Logan K

Ok thank you!

But is it nessicary to maintain a direct power wire to the fusible link box in addition to have a fused wire directly to the battery?

Do I keep the wire that goes to the fusible link?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/117929-h6-100amp-alternator-on-ej22-swap/ Looks like this guy (obviously different application but same idea) did a big wire to the battery and left his stock power wire as well. But is that necissary?

Do the 4 inch SJR lift. Any of the suspension lift stuff for these cars makes the CV axle angle way too extreme and you'll feel like your driving a brick down the road. Lots of guys daily drive 4 inch lifts with minimal problems.

So I have been running the Maxima alternator in my roo for about a year now, pretty happy with the results. My one concern is that I am still using the factory power wire from the alternator to the junction box/fusible link holder thingie. I am adding a winch, inverter and various other gizmos which will result in more draw on the charging system, and that little wire seems to be a weak link in my mind. Can I run a power wire directly from the alternator to the battery with a inline fuse and leave the wire that goes to the junction box alone? Can i run a bigger wire directly to the box and get a higher amperage fusible link? Am I worried about nothing? Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

Google these numbers, or take them to a different parts store and have them interchanged. Should still be available from dealer if you want a guaranteed fit. Output shaft seal: 80673 5200 Front right axle seal: 80673 0031 Front left axle seal: 80673 0032

you can take the 4wd shift lever out, put it in the vice and bend it a bit.

If you made a kit to adapt toyota IFS to a subaru front end I would buy it!

Even if you get an XT6 pressure plate from your local Subaru parts department, when you open the box you find a VALEO pressure plate with the same part number as the EA82. And no, they dont take returns. Learned that one the hard way...

where can you still get MOOG ball joints for ea82? havent been able to find them. Been using the TRW brand which is made by the same parent company as MOOG, but I've always noticed quaity differences between the two..

what is the renewal cost? Maybe some of us could chip in via paypal? I think its a good very resource to have that EJ swap guide on the web.

I write service professionally, and have used RO writer and Mitchell both extensively. Neither are perfect, both quirky, often less then user friendly. Takes a bit of time to master all the odds and ends of either. That being said, parts catalog integration seems to be much better with mitchell (napa, carquest, Worldpac, ect). Pick your poison!

If your turning bigger tires then stock, 4lo is absolutely necessary. Its an easy sway to do. I rolled mine over on a steep grade once, got lucky and landed wheels down with no broken window glass

Lets see some pics!

Missing caliper bracket bolt?

Has anyone made a snorkle setup work with the Air meter on a SPFI car? Pics? I searched but couldnt find much that wasnt for a Weber

Yessir, all components that came in the box are installed where they belong to my knowledge. I did have the motor out, motor is back in now but I have yet to drive the car..maybe this lack of weight has caused the control arms to come up and going over a few bumps will even things out. Or maybe I have bent strut towers. Tires did have unusual wear on them before the lift but it was not as apparent visually if there was a camber issue.

Hey guys, I have a 1991 Subaru Loyale that I just finished installing a 4 inch Sjr lift on. Everything seems ok but the front wheels seem to have a lot of positive camber. I installed the strut tower spacers properly according to how they were labeled. Anyone else experience this? Im wondering if something is bent/broken/worn out and I'm not seeing it. Saw another car on craigslist a few months back with the same lift and looks like the same problem so maybe this isn't unusual? I don't want to ruin my new Swampers! Thanks.

I just finished a 5-speed d/r swap on my loyale, its an easy job even for a half-brain wanna be mechanic like me. You will need some new interior pieces, I pulled my trans and everything else I needed from nw auto recyclers in lake Stevens, payed somewhere around 120 for the trans if I remember correctly. Totally worth it if you plan on running big tires.

I have the crossmember removed presently (am in the process of swapping from s/r 5speed to d/r 5speed. no I did not change the pilot bearing, reason being the clutch is actually relatively new and the pilot bearing is in excellent conndition, im just changing clutch+pressure plate out since im in there already and had the parts sitting in the garage. My guess is that im just not going in at the correct angle, the tranny jack im using is made for fullsize truck or larger applications and the little 5 speed just rolls around on the plate

Went and got another clutch kit, an exedy brand one that is for the ea82. Came with the alignment tool, I used it, got the clutch installed properly (at least I assume)....the trans still refuses to slide in. I am completely lost. Done clutches on other vehicles and never had this kind of problem. I can get the trans to go onto the two studs at the bottom of the bellhousing but I can't get it to slide far enough in to thread nuts on both sides. Shook it side to side, up and down, pried on it from various angles, hit it with a hammer, cussed at it, spit on it. Now I'm laying here in a puddle of Copenhagen, gear oil and blood and am no closer to getting this thing in. There is no logical reason I know of as to why it cannot work. The clutch slides onto the trans splines when its out of the car, but it will absolutely NOT go in when the clutch is installed. At this point I'm just ranting I guess, maybe I will try what miles suggested and install it with the pressure plate loose.

Subaru's "clutch kit" does not come with an alignment tool...just a pressure plate, clutch and throwout bearing. And once you get the Subaru packaging off, turns out its just a Valeo clutch that I could have gotten at work for half the price...needless to say im not pleased. Regardless, sounds like I need to pull the flywheel back out and take it to the machine shop. Does anyone know what the difference in specs between ea82 and er27 flywheel is? And on a different note, can I use the xt6 pressure plate with ea82 clutch? Thank you for your help I really appreciate it!

So am I going to need to swap flywheels? Has anyone had experience running xt6 clutches with 1.8 flywheels?

Im swapping a D/R 5speed trans into my Loyale, read on here somewhere that the Xt6 clutch was a more robust unit and since I'm planning on running bigger tires and pushing it pretty hard I went and got a new OEM XT6 clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing from Subaru. Put clutch and pressure plate on, now I can't get the shaft on the trans to slide back into the engine. Am I just being a ding-dong and not pushing hard enough or is the spline count on those clutches completely different and I bought the wrong thing? Trans seems to be more or less in the right spot, its on the two studs at the bottom of the engine and the top of the bell housing looks to be level with the motor. I'm lost!