lastchance

Craven, I tried there dude.... I even called them...Nothing.

Yer still dead to me Brad. Me and Brando were contemplating what to do to your car while you are at work tonight

Hey Brad....You can die now... I figured I'd at least get a call at fuggin' 230 this morning BASTARD

Cool Mike, thanks dude. I will let you know what's up...If I can't get one at CostLess tomorrow, I will give you a call dude.

So, I'm going to go pull these parts on Saturday morning... Bezels, grill, third light, mounting crap, etc... I figure I'll possibly have the only 84 turbo wagon with the dual round headlights, the clear/yellow rock guards (oh ya, euro, right Brad?) and a third light. So, I'll get the parts and start pluggin away...And I'll let you guys know what happens. Later, Daniel

Hey guys, I'm having a really hard time finding a radiator for my 84 turbo wagon. I was wondering if the radiator for the same gen motor will work from a carburated or just the FI cars will work...Obviously being a radiator for an automatic is a must...Just wondering if the turbo and non-turbo radiators differ. So, if the turbo motor NEEDS a turbo radiator, does anyone in the PDX/Vancouver area have a used one???? Thanks, Daniel

Trust me, she's not driving the turbo wagon anymore!

Yep....the first gen boosted cars...My bad...

I was wondering about hood clearance on the IC to throttle body 90 bend...It needs to be super tight... Silicone 90's are WAY too expensive...Here's two links with options for the IC to throttle body elbow. Both are really tight radius and actually are both well priced. Cast aluminum elbows are available here, these in my opinion are the best choice for this particular bend. You'll have to scroll all the way to the bottom of the page and check out the "Cast Aluminum Elbows" http://www.roadraceengineering.com/mandrelbends.htm REALLY tight radius mandrel bends are available from here...I guarantee these are the tightest radii bends you will find...Also a really really really good option...Good prices too, plus you get the choice of aluminum AND stainless steel... This is the best place for a SUPER clean intercooler install...You can get your turbo up-pipe, a straight pipe to run to the i/c and your intercoler to throttle body 90 elbow. http://www.woolfaircraft.com/elbow.htm Hope this helps guys, Daniel

Ya... I want to keep and fix it so bad. I'm talking to the insurance people tomorrow to see what they say.

Well...Hopefully good news is coming soon.

Well guys, wish me luck on Monday...We'll see how everything goes...I'm hoping to total it, then part it out or rebuild it myself. I will keep everyone posted on how stuff goes. Thanks again, Daniel

Thanks guys. I was thinking around $2500 too.

So, to make a long story short, my 1984 turbo wagon was involved in an accident last week...It's totalled. My question is this...My insurance company is doing everything to get me a good amount on the car, which they originally were unsucessful...Uh, $500 for an 84 turbowagon? Don't offend me dude. I even had a bet with my adjuster to actually find an 84 turbowagon for sale...He lost. Anyways, there's a professional appraisal company that does custom choppers and classic cars coming to my house on Monday to check out my car to tack a proper dollar amount to it. I have stacks of receipts for it, which is all going to add value to the car but, was wondering what you guys think is a good value for the car. For those of you that HAVEN'T seen it... It's perfectly straight, with perfect paint...Not a ding. Perfect interior, nothing missing, chipped, ripped or messed up 140k miles tinted windows Greddy turbo timer Clifford alarm Pioneer deck and 4 5.5" door speakers BRAND new Bridgestone Potenza RE930's VERY recently powder-coated wagon wheels and all the engine mods, Accel coil, NGK wires, etc etc... brand new radiator, brakes, water pump, etc... EVERY service record done to the car, since it was a baby. So, what do you guys think? I'm going to present this thread to the appraisal company to show them the value and demand for these cars. Thanks tons, Daniel

Nice melon launcher

Oh no prob. dude. If you go to a stereo store, just ask them...All the guys that sell that crap will know every vendor and online store where you can get them. BTW: They are cool too because the long skinny rectangular piece under the stereo, on the front there...Is PERFECT for mounting switches for fog lights, fans, etc... If you notice, I have my driving lights switch and hidden behind the shift lever is the light for my alarm.

Travis, are you talking about the black mounting plate for our CD players? If so, they are actually mounting plates for stereo stores, you know when you go to like Best Buy or Car Toys and there's all the CD players on the wall...What we use is what they use to mount the CD players in. I looked around online but, couldn't find any for sale, but they are obviously out there.

Eh.... When I find my digi cam...It's MIA. I can't do it...

Does anyone know how many turbo wagons Subaru made in 1984? Is there a somewhat valid source I can find this info??? Thanks, Daniel

Are you looking for the 12v constant or the 12v accessory??? The 12v accessory should be connected to the wire on the back of the ignition switch that is...Blue I think...Anyways, it's the same one that runs your stereo, so if you have an aftermarket CD player in your car, you'll see the same wire will be tapped into to send power to the CD player, but only when the key is at the ACC position, obviously not at the Off or any other position (so you don't have constant power to that wire) Invest in a voltmeter, even a cheap 12 dollar one from Wal-Mart will work good for small projects like this. Use the voltmeter to find your constant power, 12v acc, starter signal and so forth on the back of your ignition switch where your wires connect to it, this is the best place because the wires/solder is/are exposed so you don't have to go probing around the 5 ignition wires finding which one holds constant power and which one just power when the starter is engaged. Another good thing to do is on the 12v accessory wire is to run an inline fuse so if something happens it will fry the fuse and kill the power rather then frying your boost controller and/or turbo timer. Hope this helps dude. Daniel

The turbo timer is literally the coolest electronic piece you can buy for your turbocharged car...Cheap too. When I get off work, I'll post my installation notes. Later, Daniel

You can see in this pic from like 2 years ago where I mounted my Greddy turbo timer. It's actually a really good location, easy to get to, looks good, etc...

Rad! Brad, are you down???

So, good news... I got the car running today! Thanks for everyone's help! Here's what I did: I pulled the #1 spark plug like everyone said..Then ran up the street and bought a 22mm socket to crank the motor. So, I'd crank the motor and I'd get TDC on #1 cylinder (when the pressure against my finger stops) but, when I'm at TDC on the cylinder, the mark on the flywheel is at 6 degrees (to the right of 0) not 0 degrees. So, on a whim, I put the disty in, replace the spark plug, yada yada yada yada...Start the car....BRRRRRRRRRUHHHHMMMM...1st try! Purrs like a kitten, again. I drove it briefly around my neighborhood, until it got to normal operating temp...Then I went to work (without the car). So, here's my question...Since I'm at TDC at 6 degrees on the flywheel, does that mean my timing is WAYYYYYYYYY messed up and the car shouldn't be driven until it's timed correctly? I didn't notice any pinging and/or rough running when I was cruising around my neighborhood, but I'm worried I still need to time it. What do you guys think??? Thanks again, really... Daniel

So, I'm cranking the motor with my socket and I'm getting pressure pushing against my finger on the #1 cylinder before the timing marks come up on the flywheel...I feel the most pressure, right before it goes away before the timing marks are even there. Is this normal??? Should I still find TDC and set my rotor accordingly? Or is my timing WAY messed up???