eulogious

Wow. Did that happen with the first one? If you are smoking it, then there is something wrong most likely with the power to the ecu. I don't think that there is enough voltage else where to make it "smoke". I would check all your grounds, and then start my checking the main power wires and ground wires going to the ecu. You got something bad going on. Or you could just remove the computer and carb it like McBrat said

Good luck with that. Last year I bought basically the last set that any les schwab had seen for a long time. Called around to 3 different locations before I found a set. They are the Wintertrac tires, and they are the only tire I could find in 185/80/13. They are also a snow tire. The 185/80/13 fit with no problems what so ever with some room to spare, so I imagine that 185/85/13 might fit. But finding that size tire, good luck!

There is a module that is located under the steering wheel that controls the intermittent setting. If it came unplugged or stopped working, your intermittent wipers would probably stop working. If I remember correctly, it was buried ontop of the ecu, and it has a light blue connector. At least this was the case with my loyale when I added the intermittent wipers to it.

The subaru system is a common ground system, which will not work with an aftermarket HU. You need to rewire the exsisting wire, or run all new wire. I just ran all new wire, it was easier that way. The biggest issue with this is getting the wire from the passenger compartment into the door. That took a little bit of fiddling to get it working, but I managed to get it done. I also ran 2 sets of wires, one set for my tweets, the other for the woofer, so it was 2x as much work. But well worth it in the end! This is part of the reason I don't buy those wiring kits. In a subaru, you only need 3 wires to get the radio to work (batt, ign, ground), since you will most likely be running new wires for your speakers. So there is no need to connect up all the other wires, since they don't get used.

People have Squirted an RX before, and it works fine. But I haven't really heard of doing a piggy back, especially with the older gen's ecu. The new gen ECU can be reprogrammed, but it's a BIG project to do it. Goes up there with adding paddle shifters to it. It's doable, but not easy at all. http://www.alcyone.org.uk/ssm/ecumod.html But this is for the new gen stuff, not the old gen. I have not heard of anyone modding an older gen ecu...

I will come to the x-mas tree run just to see this thing for sure! Somehow it TOTALLY fits you Way cool man, way cool

That is so freakin' cool man! I was NOT expecting this at all Good purchase my friend. And it looks like it's in excellent condition as well. Just freakin' cool man. I will have to check this thing out in person sometime Just how does one go about buying one of these?!?

Clutch packs are all gummed up, and the heat helps loosen them up. So when cold, they are more sticky, causing your TB. You need to rebuild the tail section of your trans to get rid of that. You could try some more drains and flushes, but ultimately you will probably have to replace the clutch packs.

Sounds like you are in limp mode. Try pulling the codes for sure, something is going on...

Uh. That is really strange. I know you are supposed to change it out at 60K, but to have it be black at 45K. Strange indeed. Since the car wasn't bought new, who knows what the PO did to the car, or how they drove it. They could have beat the living snot out of it for 35K. You never know. But I would be surely be blaming the PO for this one. Your folks don't seem to be the type that would be balls to the walls all the time. I would also look into taking it to the dealer to see what they say about it, if it's free of course. Other wise a few drain and fills should clean up anything funky with it. Just keep an eye on it, it should be fine...

No worries my friend, didn't think you were yelling at all Well, actually your question was if there was a difference between axles or not. So yes, there is a difference between turbo auto, non-turbo auto, turbo manual, and non-turbo manual transmissions. The 23-25 spline thing is certainly a difference between the trans', so that's why I mentioned it. You did not specify what you were actually looking for in your question, nor have you yet to mention what year car/trans we are dealing with as well. For all I know you have a 1990 turbo loyale with a 4eat (my old loyale). Without having this information, I was merely speculating/trying to help you out with mentioning some of the differences between the at/mt trans' that had not been mentioned. I guess the bigger thing I was really getting at is that you didn't really clarify what you were looking for, so it's hard for people to help you out. With more facts and more background on the searching you have already done goes along ways in helping you answer your question. If I would have known more, I would have responded differently and not mentioned the 23-25 spline thing. Whoever said it was going to be easy? I never mentioned it would be easy or a quick find! There have been times where DAYS have gone by before I find my answer. I just keeping searching and digging, and searching and digging until I refine my question enough to get help, or I figure it out myself. Here's a good example... I did this when I asked an interesting fuel injector question. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117696&highlight=fuel+injectors This all took a couple of days of asking and searching before I figured out my question. And that was with HOURS of research on my own time. It's not always easy That is really weird. My iPhone works fine with searching and posting from my phone. What type of phone you do have? Are your cookies turned on? Don't forget that we do still have these old things called desktop and laptop computers that work great for surfing the web I kid, I kid, hehe. Well, to steer this back on topic here, I am glad you got everything all figure out with your trans. Well, at least it removed anyways So far, all the roll pins on my car seem to be coming out easy, I or my help haven't had any issues with them. Although when Turbone tried to get one of my roll pins out with a certain punch, the punch got stuck in the roll pin, just like yours did. But it was the correct size punch... So after getting the punch unstuck, Turbone went and grabbed his craftman punch of the same size and gave that a try, and there were no issues what so ever with that punch. Same size, just different manufacturer. And the punch that didn't work on my leggy, works fine on Turbone's rx :-\ Strange, but my car was very picky about having the absolutely correct size punch. Yours might be just a little bit picky like my bastard of a car was??

No, he's talking about the fuse box under the hood, if the loyales have them. I know in my legacy, my radio fuse is under the hood. I found out the hard way when I blew my radio memory fuse :-\ So there might be a fuse box under the hood that would be worth checking out. I can't honestly remember if/where it is on the loyale, it's been to long since I was under the hood of one...

Are you using the stock radio still? If so, I don't know what that orange wire is for. But I don't see the radio sending out any 12v+ signal, except for the power antenna or for an amp turn on. Other than that, it's not 12v+ that the radio sends out. But you are correct, that it could cause problems if you are sending 12v+ down a wire that is sending the 12v+ to it as well. Again, I think I have a diagram for the stock radio, so that might help identify the wires on the back of the radio, if you are using the stock radio that is... I am using a kenwood radio, so not an issue for me. I also have a line in to rca converter I can use so I can use a stock radio with a bunch of amps. This device will also boost the line in signal so that I get good voltage down the RCA's. It's called the Phoenix Gold SLD44, in case you care Works great for using the stock deck with a big custom install.

You just don't listen at all do you? Maybe they are a PITA because you aren't suppose to replace them with HID's! *sigh* Guess you can't fix stupid... Oh, and for the record and anyone reading this, HID's "conversions" ARE BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD!!! Look it up, on here and google. General feeling for them is that they are BAD, and HARMFUL to other drivers, even when they are adjusted properly. Especially in a vehicle that is already tall to begin with. *sigh* I guess other people really don't matter to you Tom, since you keep getting HID's, AND you have been told why/how they are bad, but you just ignore that advice. Oh, and I will ALWAYS give you crap, and anyone else crap, whenever I hear that dreaded term "HID Conversion" and Car in the same sentence!!! And just for fun, here's the link explaining why: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html Have you read that yet Tom? You really should. Seriously.

If in doubt, just run a new wire from the fuse box. Or you could tap into the main wire running from the battery in the steering column going to the ignition. You would just have to fuse it if you came off of that wire. But who cares what the wire was originally intended for? If it has 12v+ with the key off, then use it. Nothing wrong with that. If you are really concerned about it, the only thing that would could be bad is overload the circuit, and blowing fuses. But I doubt that your radio will do that. But there is really only one way to find out, try it! The only thing the radio needs for it to turn on and keep it's settings is 12+ constant, 12+ off the ignition, and ground. Everything else you can make happen. Right now, that's all my radio has is those three wires, and 2 pairs of RCA cables :-) Well, the power antenna wire too, but that doesn't really count :-) But it all works great! I can scan the diagram if you need it as well and want to use the original wire. I got it kicking around somewhere... HTH

Probably the main reason that there is not a FAQ for axles is that they are really so simple, that there just isn't a need. Or every question that has been asked as already been answered. What type and what year of car/trans are we talking about here? There is a difference between auto and manual axles, 23 splines compared to 25 splines, respectively. At least with the ea82 stuff. EJ stuff is a little different, and I have no idea about ea81 stuff. That should have come up in a simple search, as it has been asked MANY times, and answered MANY times as well. I have asked and answered that exact same question myself actually, so I KNOW that it will come up in a search. Out of the USRM, Page 2, answers the question about what is different between the axles (for ea82): http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=642822&postcount=9 Didn't even search for that one. What other questions about axles do you have? I am no expert but I have read a ton of threads about axles in the 2 years I have been on the board, and all the questions are usually about the same thing, and all the issues get solved. So I really don't know where the "lack of information is"... Maybe try searching for different terms? IDK, but there always seems to be some confusion on searching, especially with the newer people on the board. Once you figure out how to use the search function on the board correctly, all the questions usually get answered by searching. At least that is what happened with me... I also know that someone else had this same problem probably about a month ago, and they were told to get the correct punches and put the axle in correctly, and the issue was solved. Searching before hand you would have found out that you need the proper tools to start with, and you might not have had so much problems. Not to drive home the searching thing to hard, but search, search, search, and then use different terms, search some more, and keep searching, even after asking the question on the board. That's what I do, and it's been working great for me for the last 2 years or so... Haven't found a question that can't be answered or that hasn't been answered yet!

This is going to be interesting. I was on my way to doing the same thing before I totaled my loyale. It's going to be interesting fitting all that gear into the loyale... At least nicely and cleanly. There just isn't room without a major rework of the dash and LOTS of custom work. Be prepared for lots of trail and error. I would also start getting used to using fiber glass if you want it to look good. It's sad, but the loyale is just not setup for added goodies :-\ You can look up my old thread on my stereo install if you want to get some ideas for your install... You got any pics of the interior/exterior?

Ya, they did change. When they went to red top injectors they changed the computer as well. I am sure that it's just slight changes in injector flow, that sort of thing, but yes, there was a change. Usually when you swap out the non red top injectors for red top injectors, I was told to replace the ecu as well since it changed. There might be more on that in my injector thread...

Delete the thread? Why do that? That is NOT common practice around here. Please don't delete it. It's good to have the reference when someone else searches for the same sota situation. Glad you got it running!

Look at you go man! I knew you could trick it with some resistors. Good work on figuring out the resistance at a certain temp. Exactly what I would have done Glad you got that worked out! What year ECU do you have? I might have the ecu pinout I should be able to tell you what pin to ground to get rid of the 1111 code. It shouldn't be too hard to find... Most likely the atmos sensor is located on the TCU itself, hence why you need to change your ecu to a "manual", so that's why you might not be able find the actual sensor. I know that there is a atmos sensor on my 1990 tcu, because that's the input I use to control the DCCD in my modded tcu. So I know that sensor is unique to the TCU. What I am not sure of, is if the later year cars (OBDII) started including atmos in the ECU as well.

That's all fine and dandy, and I am glad you are ok with it, but why did you ask for opinions when you didn't even take any of them into consideration? Why even bother asking? Why tell the story of your boat and ask that we steer you in the correct direction so that you didn't make that same mistake again? Because you realize that you did that exact same thing with this car, right? But instead of a boat, you did it with a car. Granted you aren't selling it and are "happy" with it, but you still spent way to much money on something not worth anywhere near that price. Once is a mistake, twice on the other hand... :-\ And to top it off you didn't even drive an EJ car, so you really don't even have a comparison or even a clue on what you are missing :-\ AND now you have to dump money into the car, all while ignoring our advice that you asked for which would have saved you all this hassle AND money. Just seems like it was a waste of time to respond. Not mad, just a little annoyed. Oh well. So with that, I respectfully bow out, and I wish you luck with your car! You should start a "build" thread for it so everyone can see what all is/will be done to it

Only if you can't find the glass fuses. They will do the same thing. The blade fuses are just newer and easier to find and store. I wouldn't take the time to swap the fuse holder out CORRECTLY. Of course you could hack it in, but then it probably would just fail on you... I would just leave it stock.

Here's a TON of info on the injectors: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117696 Should answer some of your questions... HTH

:eek: I hate to say it man, but we told you so! $1500 is what I paid for my legacy w/147K on the clock, without blown head gaskets! I then put $600 more into it, but it has been running great for the last 15K, and I am not worried about anything breaking on it. I know what it's like to want a car, and when the pickings are slim you tend to jump on the "the one that looked good", but you should have held out man. I even walked away from my legacy the first go around, and then drove the 75 miles BACK to it the next day to seal the deal. Now you HAVE to dump even more money into that car! That's what happens when you go out and rush a deal though... Wow, that totally sucks, but you should have taken our advice! Can't wait to hear what GD has to say about all this This ought to be good

I stole that phrase from GD in all fairness It is a great term, hehe