WoodsWagon

The driveshaft has a spline on it where it goes into the tranny. It can't give any stabilizing force to the transmission. If you're launching in 4wd, it will give rotational force to the tranny, but no up and down. The feeling of increasing power in a gear is because of the power curve on the engine. You do not have all the power all the time at all the RPM ranges. The power builds as you rev the engine up in the same gear, hence the pulling harder the longer you have it at WOT. There's nothing wrong, it's normal. If you keep the engine up in the higher rpm's (3k-5k) it'll feel better.

Whoo.. I made it. More impressively, the car made it. Total miles on engine before departure: 75. I left NH round 4pm on sunday, made it to a truckstop on I90 in New York, Passed out. Monday: drove for 2 hours to buffalo where my brake pad's shattered coming up to the tollbooths. Then to the Subaru dealer for pads (75 bucks), then to the carquest for the pads (14 bucks), then to the parking lot of "Alternative Brews" to install them, found the wheel bearing was shot on the drivers side, went to Buffalo Discount Muffler and Brake to get the bearings pressed out of my spare hub and into the one on the car (all work done on the car in a puddle in a parkinglot in the rain, It sucked. The Buffalo muffler guy was great, did the work for free to swap the bearings (I forced 20 bucks on him cause I felt bad). Got rolling again at 9 pm, made it to a truckstop in Ohio. Tuesday. Woke up, broke hood release cable, locked keys in car. Spent 1 hour finding someone who had a tool I could use to get it back open. Some trucker from michigan had this 3/8" rod hooky thingy that I could reach in the window and poke the lock with. Left round 10 AM, Got stuck in traffic in Chicago (construction), drove untill I got 1/3 of the way across nebraska. Passed out, worried about the oil level that I couldn't check. Wednesday: drove to Lander wyoming and Arrived at 4:30 pm. Showered, ate slept, used USMB to figure out how to open hood, checked oil on dipstick, there was none. Oh shiznit! drained 1.5 quarts of black thickness out of pan and filter, put new filter and 4.2 quarts in. Engine happy. Average MPG=25 23 at 80mph, 27 at 65mph. Check engine light on over o2 sensor. Sorry I didn't stop to say hi to anyone, it was kinda the drive till you're too sleepy to stay in your lane mindset. I'll areange a way to stop by on the way home. I'm leaving the 27 or 28 of Aug. Send me a PM with cell # and adress, a lifted EJ22 loyale w/ winch and bumper will stop by.

I'm in Lander WY untill the 28 of august (school starts Sep 5 in New Hampshire) So if something goes down before then, I'm in.

I'm headed to Lander. Staying 10 days with family, then driving home. In my book, wyomings worth it. I might do some wheeling up by Dubios. NOLS thought they were showing me how to do an expedition by backpack through the wind river mtn's, I was busy noting the 4x4 trails. If anyone want's to give me their cell #, just send a PM and I'll find a library to look at them from. Much appreciated.

I'm driving from New hampshire to Wyoming starting tomorrow. The majority will be on Route 80. I'm driving a lifted Loyale with a fresh EJ22 swap. I'm hoping for the best, but when something breaks, is there anyone who lives near that route that I could call on?

You should have cruised around with the "Low ride-er, drives a little slower" song cranking. I wouldn't make a practice of hauling that much, it can't be good for the wheel bearings.

The automatic AWD system adds mostly weight, and a bit of drag from bearings and the rear differential. Short of removing everything, It's not worth the bother to get better MPG. Concentrate on the engine's efficiency. Are the O2 sensors functioning properly, is the fuel injection system clean, are the sparkplugs worn or fresh. Make sure there are no vacuum leaks, and the PCV system isn't clogged. Make sure that the right thermostat is in the car. General tune up stuff. Driving style makes a big difference too. try to drive so that you don't have to use the breaks often. Slow down from 80 to 65 on the highway. If your car has a roof rack or a spoiler, you can remove them and seal the holes.

See where the dimple is on the back of the cat? If you cut a hole in the heatshielding right above that, it takes most of the contact away. Mine still rubs where the strut rod mount is, but it's not bad enought for me to do anything about it. I welded the flange from teh EA82 cat onto the EJ one so that I could use the EA second cat and exhaust. The EA pipe at the flange almoast fits inside the EJ cat pipe if you cut it's flange off. I heated the EJ pipe till it was glowing and just pounded in the flange with it's stub of pipe. It seems restrictive, but it's ok for now. I alo had to do lots of patch work on the EJ header. Frickin rust. This job reminded me how bad I suck at welding.

WVO= waste vegatable oil. Fryalator grease. Get the stuff that stays liquid at room temperature, filter it, and build a system to heat it in the car. I converted a 1984 rabbit over, then the injector pump shattered, the coolant leaked continuously, the belt flew off, chunks of rust fell out, basically it behaved like a real VW. It's sitting in my woods right now, I'll get back to it eventually. There are many other diesels out there. The VW one's are the most common in the US, but in europe there are numerous varieties of engines. There is a diesel for any weight and power range imaginable.

Just got mine running. WOOT! Started first try. Right now, I'm using the ignition key to start the car, and the EJ ignition switch is turned on by a screwdriver. It runs nice, loud as hell, I only have two 1' long headers on it. The wiring is a mess, and I'll spend the next couple of days tidying it up and interfacing it with the EA dash. I'm using the EA82 SPFI fuel pump and it seems to be working. Not sure about WOT at high load, not going to do that untill the rings have broken in. This engine has more pickup at 1/2 throttle than the old one did at full.

Do you get more body twist with the crossmember notched? I hadn't thought about lowering the bottom of it. How low does your oil pan ride?

Yeah, the tubing just twisted off. What got me was that they came off the legacy no probs, then sheared right off the loyale. Both are the same age, so.. Anyway, if I had known, I would have soaked them in penetrating oil first. I'm going to use a flare union to join the high pressure side back together. For the return, I'm just going to clamp some rubber tubing over the break. As a side note, the cast iron PS pump from EA's fits the EJ spot with only a little enlargement of the clearance holes for the 3 bolts. The resevoir swaps over and all the lines swap to it just fine. The serpentine belt pully also swaps. This could go both ways, so if your pump ever dies, both EJ and EA pumps can be used.

I run 30" mud tires on this car. I NEED power steering. Believe me, I know that these cars don't do bad without PS. I have a non-ps EA82 rack sitting around. The car I pulled it out of handled fine, but it had stock wheels on it, and I wasn't trying to maneuver it around on trails. I think I'll end up cuttin the ends and using unions with flares.

The whole pitch stopper setup worked on mine. The legacy mounting bracket bolts right up to the EA tranny. The legacy stopper rod just fit, but I also have the 3" drop blocks on the engine crossmember. I cut the engine mounts to fit and it seems like it will work fine. The oil pan is a big concern. I will be getting another one and another pickup tube to modify. I know I'm going to smash that sucker in on accident. It stickes 1/2" lower than the lowest point on the crossmember. The fittings between the hard lines leading to the Power steering rack (EA82) match the EJ ones, you will have to bend the lines a bit, but they will thread into the flex lines leading up to the pump. This connection is down on the crossmember right by the passenger side axel. The EJ radiator is too tall for the EA body. You'd have to chop the front off the hood to make it fit, and everything would be floppy. No good. A custom airbox will be needed. I'm jamming the EJ one in that corner for now, but it looks bad and is loose. I tried modding the EA box to fit the EJ MAF, but then the intake hose wouldn't fit. The EA MAF also looks like a really bad restriction.

I could send you a copy of the plans my father drew up. It's coordinates to mill off of, and the plate we made fit perfect. PM me with your adress Edit: I'm in the middle of hooking up my wiring for the car, so I won't be able to do anything else for a couple of days. I've got my court date thurs morning, so I'll see about making copy's thurs afternoon. Possibly a small fee, I'll see.

The flare nuts on the power steering lines on my loyale fused themselves to the lines and the lines twisted off when I tried removing them. The flare with O-ring thingy on the end isn't anything I could reproduce. If they had come off right, they would have threaded right up to the EJ22 lines. Should I cut the ends off of both the pump lines and the rack lines and use a regular double flare union to patch it together? Or should I see about getting new lines for the rack?

You're in washingotn, so I assume that the car isn't rusted out? There's a bit of body flex, but nothing bad enough to crack the windshied on my loyale. I've twisted the front of the car soo bad that the bottomg end of the steering column where the u-joint is bent, so I've flexed the body to the furthest extreem and the windsield didn't crack. My car straightened it's self back out moments afterward too.

If you have a spare junk tranny sitting round, you can use a torch to cut the input shaft off. It's the perfect alignment tool. I welded a ring onto mine so that I could pull it back out of the disk easier.

It fit in fine and seems to work properly. It had 6 springs in the hub instead of the 4 in all my others? little odd. I'll see how it does when I get the engine running.

Engine mounts: EJ22-EA82 Mine lined up in the stock holes in the crossmember, but they don't sit flat on the crossmember because the metal of the mount is larger than the flat area on the crossmember. I'm going to cut the mount back some to make it sit flat. Oil pan on EJ seems to stick down further, like mabe 1.5 inches. I'm going to have to build a hefty skid plate to counter that.

I went for it. The warantee excludes abuse and off-roading, but hey if I wash the mud off how can they tell? I can smoke 1 a year and keep getting free ones. I'll update this with a quality report in a few months.

Good enough to last or cheap junk. I'm going to be running an EA clutch behind the EJ22, and I could get one for 30 bucks for the disk. How fast will I smoke it?

Since when did EJ22's have a tendancy to crack between the cyls? That's the first I've heard of it.

But did some testing before I did. My motor floats the valves at 6.8K rpm, but that's with a bent rod and other "issues". For anyone who doesn't know, this is the engine that went under water at 4k rpms and was able to drive the car out of the woods after I got the water to leak past the rings into the oil. After I get the EJ22 into place and running, I'll tear this one apart and check the damage. should make for good pictures. The anti-seize and grease that I used when I put the tranny in made for easy removal.

ANy restrictions in the exhaust?