those control wire signals are usually only rated about about 500mAh which is alot less than the antenna needs), so that's why you need the relay. The other issue I see is how to make the antenna go down when you turn it off, since using the relay would cut the main power when the radio is turned off so how would it come down with no power? You can wire up some relays that would reverse the power once it looses the control wire power, but that's more work, but might be what needs to be done. Having some more info on the replacement antenna would make it easier to figure that out... This is the whole reason there are 3 wires, so when the control wire sees power it goes up, and when it looses power the antenna then retracts. So having more info on the 2 wire guy would make it easier to help ya out!

Is your car a turbo by chance? The reason I asked is because my old Loyale Turbo with a 4EAT was doing the same thing. But the PO had piped the vents of the transmission into the manifold , so therefore when I produced boost the positive pressure inside the trans would cause the dipstick to be pushed out and ATF would leak everywhere. After finding the vent tubes and following them, I was able to find out the problem, and I just removed the vents from the manifold and all was well. Probably not your problem, but something to look for anyways. PO's are really dumb sometimes...

Speed sensors will cause the AWD not to work. I would look into why they are giving you problems. You should have no issues with the speed sensors. Strange that they gave a message, but not currently. Sometimes things will fail, but still be just in spec that the computer doesn't realize it's bad because it works "just enough" to not throw a code, but enough to make it not work. I agree that I would take it out somewhere and try to verify for yourself exactly what it is and is not doing...

Outback struts are different, how do you think they put the bigger tires on there? The spring perch is higher on the outbacks, allowing the taller tires. This is also why anyone who lifts a legacy needs to have outback (or Forrester) struts, or else you would not be able to run larger tires, which would defeat the purpose of a lift. At least this is the case with all the older stuff (pre 2000). It might have changed in the later years, but I highly doubt it. Not to mention an OBS is usually an impreza, not a legacy. So you would definitely need to get the outback struts as regular impreza struts will surely be shorter.

This only applies if the housing ISN'T modified. The ones that GD talked about are not only the bulbs but also the housing. This makes all the difference in the world. Great article BTW And now I get to pick on you Even in the daylight you can see that your housing wasn't modified and you used the bulbs. You have NO CUT OFF what so ever, and it's apparent in the daylight in your pics. Imagine at night! But at least you know it, so it's a little bit better than most people. But you still suck for even putting those damned stupid things in. What a waste of money. I just installed these bad boys into my car, and for $26 for a pair of them, WHAT A DIFFERENCE. http://eiko.com/Products.aspx?CatID=723 Picked them up at NAPA, and these are just replacement bulbs. Nothing is needed to make these work. These are really brighter and whiter than the normal stock replacements, but they are only a few $$ more. With all the bad weather we have had around here lately, and I have to drive at night, I have been more than pleased by just replacing my lights with the clearvision xl's. I really don't know why people insist on putting in those stupid HID bulb conversions when there are options like these that make a huge difference, but without harming others in the process. What a waste of money the HID's conversion bulbs are. Just a waste.

Return that POS and get a subaru reman unit. Yours is a 1997 so it might be covered under the recall for the alts. Even if it's not covered you can get the subaru reman alt for about $75. I would go this route, and then you will never have to worry about your alt failing again. Well at least for a long long time... Here's some more info. My post is about swapping alt's between generations, but I used a 1997 reman alt. All the info and part numbers are in the first post. Since you are "local" to me, all of this info is relevant to you. I just did this swap about a week or 2 ago, so the prices should not have really gone up any. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=129024 HTH!

Like a raped ape, that's an understatement! This thing is a BEAST considering the meats he's got on it for tires! 29" tires, and the thing moves likes it's stock, if not faster. All that torque makes a BIG difference in the responsiveness of the car. What was the trans issue you were having all of a sudden? Sucky your tail light fix didn't work. FYI, I used 3M "Window Weld" for my sunroof (http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECIE20S4K7000000_nid=GS51JKDTTHgsQH8HT14PGTgl1ZRC9RGN5Fbl). This stuff is a black urethane that is super sticky and works really well and cures quickly. It's made to bond replacement windows to the cars body. It was $20 for a tube of it, but I have yet to have a leak from my sunroof since I fixed last year. I would give that stuff a try if you remove the light again. We need to get the "diff lock" mod going for you too. That will make it all the more badass If you need my garage again, just ask man!

Don't need the tank temp sensor for the motor to run, and the speedo question should have been answered before... I think that some speedos had the reed sensor in the actually speedo itself and some didn't. I believe the "newer" ea82's had the reed sensor. You will want to search and verify this info, as I have never done a swap before... HTH!

The height adjustment button (switch) is not red though, it's orange. Might be the same thing, but might not be. I agree that a pic would really help us all out!

Thanks! Now, like I have always said regarding this subject... Yes it is a good idea to fuse it, and it doesn't hurt a thing, but it is not required for safety. If the run is around 18" or less, then it is not required, and a fuse will do nothing really to save me. This is the rule with high output stereo "drag" competitions where the guys run HUNDREDS of amps, all without a single fuse going from the alt to the batt. And these guys have HUGE upgraded alts and racks upon racks of batteries, but still no fuse from the alt to the batt. Of course this is debatable, and I always say its a good idea to fuse, but it's not needed. My wire I ran might be a little bit more than 18", but I am not concerned about it. I used that same wire in my old loyale for over a year with no issues, so I am not concerned about fire or safety. The reason the factory cable from the alt has a fusible link on it, is because the wire run is longer than 18", so they fused it. Again, it's not needed for runs around 18", and I don't really care since I ran this same wire without anything bad happening for over a year, so I am not concerned about it in the least in my setup. But good advice none-the-less!

I work in downtown oly, and live about 10min away from the capitol (edge of lacey). I got a small garage with a small compressor and a decent set of tools, and a covered carport spot you can use as well. I can work out a bigger garage if you really need it. My folks are less than 5 min away from me, and I can use their garage for whatever, whenever, they don't care. 3 car garage all to myself I also work odd hours, so I am home during the day... LMK if I can help you out!