samo

Looks great, Miles! Can't wait to see all the wacky modifications you're going to come up with.

Chaplin's rocks. Their parts driver is soooo cool .

The one outside my apartment does the same thing. It seems that whenever anyone walks or drives underneath it, it shuts off, and then promptly turns back on when the "offender" is gone.

^ Same here. Love my Silverstars. I don't personally think the lighting is that bad. It sure is better than my Chevy.

I just had to have mine replaced this week, as it seized and sheared off the teeth on the driver's t-belt.

Wasn't Haystack Rock in some of the shots in that movie? I remember them saying the town was Astoria, but it wasn't.

Uh, that's because that IS the beach from the Goonies . Yarr, shiver me timbers, thems be some mighty fine pictures ye be posting, matey.

I think it's the 'T' on the end of the 'EA82' that generally kills it .

Thanks, Gary! That makes me feel a lot better. I'd guess that the e-brake is still pulling a bit on the driver's side, not letting the piston seat. I'll pull the cable out on that side and try to reseat it. If you think of what you did to free the cable, let me know, I'm interested. Thanks guys!

Okay, I'm just going to square with you here. There is nothing - nothing that can make an EA82 look good - not without spending a bunch of cash. Brad's car is nice-looking, and I really dig it for what it is, but it's still a tipped-over-refridgerator on wheels, even if those wheels are 17s . Aside from cars such as the AMC Pacer, the Toyota Echo, and the Ford Mustang II, there's not much out there less racy-looking than an EA82, unless the race look you're going for is the rally look. Every time I'm near the local high school I always get a good laugh out of the kids that are going to make a "showcar" out of their mom's Chrysler LeBaron or an early-nineties Ford T-bird. These cars, the EA82 included have zero aftermarket support in this realm, and thus, are difficult to modify for looks. It can be done - Brad's car is the example - the one example, and a fine example it is. But I'm sure he would agree that making an EA82 look good is not exactly easy or cheap. If you want a car to modify to look good, I recommend an Impreza. There's plenty of aftermarket support and you've got a great engine to start with. As for your sedan, if it's 4WD, lift it, wheel it, get it dirty. That's where these old Subies rock.

Cool, I'll check and see whether it's the caliper or the cable binding up and replace as necessary. What about the driver's side? What could be keeping the piston from seating all the way in its bore?

The adjustment on the handle is fine - checked it, it's loosening the cable like it should. The left side releases, the right side just goes slack, but doesn't release at the caliper. I have a decent tool for turning the pistons - it's just that the left piston does not want to move back into its bore. It rotates fine, but doesn't retract. Need I apply pressure into the piston to retract it? Rotors aren't bad. The right is worn a bit more than the left, as it has apparently had its brakes dragged for a while, but both have plenty of life left.

By "not keeping a charge" do you mean the battery won't hold a charge when the car's off, or it's not charging when the car is running? If the latter, does it make a difference whether the lights are on or not? If it won't hold a charge when it's off, you ought to check your wiring. If it won't hold it when it's running, your alt could be kaput or just not big enough, or your wiring could have a minor short somewheres.

Ahh, see, now that would be the smart thing to do. If the cable is bad, what's the difficulty level of the replacement?

^ bing! Post-94 Justys (Justies?) are Suzuki Swift / Geo Metros.

So, I went out to change out the front pads on Sunshine, my '92 EA82, and it looks like the right side e-brake is jammed on, thus, dragging the brake on that side. How do I unjam this thing? I took a look at the mechanism on the back of the caliper, but I don't really know what to look for, so I couldn't tell if it looked right or not. On the left side, the boot around the piston is all torn up. Problem? Or just 'forget about it?' I was also unable to get the piston to fully seat in its bore via twisting. It seemed like it would not move at all. Any help is appreciated !

Cheap car with not-so-great paint. Old Subies aren't really cars many people are willing to spend a whole lot of money claying, waxing, and polishing to keep them looking nice.

Read me.

^ The Datsun 200SX may be called the S12 Silvia over there.

Peugeot alloys would fit in that category.

Saab 9-2X 2.0T Subaru WRX Wagon Not quite true.

Haha... that's the first thing I thought of when I read the post. I was thinking "how on earth would you add a Spicer joint to a wheel?" But then it made sense. You may not have to change the lug nuts themselves, but the studs may have to be changed depending on the width of the spacer. When I put spacers on my previous shop's Audi, we needed new lug bolts on the rear where we added 15MM spacers. The fronts which got only 5MM didn't need them. It'll all just depend on how wide you go.

As neat as the ER27 is, as mentioned, the EJ is a much better swap if you're looking for any of the practical attributes that make up a car. It's more reliable, easier to work on, easier to find parts for, and just an all-around great engine. The ER27 is just 1.5 EA82s, and has the same issues, only in an even bigger package. Mounting the radiator is difficult, and I'd hate to try to cram a wrench into that engine bay.

^ ding! I was about to post that. The trailing edge of the Brat door glass curves forward significantly, whereas it does not on hatch/coupe glass.

Just wait until the PortalTek axles come out. Ford 9" diff, nodular iron axle tubes (square like a Rockwell), and some pretty wild portal box ratios, in addition to out-of-the-box Wilwood brakes. Yeah, they're $4000 an axle, but for the most insane rigs, they'll be amazing.