WJM

ZERO wheel rubbing.

Well, after being a lazy bum...i decided id finish my lowering project. So...its officially done unless something breaks. Here, look! For those of you who will ask...those are springs that are redily avalible and are nowhere near the stock dimensions and springs rates. The car is stiff. The car corners like...like...like....Like Pleiades Legacy GT...but the tires are the limiting factor. It IS a little under dampened...this will get worse since the struts are already qutie used...so I will be looking at a set of OE RX struts front and rear from Folger SUBARU in Charlotte NC. Otherwise, the car handles great so far. Predictable...no sideways action yet tho. I will wait for daylight to really push the limits. Otherwise...its just awesome.

$130 got a complete SPIF car. And $50 more into it, its runs and drives great and its reliable...and i can abuse it, and it keeps on going. Id pass on the heads...unless you have the $ to burn and really really need them for an engine.

Ive had a few of the turbo engines run like crap, until ther were run for a few hours and driven a little gently...and taken on a few all out runs...then they usually purr and behaive properly.

Well, the price difference and performance differences dont warrent the purchase of the 1515 over the 1361 that I can see...so I'll be sticking with the 1361 after my stock of one 1515 is used up. lol

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16246 Just wanted to post in here to get some more attention going... Here is the thread to NASIOC, where the thread for the meet really is...for thos who are too lazy to click one more time. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=548154

Check it out... Window tinting, $100. We had Lighting Mikes out last time, and they do a quality job! This time we will have better food than Hooters...and the girls are promised to looke even better...but i dont see how, as one of the hooters girls last time was just plain hot. Anyhow, a quality subaru get together, come on out! Oh and...the meet is at Folger SUBARU, Charlotte NC. At the corner of Independence and Idlewild.

Cool. I will be taking the front of the engine apart tonight.

Ok, cleaned the front main sela dn oil pump area. Ran at speed on jack stands for a while...it got warm. Then idle'd...Oil just puring from the front main seal. Well, im headed to Folger SUBARU, Pleiades has the front main seal on order for me, and I will be picking up the oil pump reseal kit. And...a temp sensor for a 96 Outback.

No hill holder here...I didnt add that bit of neatness. i just use the hand brake for hills ansuch.

Ok, I think its something in the pedal assy...or the flywheel and clutch set is mismatched for the flywheel recess.

22B is even more rare.

How long did you run the engine after you got it together?

Is there any proven way to flush a rad and it be clean like new or close to it? Ive got the same problem.

Here is that chart.

The XT6 clutch can be fitted with NO modification....just use the XT6 flywheel, clutch, and presure plate.

THe timing not being advanced enough would cause a lack in top end.

the 1989 GL-10 Turbo FT4WD with auto trans had a 2 row from the factory.

Im going to start with the oil pump.

Clean off the grime build up on the axle bearing surfaces, and in the hub. Use some WD40 or similar, and they should slide in just fine.

That was the plan once I get a more quiet exhaust on it...

Well guys, bad news for me. I wont be able to afford to get either the header OR DP...im broke, again. Having 4 cars to deal with, tickets, and insurance on 3 of them...and the DL not selling has put me in a bind. On the positive side tho...as soon as my welder gets here, I will begin researching headers after the TWE order.

Ok...on the fresh installation of the GL-10's new turbo engine...after running for about 300+ miles...there is oil EVERYWHERE on the front side of the engine...the belts are slinging it all over the place...on the hood, on the frame rails, batt...exhaust...everywhere. Just on the front of the engine. Now...I did not replace any seals on reinstall...the cam seals never leaked on the previous engine. The front main seal didnt look leaky...so i left it alone...plus I could not get the cam belt sprokets off... I re-used the oil pump seals from the other engine. I didnt use anything new on that. I think the dipstick tube could use a new Oring...but how could oil be getting out of that? So, its either the cam seals, front main seal, or the oil pump, right? As a note...im running with NO timing belt covers.

isnt that thing missing side skirts?

after a few more seconds of thought....the idea is scrapped. And I wish that GM would have never had any involvement what so ever with SUBARU. Or Ford is not GM. Or Dodge if not GM or Ford...EVER.