WJM

It ran. But I put a hole in the radiator trying to shove the mechanical fan in...so, no more of those, now I have to find electric ones AND fix the rad. And on top of that, something is wrong with the clutch. It will not move under its own power. Since the radiator has to come out, 11 more bolts and the engine is out again. So...its coming back out to see whats wrong with the clutch.

Awesome.

My RX is finally nearing running condition again. This morning the engine went back in....but lacking an intake manifold, engine wiring harness and some IC piping. For simplicity, I'll be going with the MegaSquirt, with EVO injectors and a stock throttle body...I was going to go with an AEM, and a WRX throttle body, 16G and meth injection. The Meth will still go on, but later...and I'll be using a TD04L-13G for now. Hopefully....today I'll find the harness, the gaskets for the manifold will come in, and I'll get some other small peices done and it'll fire up and I can drive it home. :banana: :banana:

Cool. Where's PIB? Maybe you, JWX and I can get together sometime and play in the woods when i get a stock'ish RX running again. JWX has a hatch...we should convince him to lift it and put some real engine power in it.

That much power in an RX is fun.

Dude, awesome! Where at in GA/ATL area are you? I'm in Duluth, right across from SUBARU of Gwinnett. (and I work there too)

I had ice on the IC along with some water spray. These gains were noted on the WRX TMIC, STi TMIC, AND the Wair-Water IC.

The head gasket is tq-to-yeild. thats why the procedure has you doing a rain dance around the engine at one point.

I did dyno it. Not one HP gain. However, a 30TQ gain at the wheels. However, with more boost...the HP/TQ gain is more consistant with the IC rather than without.

I cant find mine...crapxor.

I had a WRX and later an STi TMIC on my RX. Then I went air-water from a JDM Celica...now I am installing an Air-Water from a JDM/Auz Legacy RS.

I'll chime in on this... First, as an SOA trained master technician, we have not been taught to replace head bolts unless we see a situation out in the feild that warrants the replacement of them. Otherwise...I've never replaced any. I've done over 20 (that I can count/recall) DOHC HG replacements in the last year, and probably double that many on the SOHC's. In reference to the DOHC headgaskets...I own a 1996 that until 203,000 miles, was still on the original headgaskets. This one had the CARBON-COMPOSITE gaskets like the EA82 and EJ22's get. I drove it until it could not go 1/4 mile before blwoing coolant everywhere. I replaced the HG's with the new multilayer metals and was fine...until 234k. I have cracked the block, so...in the hot summer days, it will randomly overheat. Drive steady state and its not a problem. Stop and go makes the problem happen. Now that its cold, I can daily drive the car with no issues as long as I mind the coolant temps in traffic...90% of the time there's no problem. Anyhow, the reason for the problems is first they went cheap and used the composit HG...well, even EJ22's and EJ18's blow them. Add more TQ/HP and less HG area and they'll blow more often. Next, they went witha cheap metal one. No good. The sealing layers were too thin and brittle over time. Now the 11044AA610's are full multi layer metal, SAME as the EJ turbo gaskets (EJ205/207/255/257). Those engines take a TREMENDOUS pounding, and with stock HG's and headbolts with STOCK factory TQ procedures...take 700 wheel HP (EJ257/255) just fine. Now...onto the SOHC... These leak externally. While the gasket it better and 99.9% of the time do not develop internal leaks...the gasket is metal at the core, but with a rather cheap-ish sealing surface that will leak externally. The updated gasket does not have this problem. Note-you *CAN* use the 11044AA642 (EJ255/257)gasket in place of the 11044AA632.....BUT SOA will not cover that part under warranty. I would only recommend it under a customer pay (external leak with over 100k miles and SOA warranty/customer satisfaction not being involved) situation. As for the head bolt TQ procedure...I use the factory one, but on the last step of going 45*....I instead go 90*. Overall...any EJ engine that was driven while overheating will ensure problems later down the road. Be aware.

Gold 6 spokes FTW.

Mine? Me of course. who else? ROFL JIC front camber plates, custom slotted out more for EXTRA caster. Front shocks revalved and re-fluid'ed'ed'ed for extra rebound and compression, 8k springs. Tein rear coilover system w/9k springs. custom offset bushings for the leading rods for an extra +2.5 deg of caster. All bushings replaced with SuperPro for the A10/A11 chassis. 50.0% cross weight at 1/2 fuel level.

Water....OR....Methanol. NOT for engine cooling. it is for INTAKE CHARGE cooling. In the case of methanol, it does TWO things...COOLS AND INCREASES OCTANE. It is primarily used to make more power, more safely.

No. It is an entirely different system. Comes with a separate tank, pump, control box and nozzle-installed right ebfore the throttle body. Generally the tank and pump are trunck mounted. The control box features the min and max spray points as well as indicatior LEDs to indicate that the system is ready, spraying or low on fluid.

Yep. Oh well. Gotta switch two of mine back as well. I guess I need to call SOA and confirm this as well.

I autox quite a bit. I've got experience in anything but older than 85, Justy and SVX. Anything else and I've taken it thru the cones. What do you seek?

I have an 'injection' kit that can be used for water or methanol. Some people say that the water injection is a band aid for not being able to tune well or covering up other problems. Not the case. The injection is a form of chemical intercooling. Making the intake charge even cooler. In the case of methanol, it cools even more, AND is combustable. It effectively increases the overall octane level of the air fuel mixture, making it possible to produce even more power, more reliably.

On the left, is the FRONT sprocket. On the right, is the REAR sprocket. Here are the pictures. Notice that the RIGHT one has a groove on the back of it. This one denotes that it goes nearest to the rear of the engine. The LEFT one does not have a groove, so therefore it goes on the front. http://wjmrallyesport.com/cranksprockets/DSCF5331.JPG http://wjmrallyesport.com/cranksprockets/DSCF5332.JPG

I went to order the 13018AA000...aka the 85~87 with the pin. NOT AVALIBLE. The part supercedes to 13021AA001. As you can see, that is the piece for 87+ with NO pin. If they superceded it, that means that its the same. But either way....not avalible with the pin anymore. I'll get some pics.

muhuhhahahaha I have the manifold assembly now. Intake that is.

and on that note:

I've got a Time Trials legal roll bar setup that I'll eventually install in my 05 RS for time trials/time attack/hill climbs.

You just dont get it.