WoodsWagon

I found it! took forever to find it, I knew I had seen it before: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/237066 Is that the look you're going for? I'm sorry, we really shouldn't be busting your balls over this, but you have a remarkably clean car. It's in amazing shape, and to see it molested with a body kit would be horrible. Lowering is ok, someone mentioned adjustable struts out of an 86. I have a set, they use bolts to adjust the spring landing. I am not dissing you for wanting to lower it. Just don't get fiberglass and viynal grafics involved. Please.

Unfortunately for you, you have run across one of the sites on the internet that is full of car enthusiasts that refuse to pander to the popular culture of ricing out your car. That is why i come here. I also visit SOHChonda for the same reason. Engine and suspension performance come first, sound systems and body kits a far second. Realize that body kits will gain your car nothing, and if you think it will get you chicks attention, you wouldn't want the kind of chicks it would attract. The airodynamics of the EA82 subarus (XT's not included) kinda suck. Putting 150 pounds of swoopy fiberglass on it will not help. The car can only do 110 on a downhill anyway. If you don't want to adress engine performace (He has a spfi EA82, so anyone talking like he has a turbo is misguided), go for a badarse sound system. The trunk is beautifly empty: fill it with amps and subs. Do high quality work, so it doesn't sound like a rattling tin can, and blow people away. I have had cars pull up behind me and the sound made my rearview mirrors shake. Tint the windows a bit, and keep the exterior the same. People will have to look around a bit to find the sourse of the bass and will notice more.

Camber is easy. See the two large bolts that hold the strut to the spindle on all the corners? Loosen the nuts on them and one of the bolts is cam-shaped, so that as you turn it, the spindle tilts in or out. Make it so it tilts in. Caster is non-adjustable on these cars, so you don't have to worry about it. Toe is the biggest tire wear problem. If you drag your hand across the tire surface, from inside to outside and the other direction, and feel sharp edjes on the tread, you have a problem. the tread will look like this /l/l/l sawteeth.

It would be a lot less of a PITA to swap in used origional engine and tranny. The mechanical side of the EJ22 swap is easy, the wiring side is a biotch. It all looks simple in theory, but when you have the 3miles of wire in your hands, and it is all interconnected, it sucks.

out on my coast, we were deprived of Pugeots. My parents had 2, both diesels, but those are the only ones except for a mint mid 90's one that I've seen. Seriously, I've seen more VWbugs than peugot's, and ya'll know the way rust works on them. So be good to us easterners and hoard all the rims you see, don't let them get recycled. That way we can pick some up when we travel.

The idea of hooking up NOS or some other performance inhancing device to the shift button knob doesn't tempt you enough to keep it? In my memmory, which is often foggy, the pushbuttons have a roll pin that holds on the knob. all other knobs are threaded. So you would have to swap the shift linkages and shift lever to open up other knobs.

1986 GL=silver, dark blue interior 198? Touring wagon=red, brownish interior 1992 loyale light blue, light blue interior 1992 legacygreen, tan interior

Main problem with removing heatshields= surrounding rubber componants deteriorate faster. So if the steering rack boots or the halfshaft boots aren't protected from the radiant heat of the exhaust, they cook and tear. Other than that, don't worry. Btw, I think it was an EA81 wagon that torched a field and forest in montana this fall. The cat lit the grass after they got it stuck, and the fire melted the block and tranny, which flowed down hill.

Dam! I would be swearing up a storm if that was mine. Anyone else thinking about a roll cage for their wheeling rig? 70 miles home? my god man, you are insane!

you want to ask him for me? I'm not a member of legacy central, so I can't contact him. The board says JECS on it and it has a Jecs/Motorola chip right next to the 28pin bay.

I have seen that car in person. It was at the Owl's head transportation museum in Owl's head maine. They had an exibit on woody cars and had that in there too. Yes, it was just as ugly as it looked in the pictures. If anyone is up in the Rockland Maine area, the museum is a kickass place to visit. Once a month they take out their antique airplanes and do an Airshow. Lots of old car meets and auctions there too.

Actually, it looks nothing like the 90 ECU. It's a single main board job, with a heatsink with 3 power transistors and a couple of IC's running parallel and sticking up on the same side of the board as the yellow connector bus. keeping the yellow connector at the bottom, the main set of IC's are in the upper left quarter. the 28pin landing port for a chip is in the far upper left of the board, again with the connector facing down. kind of remarkable the difference in construction between the years. the sticker on the ECU says: Q7 22611 AA932F JAI8000 RL8 2514 if that helps. Having the 400 whp chip would help, seeing as i'm planning on shoving some boost down the throat of this poor motor.

Check the thread in the meet&greet section. Join the fun.

Mason, NH. 20mins from milford NH or Fitchburgh MA. Right now I'm driving a red honda civic hatch with hippy stickers with a reckless disregard for life. In the spring, my lifted wagon will come back to the road.

I tested the winch out today, worked well enough... for a bit. The bumper is plenty strong, and I got a hook and bolted it on for snatch block action, but the winch motor needs work. i was using heavy duty jumper cables to power the winch motor, and they were getting hot. The two terminal posts that go into the motor got hot too. Actually they ended up glowing, but anyways, it needs more attention. But the rest of my setup worked great, it held the car most of the way up my sandpit wall all evening, so it passed the stress test. I need to get my second battery hooked up now. The one battery is taking a beating with the amps the winch is pulling.

absolutely amazing. My touring wagon, which has sat for years, then got messed up right before I picked it up, started first try today. It has a blown headgasket, because the oil and coolant became one in the pan, I think because the guy I bought it from used ether to try and fire it. I figured it was donefor, but I threw a battery in it for shiz n' giggles, poured a little 2stroke gas down the throat, and it fired right up. First try. Threw it in drive and moved it further into the woods. It was great. I didn't want to run it too long because coolant doesn't lubricate too well, but I needed to put it farther in the woods beacuse our town has a one unregistered car only rule, which I already exceed.

I took the cover off of the 92 legacy ECU this morning and noticed that there is a taped over base for an older memory chip to plug in. I'm wondering if it is a spot to put in a prom chip for some purpose by subaru? Has anyone noticed this before? Is it a spot for a chip for the turbo model? I'm curious.

Your valve stem seals might be failing, which would be the next cheapest after PCV valve failure. Since it happens under high vacuum, it could be sucking oil past the stem seals. Or the rings. unhook and plug (intake side) the PCV valve for just one run and see if it still smokes.

Right hand drive legacys, often postal legacys have a 2L motor in them often. It has some parts, mostly ignition, that are unique and are hard to get(they have to be imported and you will b e charged body parts. So check the engine size and configuration before you buy one. Limp mode is a good thing, it's when a sensor goes bad and the computer puts the check engine lite on and substitutes a value. I have seen a legacy in "limp mode" haul past me while i was holding 90, so they do not really limp. Auto's generally hold lower rpms on the highway, the final reduction is not as high. both can come with cruize controll.

You couldn't assemble it yourself on the weekends? I mean, 2years of weekends can get a lot accomplished. What tranny are you trying to put on the engine?

Th roof will have an obvious step up right above the b-pillar. It will stay stepped up to the back of the car. The hatch is taller. If your car is a touring wagon, unlikely, but still, I have one that I could sell the hatch off of.

Rust is the deciding factor for me. If the body is good, everything can be replacedcheap enough that it doesn't matter. If it is rusty, and I'm talkin pieces falling off, then it may be the end.

Looks like an eaton charger. I've been doing a fair bit of research on supercharging having aquired a M62 off of a buick 3.8l, so I may be able to give help, but as grossgary said, a cry for help is not much use without knowing what help is wanted.

I see what your saying, but when a car is in a slide on ice, nothing is pulling. It doesn't matter if it is no wheel drive, countersteering is the only way to get it to regain static friction. The key to countersteering sucessfully is to have the slipping wheels speed matched to the ice. romping on the gas, FWD, AWD, or RWD will make things worse, esp. with FWD. it will not pull the car, it will just make the posibility of your steering wheels hooking up more remote. Steady gas is best. Even when people had RWD cars, you weren't supposed to drop off on the gas. So keeping the back wheels going near the speed they were when they broke loose was important. Awd gives you the benefit of keeping the front wheels speed matched too. But needless to say, FWD, RWD and AWD skids will feel different. Some may feel better with one skid over another, AWD is sometime scary because the WHOLE car is sliding, not just one end, but it makes it more predictable vs. FWD where the front will slide just about anywhere it wants to. RWD skids, while often intentionally done because they are fun, can get out of controll fast too. I have hit more than one embankment head on because of fish tailing out of controll in pickups. It's all a matter of feel.

Assuming he has the title, it doesn't matter who thinks they own the car, he does in the eyes of the state now. For the dealer to "lose" the car is negligence. They must have filled out a work order when you requested a service, so they knew that the car was on the property. It is their responsibility to protect it at that point. Had one of their tecks left a lit cigarette in it and it burned to the ground, the loss would also be their responsibility to compensate. Expect to have to fight for the value of the car unless it is found. If it was an inside job, the cops should be all over the place. Call the cops as soon as posible and if the dealer doesn't want to cooperate, ruin their reputation in the local paper.