WJM

Ok, pipe un modded...one end is 2.75 OD, the other, the yellow end, is 2.75 ID. MAF and 85-86 "MAF" fits right in the ID side...nice and tight. Some ultra copper and it would never come apart. OD to OD is near perfect. I can supply the rubber connector if we go that route. VOTE! Conflict!!! Hits the intake plenum. This is entering the turbo as stright as possible, with the turbo housing and the pipe as stright to each other as possible. Still a conflct at an steeper angle. Ok, no fit as is, and there is no space left for reducer adapter... Ok, im tired, and a little ticked...more fabbing needed. Im going to bed. Me put back together in the morning...

ok, ive got the main pipe. Its 2.75 inches...the MAF (not a MAF really...but OK) outlet on the 85/86 is 2.75 inches. The inlet on the turbo is 2.25 inches. I have found a silicone reducer for that application...its gonna cost ME about $28 to get ONE here..its 19.99 and shipping...eh...need more sources. So...the cost of the pipe is $20...after TV time is done with, i'll make a trip down to the garage with my camera, and take some pics with it somewhat 'fitted' to the RX, and see what kind of mods I need to make to the thing.... Looks like cost might be around $60 after its said and done...just estimating again....eh, the cost is going up.

Actually...ive got the current new one sold...so you have two options...you can have my used one for $20+shipping...OR, if you can wait about a week longer, I will try to get you a NEW one, if I can find one...still for $35 shipped.

I will actually cohse from one of many broken stock headers to start my project...ive got one right here. And I know where one is right off hand. The problem is...the flanges are too small of an ID for what I wanted to do...the ports are 2 inches, the flanges are 1 1/2 IIRC. I was going to do 2 inches, and do a smoth reduction right at the turbo inlet down to the turbo inlet size...

Run Castrol GTX in it. Cant go wrong with that non-synthetic oil. Also, try a 1515 NAPA gold oil filter...its about 50% bigger than stock.

Gas east silicone. I know this. I tried to fix a gas tank with silicone...the silicone melted...i dont know if the same holds true of RTV...

When I get the pipe made, i will know what the final cost as an assembly will be....and with out the filter assy. I know that the adapter and filter will cost me about $45 and tax...but that depends on where I get the adapters, online will be a bit more, but local will be a little less...and autozone and places like that, except for napa, has those things for about $15. The Filter can be had from $20-$25...two styles, the regular cone, or the cone that has additional inverted cone on top for more ait flow. NAPA sells these things at 49.99, while everyone else has the SAME kind (APC usually) for $20-$25...it sucks. At cost to NAPA is over $26!!! WTF??? Anyhow, Im going to do some measuring before work, and see what I can come up with for pre made pipes to reduce pure fabrication...that way it will be less expensive and time consuming. ANd once I get a prototype made, I'll see about making one or two different styles...either w and w/out BOV, or maybe just one style with it.

I aggree with not shutting it down right after driving...the driving that my two turbo cars experince is 50 miles worth of interstate, 75 or more MPH (3500+ RPMs), followed by what I call a cool down...i come off the i state...and on average, sit about 1 min at a stoplight to turn left from the off ramp..then its an easy cruise thru 4 stoplights in slower city-like traffic...than at 10-20 mph cruise thru my little neighborhood...then about 30 more seconds gently pulling into the garage, or into a remote parking spot....so in my situation, i don see the need for one...plus I am always mindful of the issues with turbo temps and what it goes thru everytime i shift, or mash the gas and left off for no real reason. Now for someone who drives on the insterstate, comes off, has an immediate right turn, then into a parking and bam you are there...then i see a real need to let it cool...it hasnt had a chance to!

I know that there is this one that newscooby runs in his WRX...it computes driving time, engine temp i think, and tie sitting idling, and it has a constant display on how long it will run before it shuts off....i think the average is about 45-75 seconds... On a turbo car with no oil cooler, I dont belive in T-timers. The oil just does not get cool only running thru the pan at idle. The WRX's do ahve a cooler...it runs thru the rad. So the oil, in theory is around 180-195 deg. However...temp at the pan on the EA82T is about 220-240....hm. Sit and idle, it will get warmer and stay there no matter how long it runs. Now, Ive got an oil cooler adapter for sale....its $35 shipped....if you want it.

Its a SUBARU. SUBARU drivetrain, SUBARU unibody. So there, its SUBARU. Lets see...i think you mean RX trans..as XTs didnt come with D/R. So...RX+Impreza+Justy=JIXR! (Jicks-er)

although its less critical on the EA82/ER27 combos...just have to make sure you get the right recess for the clutch set for the flywheel you have.

Hey, it works. As soon as I get my welder...I hope things will start rolling. First Ive got to get the GL-10's engine put abck together, and in the car,and finnish messing with the springs and call it done for a while....but I will start working in it, I do have everything out such that I can mesure and get things started....

Ok, this is the filter/adapter plate assy on an 88 RX...meaning, this is what it would look like on a MAF. The flapper stlye would be very very similar...the only differences are the bolt pattern on the plate, and the Flapper is longer than the MAF...but its still the same. This is a stock (although modified for a BOV recirculation tube there) 1985-1986 intake tube. It is shorter than the 87+, so it allows this assy to fit perfectly. You could use the stock 87+ peice there...but i chose the 86 peice from my turbo wagon. it was orginally in the 86, and designed for it...but i found it worked great in my 89 RX, and so now its in my 88 RX. Anyhow, that is the peice that will be replaced with a higher flowing/less resistance metal peice. The stock PCV, and that other little hook up, points will be replicated so that stock components will hook up.

Im heading up to get that valve now....it looks like the head is fine. btw: i still need to find time to get those parts we are talking about.

Adapter plates have been made.

Ok, so i was cleaning up the heads from that engine...and all of the exhaust valves are WHITE...except for cyl#1, it was covered in unburned crap. After hitting it with a wire brush...what do i find? A peice of the valve is burned away!! Spray brake clean around...and it runs out the exh port. Well, there was my no compression culprit...now, i think it all comes together...i tweaked the vane air flow meter, more spring pressure than stock evidently, which caused the engine to run lean lean lean. Too hot, rings gone on #1, and the valve burned as well. It did run a little warm on the Interstate as well...and no wonder I was getting 29 mpg! So, ive got to turn it back before I put the AFM back in. Also...i need to take the valve out and replace it. Gotta find a valve...found one! Oh, its 50 miles away...so I can only get 1/2 the engine put together today. *sigh*

bumpie.... Oh, and since no one seemed to get the hint...when my welder gets here, I am seriously looking into making headers and downpipes, if I can get the flanges and such....

CVs would be the easy'est thing to check...see if the boots are ripped wide open and grease spit out all over the place. Ive never done the fuel flush myself...so your guess is as good as mine. We are here for advice! So no prob!

Ive thought about that. Right now...as soon as my welder gets here...I'll be officially opening 'WJM Rallye Sport' - Performance parts for the EA82T, and Gen 3 cars (1985-1994 DL/GL/GL-10/RX/XT/XT6/Loyale/Leone)

Myxalplyx: Pic to come (today sometime)...the only thing is, is that I do not have the MAF-turbo pipe made up yet. I can post a pic of the air filter assy, and give some people ideas on what that pipe will be like. Marck: No group buy here. Just one at a time as someone needs one. I have designed them, and I will be making them.

It could be Zoombaru if it was in Colorado....

Converting to EA82....well, its debateable...but I say because the EA82 is the best engine to come along before the newer EJxx engines in the Legacy, WRX, and so on....the EA82T (turbo version) is even better. The engine is easy to work on, and easy to maintain. Its quiet (when maintained properly), and operates flawlessly (again, when maintained properly). I belive the noise you are hearing with the engine is some kind of exhaust leak...just a matter of finding it. And yes, the non turbos are quite loud. The hum on the I-state could be several things...tires, CV joints bad, bearings...my CVs are bad in the DL, and it hums/grinds in turns at speed... The fuel pump sound means there is alot of trash in the fuel tank...id flush it out really well, and reverse flush the pump as well. Heck, id do the whole system while im at it as well, just to be sure, and make sure you change the fuel filter as well. Congrats on the SUBARU and welcome to the USMB!

Sounds like a deal. How much for that clutch disc?

some girl that fixed it in 15 mins...? is she on this board???? If not, she better be.

Ok, so who would be interested in an intake setup for EA82Ts? Cost would be $75-$100...includes airfilter, adapter plate, and a new air flow meter to turbo pipe...with all the stock hookups.