samo

If the hatch lock on a Gen-1 is anything like on an EA82, it's super-easy to remove. There's just a clip holding it in place - probably... 1 minute to remove it? Might be easier than messing around with the ignition.

...sigh... I swear to god, people don't even read. As both Jamie and I said above: Pre-Federal VINs are pretty much useless to your local parts department, especially for cutting keys. An Outback, by definition, would have a Federal VIN, since it's from the nineties. A car from the era of the Gen-1s would have a pre-Federal VIN, thus, of little use. 1. Remove lock cylinder from vehicle. 2. Take lock cylinder to locksmith. 3. Have locksmith make a key to fit lock cylinder. 4. Pay locksmith. 5. Reinstall lock cylinder. 6. Test key. 7. Make a number of copies of said key. Easy .

Jamie's right, those pre-Federal VINs usually don't show up in a dealer's key code system. Older vehicles (pre early-Eighties) had shorter VINs, not the Federally-mandated 17-digit ones we're used to these days. Much less information is encoded in these older VINs. You'll probably have to pop a lock out, as mentioned above, and take it to a locksmith.

You don't drive where I drive . Out in the woods, 50 miles from civilization, the more light the better, and light off to the sides and behind you is wonderful, even when moving slowly. The ability to aim a series of lights where I need them is a benefit only achieved with a number of lights in different places. Plus, having a whole crapload of lights just looks cool . EDIT: Post 666, the number of the beast! Hell and fire was spawned to be released!

Here be my monster: Those are cheapo Pilot driving lights, like $30 a pair at GI Joe's. I put Sylvania Xtravisions in them and you know, they actually work pretty well. They're not Lightforces by any means, but they're plenty of light for me. The wiring is run through the antenna hole, through an aluminum cover plate I made.

Rawk on. That's gonna look evil!

North Seattle here.

As for the struts and such, I'm not sure. There's quite a number of threads floating around that have such information. Give the search function a whirl, I'm sure you'll find your answer. As for the speedo reading, use this tool to figure out how much it will be off.

You don't have to recalibrate the spedometer. In fact, I'm not sure how you would go about recalibrating it in the first place. You'd probably have to get an aftermarket speedometer... or learn to live with it . You'll notice a little drop in effective gearing, meaning you might have to downshift a little bit more, but the EJ has enough grunt that it's nothing to worry about.

That's sort of a contridiction in terms, isn't it? For super-cheap, build one. For the best, BYB kits take the cake for a small lift.

Bias ply .

I'm using a set of studded Hankook WP401s this year and I love them, even more than my old Yoko K2s. My car lives at about 3000 ft, so it sees snow every day. Does just fine with those Hankooks.

Mine are off too. The car trudges through snow, dirt, and rocks every day, and so far, no ill effects.

No such thing as a bad free Subaru.

Sounds like typical 4WD binding to me. As mentioned above, the lack of a center diff on 4WD Soobs causes them to bind on corners. You should never ever run 4WD on dry pavement. It's very hard on the transmission to have it bind up, and you can break things if you do it too often. As for the whining, my S/R '93 whines like crazy in 4WD, especially 1st gear. Seems normal, all the others I've been in do the same thing, including my old '92.

Here's mine near the top of NFS 112 outside Hyak, WA. Yeah, it's not a Legacy, but it is a 90s model .

Of course, that's on an Isuzu rear axle...

Ha! I shift at 4500 all day long. 186,000 and still running like a champ. Most who hear it purr say they've never heard an EA82 run so smooth. My old one is probably well past 200,000 and it's still running.

D/R for sure. I've got a pushbutton and it sucks. One of these days I'll get that D/R that's sitting in John's garage *sigh* ...

Not quite true. A speaker can accept low-voltage DC for a little bit - i.e. touching a wire accidentally. I wouldn't do it for an hour, but a second or two won't usually nuke a speaker. I acutally do it on purpose sometimes to check polarity.

Position is still open, guys and girls!

Take a looksee here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50840

Best cages EVER.

^ Check your PMs BlueSoob, I tried to respond to yours, but your inbox is full. Give Ken Pratt in parts a call tomorrow, he'll be able to answer your question better than I. 425.641.2002

We're hiring! Looking for a parts driver for our Bellevue Subaru/VW dealership. This is a great way to get your foot in the door at a Subaru dealership! This is a Monday-Friday job, no weekends, full time. You'll get great benefits, employee discounts, sick leave, holidays off, the works! The right candidate will possess: Excellent organization skills Attention to detail Good interpersonal skills A clean driving record You can direct any questions to me, or ask for Ken Pratt, our parts manager at 425.641.2002. www.chaplinssubaru.com