daredevil1166

There are cast aluminim 1" spacers available. It might be those jackson rally ones. I have 1.5" spacers and the strut mounting stud sticks above them. I just took a torch and cut a hole in the top plate of the spacers that is the same size of the hole in the original strut mount on the car. I'm sure one of the lift makers here could modify a set to work for you.

Driving down the road last week I heard a "pop.....psssssssssssssssssssss". Some A**hole's nail in the road cost me $500 in new tires. Then on the same night I had to torch off a wheel stud on my GF's Sentra when I tried to do the brakes because the tire place cross threaded the lug nut. YAY! 30 minute job turned into 3 hour job with all the running around for parts.

How about a combo TSF and Sandlake trip later in September? Head out Saturday morning. Play in TSF. Then camp at Sandlake Saturday night. Play at Sandlake on Sunday before heading home. I'm super busy and may not be able to go so I wouldn't organize it. But it would be a good trip if someone wants to organize it.

That's exactly what I was thinking. I think the sharp corners on an Outback... which has really round corners. But it definetly looks beefy.

I'm scared of TSF on Labor Day weekend. Holy busy.....

I hate you! That's an awesome deal. Mind telling us total dollars and hours spent?

I think you're getting waaay ahead of yourself. Just take the car to an auto parts place that can test the battery. Or buy a cheap Harbor Freight load tester. It's very simple to check things without all this guessing.

I use quite a few Harbor Freight tools all day every day. I rarely have one that doesn't stand up to the job. My Snap-On wrenches and sockets definetly fit better than most any others I've had. And I really like Snap-On's battery powered tools. Their 3/8 battery powered impact is fun as hell to use. Super light and I think it could twist my arm off. Obviously you have an aversion to HF's tools. Alot of people do. But this might help you save some money. I have a stand up HF toolbox. Black. I've had it for almost four years and it works like it was new. That would be a great way to make your budget stretch. I had a Husky one before that.(Home Depot's house brand?) I returned it. It was terrible compared to the HF one, and 2.5 times as much money. I won't go any further. I might get beaten by the elitist tool nazi's.

I'd check to see if there is a current draw on the battery when parked and off. There may be a little but if it's too much it'll run your battery down.

Hmmmm... I'm thinking I have other issues too. I have a general noise when I'm driving. Like a bearing. And I have a horrible noise in reverse. Sounds like I'm beating two pieces of metal together when I back up. What kind of an issue does that point to?

HAHA.... I'm stealing that. I figured out with my old 88 DL that if you messed with adjustments you could make the hill holder ONLY hold when you pushed it REALLY hard. No, I don't remember exactly how I did that. But it was cool. I could decide when it held. I was thinking I could figure out something like that with a newer one. I don't know. Never even seen a newer hill holder system. That's on my someday/maybe list. First I've got to get rid of the horrible racket my trans is making. And get new BFG TA KO's. F-ing nails in the road.

I don't.... well actually... I kinda do. I hate the hydraulic system. But that's not what I'm going for here. I was wanting to know if a trans from a car with a cable operated clutch would work in my 99 with a hydraulic clutch. Someday I might get ambitious and try to rig a cable operated clutch and hill holder from a 96 up in mine.

I really hate those eight bolts anyway. They irritate me every time I pull the engine. I just had to buy the most oddball Outback around. Should have gotten a 96. Great info. Thanks a bunch. I'll just keep looking for a 97-99 OB trans. I don't really have time to figure anything else out or run into issues. Gotta have it fixed. Apparently I have to actually go to work to get paid and I only have 1 car.

I think those of you with experience will know this right off. I have a 99 Outback with a hydraulic clutch. Will a trans with a cable operated clutch work in it? Of course I'd have to use the fork from the hydraulic one. As far as I can figure out, any 4.11 trans will work for me if the clutches will work right. Right? Any other issues with this plan? Anybody have a 4.11 EJ trans they want to get rid of cheap? Thanks for your help, I'm getting frustrated trying to figure all this out.

I did the HG's on my 99 a few months ago. It could be that I just haven't heard, but I don't know of any HG job that has been done right with OEM gaskets going bad again. I used all OEM parts from subarugenuineparts.com. I just gave them my VIN and noted to please check that all parts match the VIN. They've been great about it and have caught a couple wrong parts for me. Oh, wait, I used aftermarket valve cover gaskets. Fel-Pro. It was easier because they come in a kit with the grommets and spark plug hole gaskets. Yes, the valves are easy to adjust when the engine is out. The idea is to measure the valve clearance before disassembling the engine. Order the correct shims right away. Then, by the time you have the heads back from the machine shop your shims should be in. I'd just get the shims from your local dealer. They're relatively cheap. Most dealers have a local suppier that can get them in a day or so, but I'd check with yours. Just be sure to mark and organize all of the shims and buckets as you're taking them out. Then make sure you re-measure after you put the new shims in. The best advice I can give you is to take it slow and read the factory service manual as many times as you can get yourself to.(there's a thread somewhere on where to download the FSM)

I'm in. Price dependent of course. Be sure that at least two light mount tabs are included. But they're inconspicous enough that if they're not used it won't look stupid. I would probably prefer an unpainted one so I could add or modify things before it is painted. Then I'd paint it with bedliner. That should lower the initial cost as well.

I like the look of those wheels alot. Very nice.

Hey cool! I've had my sway bars off for awhile now. (Since I broke the front playing in the sand. ) Makes a huge difference off road. I've been thinking for a long time that a few hitch pins would make a good way to have a quick disconnect. I was planning on trying it. Glad to know it worked for you.

The four lower corners of the fender. When turning.

I have 215/70's which are a little shorter than 205/75's. The Geolandars aren't available in in 205/75. I'd like to fit a 215/75 but I don't think I can without serious rubbing.

I'm lazy... so I'll copy/paste what I wrote on another thread.... I've had the General Grabber AT/2's. They were great for traction but not tough at all. Super soft rubber that chunks out easily. At 10k they were 3/4 through treadwear life as well. The Pirelli all seasons that came with my car were tougher than the grabbers. I have Geolandar AT/S's now. Traction isn't as good, but they're a much much tougher tire. I've only put about half as many miles on the Geo's as I did the Grabbers but, the treadwear seems much better too. I have been on a few trails with the Geo's that I know would have just shredded the Grabbers.

Those are General Grabber AT/2's. But, for the record, I don't have them anymore and I would never buy them again. Pics of the car? Or the tires? Either way you can check HERE and see if you can find what you want.

My '99 Outback is lifted with just strut top blocks. 1.5" in the front 2" in the rear(I like a raked back look). Turned out great and it was relatively cheap. I'm getting ready to add another 1/2' worth of spacers all around to see how that works out.

About tires.... I've had the General Grabber AT/2's. They were great for traction but not tough at all. Super soft rubber that chunks out easily. At 10k they were 3/4 through treadwear life as well. I have Geolandar AT/S's now. Traction isn't as good, but they're a much much tougher tire. I've only put about half as many miles on the Geo's as I did the Grabbers but, the treadwear seems much better too. Bad thing is they don't have a 205/75-15. You'd have to go with a 215 in either 70 or 75.

Clearance is ok. I'd say 1/4 inch between tire and strut in the rear. More in front. I have KYB GR2's for struts, dont know if the diameter of the strut is the same as stock. They don't rub at all. I can't put tire chains on the rear though. Not really. Like I said in my first post, I'm not interested in speculation as to wether this would work or not. I just wanted to know if anyone had done it.