lastchance

OWNT! Where's he at? He needs to see that.

Wow...I just missed it.

So, I just changed the oil, did the ritual SeaFoam thing, added Lucas Oil Stabilizer, and topped off the radiator. I took off the disty cap and noticed it was *dead* so I replaced that with a brand new one. The disty itself is fine, the rotor has no play...Which is good. So, we'll see how it goes...Hopefully it'll run better. Thanks for the help again guys.

*sigh* ttt No one has a FPM anymore?

Yeah, I was thinking that may be just the problem. When I leave work today I will see if it does it again, try to monitor the problem a little more.

I've been having odd symptoms the past few days in my 1984 carbed wagon. I'm getting an inconsistant miss on the freeway, but only on the freeway and only in 4th gear. At WOT and cruising in 1st-2nd-3rd gear it's fine, but just cruising along on the freeway in 4th between say 50-65mph it has a weird miss/loss of power. The miss lasts ony for a split second but does it intermitenly when staying in 4th gear between these speeds. It seems like it's only when the car is cold, like when I just start it up and go to work or am leaving work. When it's started up while still warm, it doesn't seem to do it. I was keeping in eye on it this morning when I was coming in and noticed that the voltmeter or the oil pressure gauge doesn't drop. It didn't even seem like the RPMs were dropping while it was missing. I've also noticed my exhaust smells different, like less like gas and more like....I don't know something more stinky/stale. Could I have gotten bad gas or could my catalytic converter be dead? Could the catalytic converter being dead cause my car to miss at freeway speeds-Loss of back pressure? I know a dead/dying one will smell sulfur/rotten eggs-esque and that's sorta what it smells like. So, it's got a newer disty and cap from about 4 months ago, I only run premium gas, it has newer NGK wires, the spark plugs look fine, and I just cleaned the carb yesterday the best I could with Carb/Choke Medic. BTW, I'm not getting any check engine codes. Thanks in advance.

Anyone???

Hey, I need someone to check the OEM Subaru part number #752420001, I just need to make sure it's the right part I need. What I'm hoping it is, is the front valance for the lowest part of the radiator support for my '84 wagon. Thanks in advance, Daniel

OMG...That's amazing

This is a good question...I searched around the NABISCO board and found some (maybe all) gen 2 legacys don't have them either, neither do some (maybe all) phase I ej205s. Hmmm...

Rad...I like the XT video! Is this the video camera you used to film it?

They are talking about ECU trouble codes that are pulled from the ECU/ECM. CLICK ME FOR ALL THE INFO YOU'LL EVAR NEED!

I'm going to be messing around with it tomorrow morning before I go into work. I'll see if there's bushing(s) worn and make sure everything is properly tightened...Maybe that's all it needs.

I'm having some issues with my '84 wagon with an automatic transmission. The shifter seems to almost stick when shifting all through the gears, like going from P to 2 and back from 2 to P. I recently did a full drain and flush and added a can of SeaFoam Trans-Tune to see if it'd help, but didn't seem to do the trick. It seems like it's less of an actual mechanical problem IN the tranny and more of a linkage problem with the shifter assembly. Is there any direction you guys can point me in to help SMOOTH out my shifting???? Thanks, Daniel

^That'd be the WORST job EVER huh, Mike?

I dunno, it's crazy though... That '75 that I looked at last week so SUPER clean too.

Uh huh

Check it out guys...It's nice! http://rallitekforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2665

^For sure, I was using "425cc" as an example, I didn't mean it to sound like I was specifically saying ea82t's are 425cc! Leaning out and detonating the motor is something I mentioned earlier that is a HUGE factor in cracking blocks, blowing HG's, etc... Rallitek has a 5th injector for their stock ej25/ej22 bolt on turbo kits which is actually a pretty cool deal, if you are looking at that sort of thing, I'd check out their website to see how that set up looks. 100% duty cycle...That is WAY harder then your fuel system/injectors should EVER have to work, which obviously leads us to what was mentioned above with bigger injectors, hotter spark and adjustments in engine timing to get you to the level (basically less than 80% duty cycle) you need/want WITHOUT having to sacrifice the longevity of your fuel system (fuel pump, injectors, etc) Bolt in a ej22...They are dime-a-dozen and like Snowman said 140hp stock!

Injectors don't "open" buddy...They pulse. Trying to send more fuel through an injector that is set to only pulse say 425cc is going to be limited by just that, 425cc. In newer cars, it's all about pressure and pulse duration, not sheer volume. Forcing more fuel through your fuel system to only be held up at your injectors is like building a dam on a river. Yes, but if you boost the stock block and heads, what are you going to do for fuel and spark management? Why not just find an ea82t to put in your SPFI car? I think this would be the EASIEST way.

No prob...Good luck

Well...When you add a RRFPR you better get bigger injectors, because what would be the point of more fuel if you don't have injectors big enough to get that fuel in the compression chamber in a consistant and constant manner? Also, just adding a RRFPR is NOT going to do much good if you don't have the spark and timing to compensate for the added fuel. My advice on the T-Bird... First: Turn the boost down or detonation is going to kill your motor. Second: Find a T-Bird or Ford message board to post questions about it. Third: When you blow the motor up on the T-Bird, install the intercooler on your boosted Subaru. ^Clarify this...Do you want consistancy and drivability or speed and sketchiness? You can boost that motor to 2 bar but, it won't last long! Stock boost on an ea81t or ea82t is ~8 lbs, so you can use that as a starting point.

I just ran out and measured the sunroof on my '84 TW... It's 34.5"x18.75" That's from edge to edge of the gasket both ways. So...The actual hole for the sunroof/the glass is probably about an inch narrower each way. So, realistically the actual glass is probably about 33"x18"

x10000000000 ^You lost me there

Wow...This car is super clean...It has a little bit of rust on the passenger side wheel well and on both rocker panels. The paint is INSANELY clean...But, I think it's actually the original paint. The guy was cool, older, didn't know a whole lot about Subarus. I didn't buy it BTW....Just went to check it out.