WoodsWagon

Dealer techs don't replace the bolts. I'd say, if you loosened all the bolts back to their factory specs, then followed the correct sequence, you'd be fine. I don't know what the final torque value is, but it feels like more than 80 foot lbs.

WHat was that about needing a jeep for big tires?

THere's two coolant temp sensors under the intake on the passenger side. One of them could have sprung a leak. Sop up what's on the block, then watch to see where the coolant is coming out.

What about the steering U-joint? Or do these have the ragjoints? I'd see if that was jammed or torn. *edit* Sonafabish, I feel like a fool. Didn't notice the second page. Oh well, it was the right part.

Oh, yeah, and you could start by stripping the carpet out of the brat. It sucks welding the body and having the carpet catch fire. Take all the carpets and insulation off the floorpans.

Seriously, don't bother going to the 10-12k guy. Do you want this to look like the ford in the shed, or could it be rougher? The guy you talked to will do a professional, slick looking, show quality job. Doing it closer to half rump roast would make a vehicle that will generate plenty of comments and still be able to be beaten on without remorse. I think there's a sami frame in the J/Y. Want measurements?

As a guy who's been around the board for a while, I can say that the contacts are a often recurring problem. So I'd get my local high school or tech school auto shop to put new contacs in the soleniod. The contacts burn out. The easiest way to tell is if you turn the key to start, listen for a click under the hood. Every time you turn the key, you should hear a click under the hood. My dad thought it might have something to do with the clutch when his car started randomly not starting. He'd turn the key, nothing but a click, he'd push the clutch in and out, the car would start. Shows how supersiticions get started. I replaced the contacts, and the problem went away. My car, I've had the same problem, but it's that the contacts are getting turned by the starter cable. The contacts aren't anchored into the solenoid body well enough, so they rotate and don't connect well.

It's shims. Each of the valves has a "bucket" that goes over it and it's spring. In the top of each bucket, between it and the valve is a quarter sized disk. This is the shim. The way to adjust them is to measure the lash with the cam in, then subtract the specification from that, then add that number to the thickness of the shim and get the right size shim. I only know this because they fell out of my mom's engine when I had it appart. it took awhile to figure out which shim when where.

#1 what model and year is it? #2 finding a used seat is easy, DON'T BUY NEW #3 Auto salvage, auto recyclers, used auto parts look in the yellow pages of your local phone book.

I'm running one roller rocker head and one non-roller head on my EJ22 right now.

Did you push the pedal all the way to the floor? It's not how hard, but how far you push it that can trash the seals in the master. It's rare, but it can happen. I'd look more for a twisted or kinked hose running to one of the calipers or a misinstalled bracket.

well, if they tore down the engine, they got rid of any evidence that you could have used against them.

Ding! Ding! You are a winner! The steering column to rack coupler was siezed something fierce. Only one of the directions of movement of one of the two U-joints still works at all. The other 3 directions are siezed so that it take serious effort to move them at all.

Hmmm. I would have thought that would be a more bind and release style drag, but if it seemed steady on yours... I should pull it off and see what it feels like.

I've run on 1 quart before. Total. So being 2.5 qts low won't starve the engine. They may have introduced debris into the oil passage when they removed the heads. Another thing to consider is the cams and their bearing caps have to be removed to pull the heads on the DOHC's. So if some "flat rate shortcuts" were taken, the bearing caps may not have been put on in the same order, even though their placement is stamped in at the factory. Either of these could have caused the failure. They were the last ones in there, they removed and replaced the very part that seized, and claiming that it was 1.5qts low was what fried it is slimy.

92 loyale 4" BYB 235/75r15 BFG All-terrains D/R fivespeed 1992 EJ22. Soon to be 199? EJ25 built out of 4 engines 1995 legacy brighton KYB GR2 outback struts EA skidplate 205/70R15's 9.25" clearance to the crossmember

The 95's have the black and green connectors under the dash like the OBDI cars, so I don't know if you need a scan tool neccecarily. Borrowing an OBDII scan tool would be better though. I vote temp sensor too. If you give it a shot of gas on the airfilter, it will probably start right up. Your gas millage will suck too. The temp sensor is under the intake manifold on the passenger side, You will see a 1 wire sensor, and a 2 wire sensor with a redish brown connector on it. It's about 34bucks.

This is what i'm talking about too. I shift in and out of low range without any bad noises or resistance at anywhere up to 50mph, in any gear. It's way harder to shift in and out of 4wd than it is to shift from lo to hi.

Had that happen on my EJ22. $600 into rebuilding the engine, ran great, but appanently lean on #3 injector. Smoked the cyl and a valve, put a spare head on, smoked that valve too, then figured out it was running lean. one little injector can really ruin a well built motor. That sucks bad man.

1.5:1 low is shift on the fly as far as my experience tells me.

I'm not seeng a 2.2 litre badge on the back, but I hope the car has one in it to turn those. Looks awesome. How much rubbing under flex?

Aside from our little pissing match going on here, In the northeast, you often don't have a choice about running covers. The heads on the 10mm bolts have rusted to the point you can't turn them, the bolts are seized in the brass inserts, and everything is jammed together. It's not just EA82's, it's the EJ's too. By the time you have the covers off, it's not worth saving the pieces. I have skipped the t-belt on my EJ22 hammering snow plow piles. That is one skip out of 100's of off-road trips, mud holes, river crossings, fields ect. I am putting covers on my next engine however. I had to collect parts from 3 other engines to get one set of covers.

XT6's have electric fans, right? With the temp rising to almost overheat, then dropping back suddenly, does that coencide with the fans kicking on? I'm wondering if the fan-thermo switch is going bad, and not kicking the fans on untill it's overheating. Try hotwiring the fans to run continuously, then drive the car in the same way that was making it overheat. If it doesn't, well there's your problem.

Having hoses collapse when you rev up the engine will cause overheating on the highway. There are very loosely wound springs that you can put inside the hose to hold it open. I have some of these in the upper and lower hoses on my EJ22 swap because the hoses have a tendecy to kink. You would only need to do the lower hose, as it's the one that the pump is sucking through.

Yeah, the old "morning sickness" of a failing rack. That's what I thought of when the no-power steering symptom went away mostly after I drove it a bit. It's only happened twice now though. First when it was 2 miles into a drive, the second time right off the start, then going away within a mile. The steering has felt a bit heavy since we got the car. It's not torque bind or a failed CV because it's an even sticking. No grabbing, bound spots, or jerking, just even stiffness.