WJM

Due to a slight oversight...the $187 DP price is w/out the O2 sensor bung.... The problem has now been corrected...but the price has increased to $199 for each Downpipe. :-\ But, its got everything now! The check from us was sent to TWE yesterday, and TWE is gathering materials an is going to start production as soon as the check gets there. Tizzle, I will be calling you today. Marck and snotrocket: Ive got your payments and I have your invoices printed. Once they get here, all i will need is payment for shipping it you two are all done!

about 3 years ago. Ive got to pull the trans to change the clutch...so why not install an RX D/R FT4WD one? its got a S/R FT4WD trans in it no.

Woops. one nut left on the trans...

3.70+1.196 low range reduction=4.4252 final.

the freaking trans wont come out of da RX!!! Its stuck on the engine!!

...the Saga begins! the RX trans is in the process of comming out...thats easy. Whats hard is getting the pedal box out of both cars and swaping that...and getting the trans out of the wagon...the extra 'expense' of having to take the axles out...the RX has no axles.

soemthing like that but with an IHI flange.

Yup. Search the threads for "high performance header"

I dunno....let it sit overnight? Either way...the 24hrs will be hard and Im not taking a chance...it it doesnt slip a bit this morning or not...the trans and stuff is gonna be swapped. the NAPA reman clutches are CRAP. I've hated this one since day one. Maybe thats why they are discontinuing them and phasing them out. the NEW napa clutches are just the factory ones in the NAPA brand name boxes. The XT6 one....its got FHI all over it, and looks the same as if i got it from the dealer. Even the pilot bearing came in the FHI box. Dats da chit!!

Thats what RX Dual Range is for.

Many many autocross launches+hard driving+14 PSI+lots of race launches=TOASTED CLUTCH! FINALLY that POS NAPA Reman clutch gave up! It took me racing Pleiades an a for fun autocross style launch to toast it. I wont even hold under stock boost now. OMFG!!! This thing PULLLLLSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! To no end...well 5300 RPMs with 14 PSI. At 5300, no power, detonation. Gotta TUNE THE DIZZY AGAIN! Me need DIS.... OK...time for XT6 clutch set, Lite Flywheel, and RX trans! D/R baby!!

The check is in the mail. They will start building tomorrow. Tizzle, I will call you tomorrow!

what do you guys think of the gearing in the US 2.5 RSs?

Yeah, them turbos are tempermental. the engine we really professionally installed in pleiades' grassroots challenge RX....has all NEW OE SUBARU parts and freshly redone heads...Delta cams and all....its got a perminant miss on cyl #4 at idle all the way to 1500....!?!?!? This shortblock was the best looking and best runing one when it was pulled. Now...the engine in the turbo wagon...came out of that RX...looked TERRIBLE! heads that were on it was warped all to hell, poorly done headjob...overheated and ran with a block headgasket. When i put it in the wagon...i took shortcuts and used regular NAPA stuff and improvised all over the place.... That engine runs better than the one in the Grassroots RX. How? We will never know....

beside the exhaust port on the head. the casting "EA82" will be there.... again, nothing around ir under it...gen 1 Line under EA82...gen 2 BOX around EA82...Gen 3.

you just took over the top mad scientist position....I am now second. :-p

Time to chime in on Gen heads... baccaruda's description is correct. The SUBARU EPC (electronic parts catalog) has the listing for the 5 generations of heads....they supercede eachother....and the Gen 3 part numbers are at the top....but even THOSE are superceded....that means there is a gen 4 head. ive not seen one, but according to part number supercessions and so on info...it means I can get you guys a "Gen 4" head. I'll do some more research this morning on it.

DOH!

Along with the rest of the car. 2000 2.5 RS Sedan, Blue Ridge Pearl 95000 miles EJ251 engine...SOHC/MAP (no MAF!) 5 MT in really good condition...needs new struts and rear wheel bearings...otherwise its cool as can be. Its already got a Borla header, high flow cat and pipe, and a Stromung Cat back. its da BOMB! Stock everything else tho. Was a northern car...but no rust on the body at all! Also....got a 22B replica wing. I like it. others dont My sis loves it. HAHAHAHA! Anyhow...back to stressing over what to do about the bearings... BTW: got my MBC for the GL-10 today! 14 PSI here I come!

run MOBIL 1 SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL 10w30!!!! I cannot stress that enough! these turbos run HOT and is way more stressful on oil than N/A ones...use the Mobil...makes TONS of difference in engine and turbo life. Also, i cannot stress enough about engine COOLING. Use a the 2 row radiator and install a 180 deg t-stat ASAP. Put in fresh coolant and DO NOT USE FRAM OIL FILTERS! NAPA/Wix and the OE's are best...puroilator as well. under normal driving...you can drive the Mobil with a good filter 5k miles and its fine....ive done it many times. Althought 3k is recomended...for dino oil. if you HAVE to use non synth...use the Castrol GTX in 10w30....and chage every 3k. If you do that...and run PREMIUM FUEL in it...it will last forever.

Ah.....

Straight rolling...it seems neutral...if a teeny pushy...under gas it will loosen up suprisingly....in its current state...level. With the stiffer springs it was looser...but not a drifter loose. In the wet is pushes bad...this i believe is due to the very shallow tread. The negative rear...is at most 2.0 deg...at its lowest possible squattage...i dont that would be 'exsessive' considering the nature of these tires...the sidewalls are kinda soft, they like to roll. Ive not been driving it hard since the brake line install, as i am waiting for something to break while going gently with all the other changes I've had....i need to empty all the loose stuff out and go flog on it sometime today/tomorrow and see if the lines have indeed changed the bias. What is annoying is that I cannot change the toe on the rear. My plans are to go with 300 lb springs rear before the 24 HR autocross...and the fronts will remain the same...but some new KYBs will be installed.

Ok....brake bias. car level...enter turn, hard braking...car pushes. car lower in rear...enter turn, hard braking...neutral... car REALLY LOW in rear...enter turn, hard braking...LOOSE! DRIFT! CORRECT! GAS! ok...i jsut drifted the corner. The strange thing is...the lower it gets, the more TOE IN and more NEGATIVE camber it gets...so..it theory, the lower, the tighter....not loose. Supposidly, lift it, it gets loose. Not the case. here is what Im tihnking...bias is changed when the car pivots front to rear...less brake rear as the car tilts forward...and vice versa....thats what the stock proportioning valve does...right? is this true? I have had this happen. Also, installing stainless lines on the front only...is that going to create more front brake than front? Maybe its time to redo the brakes, split them F/R and install a valve...

What is the outside diameter of the throttle body? or any of the later EJ SUBARU TB's for that matter... these have MAP sensors, no MAF...and the hood scoop is right there...ive seen this done before. Skip's done it....Cone on TB and hood scoop cut out. the only filter I have is one that is 3" ID. Thanks! WJM