WJM

Youd crap in your pants if you drove the STi.

Yeah, what he said. But all the 85-86 GL-10's ive seen has the adjustable head rest and seat height as well.

The interior is noteibly more quiet and more lux. than the GL's. Ive never seen a GL-10 w/out a sunroof....but I have seen a few GL's with Sunroof and Digidash...had carbed engine and 5spd 2wd....it was also a 1986 this one that I used for parts.

Again, no carbed XTs. Yeah, run some good good fuel injection cleaner thru it, like, 3 bottles/cans in 1/2 a tank. Run it WOT as much as you can. :devil: After all, thats how SUBARUs are designed, WOT all the time!

Just got the front struts out...both of them in 5 mins. The right front looks BAD. The spring brok the perch, and the clamp holding it in place was the only thing letting it slip in little increments....no wonder it was sitting an additional 1 inch lower than the other side.... Note: Make perches stronger. Rear suspension out in 15 more mins! Gotta cool off...its still about 90 deg outside and humidity is around 80%!!! *whew*

Well, as we posted a while back...9.5:1 pistons, open intake and exhaust....stock boost....put 99.2 hp to the ground, and a mostly stock 88 RX with 12 psi of boost put 88 to the ground. Now...once I get my mods done...full intake stuffs, cams and full exhast stuffs, it will be dyno'ed and 1/8th mile'd for sure. Note: STOCK TURBO. Pleiades has an RX with light exhaust mods, but with my intake and the Delta cams in it....dyno results are to come soon..... My plans are...again....Spyder with XT6 TB on it, Stock WRX TMIC, stock turbo, a fabbed up AFM to Turbo pipe, Home made high flow (racing style) header and downpipe...3 inch pipe all the way back, no muffler or cats, until i find a 3 inch 3 way cat....ECU and ignition will remain stock....once I find a cost effective turbo upgrade, I will start messing with MS and DIS. Then the HP figures will really start increasing.

Ok....things learned from my low and stiff suspension... 1. Better install a 5 point and better seat, otherwise you will not beable to stay in the seat...later G's will slide you out of the seat, and dips/bumps will certinly have your head contacting the roof.....more dampening force from the dampers would solve most of that...but also increase the later G's a little...better atleast get a 5 point. Its sufficient even with the stock seat. 2. It a little TOO low....needs to be reaised up 10-20 more MM for streetability...otehrwise its PERFECT for track...and 5 more MM up, it would have been perfect for the Dragon. 3. The rear axles find them selves at an angle...while the front are not. Old boots WILL tear up or slip off the DOJ on the rear axles...the inner boots that is. I have not seemed to have a problem with the outer boots. 4. The rear Diff is EXTREAMLY low to the ground. Just as Pleiades. "If there were an ant between the diff and the pavement, it was certinly swished" or something along those lines....he told me that at the Dragon. 5. The stiff springs are too strong for the stock dampers, even the RX ones. We need to find a way to make them stiff enough for a 500# spring. STi stuff would be almost there...they supposidly are good for a 400# spring. 6. Need polyurethane busings in places to reduce bushing deflect...that would further hook it up. 7. As you lower the car, the front toes out *good mostly* and the rear toes in *BAD!!!*. Need to toe the rear out. Research will commence on that sometime soon. 8. Better get WRX bumpstops up front if you do with stock Leone/RX struts. You will need them! Same goes for the rear...but not so much critical on the wagons, with thier own special bumpstops. Sometime in the next 2 days, I will be swapping in a stock RX strut/spring set in lue of the low and stiff stuff. I'll be closely examining the stock parts for stress and damage from the ruff and tumble driving as of late (airborne, bouncing around everywhere, the dragon, etc....) and inspecting for any rubbage of tires onto any of the body work, as I did hear some lately.... Pics to come when i swap the stuff over.

Well said Shane. Since i have figured out about 90% of what it takes to make these cars hook up on the tarmac, its time to work on the power plant now....since I am going to fine tune the other 10% since i won be driving on it anymore...

no turbos here at concord.

EA82 has PLENTY to start with. Closed deck. Medium cast method block. (grid pattern on block idicates so, along with closed deck, that is the sign that the block features both) The block is tough. Ofcourse its not as tough as the EJ207, EJ20G, EJ22G, EJ257....but its still good for 300 or so. Again, the magic recipe for 230-300 hp at the crank..... Delta cams, either 260 or 272. Header. TBE. Either stock turbo for around 210 hp...or for more power, TD04 or larger. Spyderintake, either with the stock TB, or the XT6 TB fitted and the intake port ported out to accomodate the larger TB. Tweaking the timing, run 93 fuel at all times. Synthetic oil, mobil 1, to keep the enigne alive. Oil cooler is a plus. Keep the coolant cool....use a large core radiator. Make sure stock fuel system is clean and fully 100% operational. Stock parts should be good for anything we need....up to 17 PSI, I stongly believe the stock system can handle 17. The cone filter bolted on the MAF/Air Flow Meter. WRX/STi top mount IC, or some other form of IC. Key to air moving in and out of the engine: Smooth flow. Everything need to be smooth and high volume. Stock heads should be fine for 250+ hp. I dont think we can get more than 310 out of them...not enough flow at that point me thinks. Head gasket issue....TQ the head down about 10 lbs more with stock stuff. ive done it, it works. Head bolt studs would be great....stock OE turbo head gaskets from the dealer SHOULD BE USED....copper could be, but I did not have success....but that was my own fault...I did not use proper TQ, proper sealer, and the heads were warped a little too much out of tolorance. There you go, all fo WJM Rallye Sport's secrets for lots of power from the EA82T Yes, the EA engines can make large power over stock. Just need to have the proper parts....and yes, on stock internals. More limitaitions on the pre EA82, and on the EA82 SPFI/Carb due to restricted intake flow into the head...the MPFI and Turbo are 200% better due to two ports for intake. The exhaust is just fine...the HEADER is the KEY for the exhaust....along with the TBE as well. Everyone who thinks 200+ hp from an EA82T is BS, ya'll can shove it. im tired of arguing over it. If I had the little bit of $ it takes to get the TWE header and DP (or if had pipes to bent and weld) and get the cams, and time to do the intake mod on the spyder....id dyno it and we all would see whats really what. If you went and baught all the parts....and already had the engine...you could do this with a $2000 budget. I already have most of the parts. i dont have a larger turbo, or the header and TBE and cams. Ive got everything else. Again, its possible to be done with out large $ spending, and special fabrication processes.

The exhaust port on dual intake ports on the MPFI and TURBO EA82 are plenty big to accomodate 250 HP at the crank. I think the rods and crank are strong enough for that...and possibly to the 300 hp mark. I would be happy to get 250 from the EA82. I really think that the stock pistons are fine...the 87+ pistons atleast...they look to be better designed than the first gen EA82T pistons. Ive got a set of 1 gen and 2nd get. Actually...many sets of each. Anyhow, Jon's idea is pretty mean and nasty after its all said an done...i believe that it should be pushing 200 at the crank...out of stock heads (mostly) with just one intake and exhaust port on each head.... The real key to the EA82T, like i topic'ed on before....is CAMS, HEADER, and TBE (turbo back exhaust)....plus a 3" cone filter bolted on the MAF/Air Flow Meter....and then go from there. The Spyder intake with an XT6 Throttle boby bolted on would also add many ponnies, as well as a good IC setup. I believe those items, with the 677-260 Delta cams, would yeild around 200-230 crank HP from the EA82T. With the 272 cams, which are pretty much racing only, and a larger turbo...say, TD04, 300 would not be so far off.

ok, thanks guys, I will try this out the next time i have time..... I am actually going to switch over to RX spings/struts so the car is more steetable for daily travel....then when it comes to autocross....time to switch back in the brutal stuff.

Exactly. Autocross, track days.

I know about the camber....yeas, I want to keep all 2.5 - 3 deg of negative that I have Its the TOE in that I dont want, I want to toe is out.

Id like to zero the toe...as its in alot. Or get it toed out 1 or 2 deg.

Eh....no good. I want toe OUT and not change the track width.

Anyone?

Lets cast some 4 valve heads for the EA82T. Go camless. Make the ports on the heads HUGE...well, as big as the current EJ engines so we can bolt on the high performance/racing headers and manifolds. Im talking HUGE ports tho, and HUGE valve ports here. MASSIVE FLOW. VF39. HUGE throttlebody. MASSIVELY high flowing custom intake manifold....massively perfected air/water IC, and 4 inch exh from the turbo back. No cats...unless they make a 4 inch one....megasquirt and DIS, anti lag (ut oh, getting expensive now), and....well, some other goodies as well. Um, me thinks good for aobut 450-500 hp.

Dude, thats AWESOME.

Miles, great page. Dut the FT4WD single range came in XT's as well...not just the XT6. Also came in the GL-10s that were optioned for it. 1989 was a big year that the GL-10 wagons got those. The FT4WD S/R trans in my GL-10 right now came out of an 87 XT. 3.70 final. The XT6s are 3.90. Marnix:

i know that here at concord it has to be FWD, and no newer than 1988 or so...so you couldnt use the volvo.

You got it. Thats all of us.

Hey, I want that grille....please.

Again, all very temporary...and yes, mostly it was to test to see how well it keeps me from beiing jumbled around with those stiff sprigns and so much traction that the car has now. Once I get a harness bar made (it will be PROPER and not a decap. bar) everything will be peachy. I do enjoy the feedback and ideas!

ive been wondering on the cheap sleeve coil over idea myself. Seems that it would work. Portaband is the best tool ever invented....well, on of the best for sure!