WJM

205 is the "world turbo EJ20" and its the US spec WRX engine - open deck. the 207 is the version 7+ STi engine. It IS semi. Same as the 257 block...just less displacement. When they moved from the GC...they dropped the 20G for both lines - WRX/STi - and gave the STi a new block, the 207. Semi closed. Good for about 400-450 hp. The WRX got the 205, good for 350 MAX. I heard stories that it had something to do that ppl tohught i was not right that you could buy a cheap rump roast WRX and hop it up to be faster than an STi on the stock engine...so they changed that. BIG time. Now the STi is faster unless you do an engine swap in a WRX. 207 is semi.

EJ20G/22G is closed deck. EJ207/257 is semiclosed. All the rest are open deck.

Use 5w or 10w 30 castrol GTX oil in the subies. If turbo or newer engine (less than 100k miles), use Mobil 10w30 synth.

Heat shields? What are those? Get rid of them.

Rarely do the EJ25x's have headgasket issues. The EJ251 SOHC engine is a sound engine. Ive not had a problem. Ive also got an EJ25D (the DOHC version, phase one) and its clocked up 190k+ miles with no issues at all. Go with the EJ251 for off road. The EJ20G is a closed deck engine, good for 400 hp on stock internals. But its powerband is NOT good for off road...read power come son at 3k+. Power on the EJ251 is there around 2k.

Pulling the engine will certinly make the job easier. Plus you can tear the engine down to the block and do a proper engine reseal while you are at it.

well, i got shafted, and i got tired of the mess, so i no longer work at folgers. the TWE thing will continue. the oil cooler adapters...our suplier is getting crewed over by the ppl who supply them... i have received 4 of them...and those have shipped. otherwise...im out. contact pleiades about the adapters and TWE stuff.

I dont really care what anyone says, it can be done, it has been done...I wont be doing it for some time, as I have the RS to play with. Im going to learn alot with susp setups on it and stuff. I am going to wait for new technology to be created for teh EA82's....in time the MS/DIS stuff will be cheaper and more known, so then it will be more easy to install and tune it. I simply dont ahve the time to screw around with that stuff. The suspension i can get made professionally and it will be CORRECT. Koni coilovers. The bushings can be had easiy, and lots of other things are compatable with the EJ's, pads/rotors are easy to come by....the rest is a matter of bolt up that has not been explored yet.

Here is the pics of that I have...and I want to trade it for a wingless or 2.5 RS coupe wing. ofcourse, its BRP and a 2000 RS. Wing Pics!

Are not those items in my list as well??? :-p

The rear are 20MM sway and 250 springs. Im 20th!

That is actually a campaign for that. Will cost nothing in theory for the dealer to do it. They send the ECU off to get it reflashed and you should have a turn-a-round of 4 days at MAX...could have back in 2 days tho.

Can you feel the engine missfire? it could be an overactive knock sensor. Does the engine missfire all the time? or only when you get low on fuel?

The GL-10's fastest run before the track cooled and the tired flatspotted/chorded like mad was 31.5xx.....but another unofficial run was 31.333. It needs GOOD NEW R compund tires, thats ALOT of time there. Otherwise, the rest of the suspension is great...just needs to be stiffer in springs a little and alot in dampening. NEEDS a Viscous center diff...possibly an LSD front, as I was always lifing the inside front tire and smoking it quite well. The car is stuck an stable unless the tires are cold and unless you've got Rs on the front and street tires on the rear...then its DRIFT SESSION! Fun stuff there. I finally got to drive the STi. 1st one: coilover's over stock struts, STi Group N to mounts front, turbo back exh, khumo MX's in stock size. Car is LOOSE under power and turning the wheel....DRIFT! FUN!! FAST!!! Ran a 30.164 in that. Got to do it 3 times. I was being gentle in turn ins and such...but corner exits...SIDEWAYS! FUN! Second one...crazyhorse on here that has an XT6...sold his WRX for an STi...I drove it one run. Hes made 20 runs atleast by the time he lets me take it for one run...his STi is bone stock except for a cold air intake. Stock tires too. I got out and take it easy...while he's flogging the crap out of the car...and I put in a 29 or 28? .600....im 1 tenth faster than he, first run evAr in da car! Later on, I drove Tom Hoppe's SCCA nationals prepared car....as the day/night/wee morning/morning progressed...the car went away and more away...i was still quick in it...but I could not get out of the 31's in it....althought I think a did have a few runs that were in the mid-high 30's. Shane drove my wagon....Shane, chime in! I drove his RS. Its faster than all cars listed above. ALL OF YOU TIMES ARE BELONG TO RS! about 3-4am...i flat spotted and chorded the front tire all to F and back....i called a technical as I only had two official runs posted...out of 5. Oh I did run a 33.xxx on street tires. Anywho...i was going to drive the black STi....but it's tires were cooked thanks to Pleiades and his drifting....and i simply could not drive Tom's WRX...its....very....its just set up very strange and I think the 50+ runs on the Falkens effectively cooked them. So....went out and drove Shanes RS...fAstAr!!!!!!!! Its eeeeeesssssss DA bomb! So...make my last 3 runs in the RS...along with severl practice runs...got a 28.942...fastest official. 4th in SM overall. With out the clutch giving up on my last run, i swear I would have picked up those 0.2 secs needed to take the lead.....oh well....Ive got an RS too..... The engine setup is ok....broad and instant power is a key....having the engine pushing 140-160 should be great. haveing the boost up provided POWER, btu only from 3200-5000....stock boost power was from 2300-6000...you do the math. SUspesnion...like I said...stiffer springs and dampers....coilovers a must. NEW R's a key. 225/xx/13-15 would be best. Steering=SLLLLLLLLLOOOOOOOOOWWWWWW. Swap in an impreza rack and pump is possible... the Impreza and STi's are PHENOMINAL in steering...i was at 10/2 on the STi's and the car jsut went wereever I wanted it too...same with the RS and WRX... GL-10....im sawing on that wheel like crazy!! Plus the pump isnot up to the task really....boils fluid and starts cavitating.... Front strut brace would not hurt. Oh, shanes turn!

I DID have a 9.5:1 turbo engine in it before...and dyno'ed it. 140 est crank HP...99.2 at the wheels.

Oh HA HA HA. very funnAy Shan3.

EA82T intake+catless exhaust, smooth'y flowing DP and 2.5" DP back stock internals 14 PSI via MBC stock WRX TMIC small things here and there (NGK racing plugs, timing setup, PCV system redesign...etc....) Skip Lite flywheel XT6 clutch set RX trans+LSD some suspension stuffs....

EVERYONE DUCK! IM GONNA POST!!!!!!!!!!! You can get 220~250 HP on stock internals. With a COMPLETELY stock setup, plus a decent intercooler and some tweaking here and there...and ofcourse the basic intake/exhaust mods (non restictive muffler and cone filter in place of the stock airbox)...you can get away with running ~12 PSI daily and you should be able to get about 130~160 from and average in good condition EA82T engine. you ABSOLUTELY need to feed it Mobil 1 Synthetic motor oil, and KEEP THE ENGINE COOL! 180 deg thermostat and clean the cooling system really well....a larger rad, twin row, would work best. Delta Cam makes a nice streetable cam that really opens these engines up...they also have a race cam as well. TWE is also making a header and downpipe combo for the stock turbo, these units will SERIOUSLY open the engine up for more HP potential. THere has been alot of controversey about how much HP an EA82T can do....most of it surrounding me, as i am shooting to have my GL-10 faster than an STi and remain Street Mod legal (SCCA SOLO 2 class). Which means 260~300 hp. Anyhow...search feature works well, search past articles and feel free to ask any Q's or email any of us.

and this morning the GL-10=power > control. Was fun...until i was in the wrong lane and the ditch was fast approaching. So...time to get back on the suspension part, as its got too much power for the suspension on street tires to handle....and its really pushing it on these older R1's i have. Also, i need to dial in the timing...damn dizzy...i want DIS so bad.

Twas me and my EA82T madness! Seriously...whats going on?

the problem with sellign it and using that $ to build the wagon is....i took out a loan! Id have to pay it off....and that 2k i would put back into paying this other loan off.

Yeah it did.

Oh I know the handling stock vs stock is way el better-o...and your RS is quite fast.... I do know that If the GL-10 is not done....i seriously doubt I'll be there.

I like the GL-10 better than the RS. i was really excited to get the RS....then i drove it home...and i had to put rear brakes on it and replace the left rear wheel bearing and one of the lateral links is bent ever so slightly (granted the dealer did give me $200 to cover the wheel bearing and the brakes)...its got some kind of PIAA non-stock stlye fog lights that shine some ugly yellowish color and are not mounted very solidly, and the brake pedal is pretty mushy as compared to the Wagon...and belive it or not, the struts on the wagon is in better shape than the RS (granted the Wagon has new GR2's front and slightly used Carerra dampers onthe rear)...and i swear the wagon stops quicker. I flogged on the RS last night and this morning...i was suprised that it did handle almost as good as the wagon, certinly the steering response is better, but it takes way more effort to turn the RS than the wagon. (due to higher ratio but same PS pump outputs??) Certinly the sound system is better as well. A/C between both are the same really. I guess the whole "i just bought a 4 year old SUBARU and i already gotta do some major'ish work on it" killed the excitement. its also due for a timing belt in 10k miles. Maybe im just a whinAr, but im not really "into" this car...in less into it than that 2WD 3AT beat up interior is crap DL i had. Well...i did get it for 6100...so I cant complain. With the T-belt replaced, and the exhaust its got on it...and the other stuff fixed now, I could get what it would go for....$8k, if i decide to sell it. Maybe I need some serious psychiatric help because I like my GL-10 better. Maybe...im just some crazy old skoo kid addicted to the kooky old things that no one makes parts for. /venting due to mood=not good.

Because something is wrong with the one that i installed in it the first time. The one in my RX that i am using for parts is KNOWN TO WORK CORRECTLY. Accross 2 different trans and clutch/flywheel combos, the clutch pedal feel and release was NEVER proper. NEVER like anything else. It never released properly and the pedal was hard and difficult to operate. The RX's is proper-proper release, proper feel, proper travel...proper everything! So Im not going to take a chance and ruin another clutch that I paid big $ for just so I can get it done quicker. I hope i can get it done...otherwise I'll have to take the RS... and i might not even go at all.