samo

WRXs have boost gauges as an option, it's the one that mounts to the left side of the steering column. I really question the accuracy of any stock gauge, though. If you're not planning on tuning your Baja for more power (i.e. turning up the boost) a boost gauge is probably unnecessary, except for the "cool" factor.

^ haha! You have to fix the stuff that Paul destroys? Ahh, I pity you after seeing what he did to that wheel and left front control arm at Wild West !

Haha, that's probably true, although I wonder how the EJ D/Rs hold up to power. I'm sure better than an EA trans, though . I sure wish I could order them through Subaru, that would make a lot of people happy, but sadly, our catalog only covers North America. Shipping a transmission isn't cheap, but for the right toys, it's worth it. Come on you Aussie guys . Ahh, but an EA D/R would have kept my clutch from going as well . Or, for that matter, a better clutch. That said, I can see the attraction, I certainly would love to have an RX D/R with the GL D/R low range set. P.S. That clutch is still in there too . It'll be XT6 clutch time if/when I ever get my too-expensive D/R .

Short throws are usually accomplished by moving the fulcrum with respect to the shift knob. I.E. if you extended the bottom of the shift lever or shortened the top, or even better, do both at the same time. You could saw a bit off the shifter and reattach the knob, but you'd have to remove quite a bit before the throw would be much shorter.

Ha, your hood is as smashed as mine! Awesome The lights aren't my thing, I much prefer round or square lights, but hey, if they work, they work. BTW - it's UltimateSubaru.net .

Keep in mind that the low range reduction is more like an RX D/R than the typical GL D/R we're used to. Gearing is already an issue for us with the GL transmission and it's 1.596:1. Even with lower diff ratios, I think gearing will be a major issue. Also, keep in mind that the center diff on EJ transmissions is limited slip, not locked (well, nonexistant to be accurate) of the GL D/R. This, I would imagine, could lead to traction issues, although the EJ transmissions do have a fairly aggressive center diff. It's a neat find, but 1. good luck getting one in the States, and even more to the point, if you're building an offroader, why not use the EA transmission?

If you want to find our spot, look for a white Econoline with red stripes and a red and black EA82 wagon. We'll be parked next to Cavett Rally Racing, who will have a teal box truck. I'm the short kid with a black ponytail. We're #215 Thomas/Gauger.

Another vote for Performance Radiator. I don't even remember how many radiators I've bought from them, and they're always fit great, not to mention the customer service rocks.

I will likely be there, working service for Jamie.

I'm all for a BBQ, wherever it's at. Tacoma's not that far of a drive .

Wow, those are a new one on me! I actually kinda like them! Good find.

I assume you're talking about getting more clearance under your axles? The only way to do it is with larger tires. I run 185/70/14s on mine, which is about 1" of extra clearance.

You likely won't notice anything other than more noise. You won't get as much cool air from outside the car, which can actually hamper performance in warm weather, as well as lead to pinging, especially on a poorly-tuned engine. Other than that, it's just more noise. A clean OEM or K&N filter already flows way more air than the engine needs. If you really need more air, a cone filter will suffice, or replace your stock filter with an aftermarket panel filter. I ran a cone filter on my '92, and it didn't do much aside from make a bunch of racket and look kinda cool. On the '93, I've got a K&N solely because it's cleanable and was not much more than an OEM filter. Some have reported MAF issues with aftermarket oil-impregnated filters, but I'm of the persuasion that this is due to over-oiling.

Haha, and I was all worried that you were selling Summer .

Yeah, no kidding. Glad I live where there's no salt.

I would love to know as well. I certainly would rather have a FT4WD D/R with the low gears of a standard GL D/R, rather than the GL D/R that I'll never get from John.

Now that is a good-looking wagon. Well-played.

That Krylon Stained Glass works great. I made my old Sentra's tails all red with it, and if you didn't know better, you'd think it was factory. Looked fantastic!

You may find that over time the red marker will burn off the bulbs, leaving you with pink or orange. I've found that red bulbs (Polarg Hyper-Red are the ones I've used before) are much longer-lasting, in general.

He's talking about an oil catch can. For those who may not already know, it goes inline on the PCV hoses to catch the oil that would otherwise be dumped into the manifold. It'll work just fine. Your intake manifold is that big silver thing that sits on top of the engine. It has four legs, each leading to a cylinder. As for the PCV valve, what engine have you got?

Okay.

This article I wrote for the USRM might be of use: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50840 It contains part numbers for the dash kit and wiring harness you may want, as well as info about the common-ground wiring system. Hope it's useful .

Looks cool. Did you use red bulbs or did you coat the backs of the gauges with something red?

My $0.02 is a preference for Red Robin, just because Dicks doesn't have Gardenburgers, but I realize I'm in the minority. Blue Star on Stone and 45th is my fave, but it's in the Red Robin price bracket. They do have lots of beer on tap though . Weekends, weeknights are awesome for me.

If your door key also started the car, the locksmith should be able to duplicate that. It might take a couple tries for an older lock, but it should work.